Rostra Cruise Control for ST1100

Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
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1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
I have seen posts about Rostra cruise control units installed on ST1300s, but have not been able to find the answers for the ST1100. Besides fashioning a throttle bracket to the carburetor, what needs to be done as far as the speed sensor is concerned? I have read where the ST1300 can utilize a signal coming from the ECU to use as a speed sensor, but the ST1100 doesn't have that.

I appreciate your help.
 

The Dan

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You need a rear wheel kit, it adds magnets and a pickup to the rear wheel.
 
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Sep 11, 2011
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Pearland, Tx.
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97 ST1100 04 ST1300
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8492
I have seen posts about Rostra cruise control units installed on ST1300s, but have not been able to find the answers for the ST1100. Besides fashioning a throttle bracket to the carburetor, what needs to be done as far as the speed sensor is concerned? I have read where the ST1300 can utilize a signal coming from the ECU to use as a speed sensor, but the ST1100 doesn't have that.
I appreciate your help.
I'm in the same boat. I've read where this is done, but not much is really shared as to how.
That's the first I've heard about a rear wheel kit!

As stated, I would appreciate any help! Specifics would be grand.
I would prefer this system to the AudioVox system, but ... I may just have to go with it.
 
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drseth
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Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
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1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
I would love to see photos of the magnetic speed sensor installed on an ST1100. It would also be nice to see a photo of the bracket to the throttle linkage.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
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787
Location
Lexington, KY
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1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
I wouldn't count out the vacuum version. It's installation has been perfected for the 1100 and many members have thousands of trouble free miles. I can see the desire for an electronic version however, just because vacuum is old technology doesn't make it bad technology! Just sayin...
 
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drseth
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
Bike
1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
I wouldn't count out the vacuum version. It's installation has been perfected for the 1100 and many members have thousands of trouble free miles. I can see the desire for an electronic version however, just because vacuum is old technology doesn't make it bad technology! Just sayin...
I have searched for the Audiovox CCS100 unit, but can't find it, except for Murph's Kit, which is almost $200.00. Any less expensive places to buy this unit. It appears they have discontinued manufacturing them.
 
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Tacoma, wa
no, you don't need to include a clutch switch. hooking up one on the 1100 requires a lot of effort to do. the CC1000 doesn't have such a switch and IMHO,it doesn't add much in the way of safety . I installed a rostra last year and didn't. I wouldn't omit the brake connection, though. BTW the signal pick up coil is available from the supplier, but the magnets have to be bought from someplace else..i got mine from K&J Magnets....206 dia. X .201 length( some sort of rare earth magnets) fit nicely into the hex socket holes that hold the rear disc. over 10k miles and haven't thrown one, either! I made a bracket for the coil and attached it on the underside ofthe swing arm(left side) the coil face resides about 1/2 > 3/4in from the passing magnets
 
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Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
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1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
I have searched for the Audiovox CCS100 unit, but can't find it, except for Murph's Kit, which is almost $200.00. Any less expensive places to buy this unit. It appears they have discontinued manufacturing them.
just saw this question today... sorry so late! Murph is the only place you can get a "new" CCS-100. Audiovox no longer has them made with their name on them. Murph gets his from the same place with the same specs as Audiovox used to (Rostra). They show up on ebay on occasion but for a new one murph is the only place I know of. Compared to an MC cruise, $200 is a bargain! I love mine and its one of the top farkles I have. I do a lot of LD interstate riding however so it paid for itself rather quickly with fuel savings and helping to prevent "performance awards" :) YMMV
 
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drseth
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
Bike
1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
Last week I broke down and ordered a Rostra Cruise Control 250-1223, a magnetic speedometer pickup, and a Goldwing GL1500 right handlebar switch to install the cruise control to my ST1100.


I got the magnetic speed pick up today. Guess the Rostra 250-1223 kit will come tomorrow. I have also ordered a Gold Wing GL1500 right handlebar switch with cruise control switches. I also went on the K&J Magnets website to get some washer-shaped magnets to fit under the hex bolts holding the rear disc brake to the wheel, but did not see any in the size or shape I need. If I can find a source of the magnets and brackets to attach the cruise control to the throttle, I may make up a kit. There are six hex bolts on the wheel. How many magnets do I need for the cruise control to work?

If someone has a diagram showing how the Gold Wing Switch wires up to the Rostra, that would be great. I also could use DIP switch settings

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
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1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
If someone has a diagram showing how the Gold Wing Switch wires up to the Rostra...
I can tell you what the wires are to the GW switch. I am not home right now but tomorrow I can look at the section I cut off mine. The GW switch harness is at least 6-8" longer than the stock 1100's wiring. I shortened mine to avoid trying to stuff all the extra somewhere. This is what I recall there being but I will confirm and give the colors tomorrow. There are 4 wires to the cruise buttons. A power in, ground, cruise set/decel and resume/accel. There are also 2 wires that go to the brake light switch (green with yellow stripe and white with green stripe) and two wires that are meant for the GW cruise cancel switch which the ST doesn't have (green with white stripe and the blue wire) these can be completely removed. If you want to figure them out on your own I figured out all the colors with a multi meter that had a continuity tester on it. Once you figure out the power wire the rest are easy.
 
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drseth
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
Bike
1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
I got the Rostra Cruise Unit, the GL1500 switch, and the magnetic speed sensor. I spent about an hour trying to loop the cruise cable attachment to the end of the throttle cable, but it seems the cam lacks the room for it to fit. I am going to cut a notch around the throttle cable end in the morning. I guess I am a little overwhelmed, my first time doing this install. I haven't seen any ST1100 Rostra installations, but many ST1300 installs.

I have a few questions, if someone could advise me: Where do most guys place the control unit? Inside the fairing? Under the seat?

Does anyone have any photos of their magnetic speed sensor, with the mounting of magnets?

Thanks for your help
 
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drseth
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
Bike
1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
One of the ways to attach the cruise control cable to the throttle drum is to use a loop of cable and attach it around the barrel of the throttle cable in the cam. I spent about an hour trying to finagle it in the spot, but it seems there isn't enough room for the cable to fit. I am going to get out my Dremel and notch the barrel so that the CC cable can fit. If that doesn't work, I think I will go to the hardware store to get a wire cinch and attach the cc cable directly to the throttle cable.

Any comments or advice?
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
On the 1100 most of us drill and tap the brass center of the throttle drum then attach an arm to the drum to provide leverage for the cable. I will try to find a picture of what I'm talking about. The pictures I have are from John Oosterhuis who is the pioneer of the most preferred way of doing the CCS-100 cruise install. Even though you are doing the rostra version, a lot of the things carry over, like the connection to the throttle drum. He helped me a lot in my install.
I apologize for not getting you the wiring colors to the gl1500 switch yet, I'll go get those now!
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
I can't find the pics John sent me but if you do a google image search of "st1100 cruise control" it brings up some that might help. PM John and I'm sure he'll help.
As promised here's the wiring colors for the cruise switch

1) WHITE-power in (12v power into switch)
2)Black/yellow stripe-on/off out (turns cruise on or off and allows power to go to other switches)
3) white/blue stripe-resume/accel
4) white/yellow stripe-set/decel

I thought there was a separate ground but the switch doesn't have one.
 
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drseth
Joined
Aug 24, 2012
Messages
126
Location
Moon, VA
Bike
1991 ST1100
STOC #
8654
Thanks for everyone who has provided assistance.

I got it all together, and the cruise control works great. Once up to speed, I press the set button, then it accelerates 2mph, then settles to the speed without surging. I set the gain to the lowest setting, the PPM at 3200 (4 magnets on the rear wheel attached to the disc brake bolts), and the Engine Setup/Timer set to 8 cylinder/low setting. This is the slowest responding setting, which prevents surging. I also had to drill a hole and relocate the CC sleeve 1/4" to remove CC cable slack at the throttle connection.

2013-08-19 12.11.32.jpg2013-08-19 12.12.10.jpg

This photo shows the CC Sleeve bracket and how it attaches to the throttle pulley segment. The CC Cable loop would not fit around the barrel at the end of the throttle cable, so I got the Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel out and removed a U-shaped wedge out of one side of the barrel, which provides the necessary space for the loop cable. I fumbled for a couple of hours trying to get the loop around the barrel, but there is no room for the loop without making space for it. Attaching the loop is the easiest way to connect the CC cable to the throttle. I didn't have to remove the carbs or the gas tank to do this. The bracket for connecting the sleeve I made out of some flat aluminum I had in the shop. I drilled a hole for the screw that connects the bracket to the throttle cable bracket. Disregard the slack and all of the beads crap discussed in the manual. Mount the CC sleeve such that the CC cable has maybe 1/4" slack. The manual discusses having to add slack, since the throttle pull is less than the 41mm it specifies. The difference is supposed to be accommodated by providing slack in the cable, which causes the CC to lag and surge when the CC is applied. Rostra Tech support advised that I had too much slack, so I had to redrill a hole a little farther away on the Cruise Cable bracket to remount the cable sleeve, which removed the slack in the CC cable. I used a screwdriver to hold the throttle open, and a set of large hemostats and a long flat screwdriver to manipulate the loop cable and the throttle cable. Instead of the covers for the bead, I used heat shrink tubing, about 2 inches, to cover the bead, which also helps keep the Cruise control cable from bending and binding, causing the throttle to stick open. I applied heat after taking this photo.

The Gold Wing GL1500 switch was pretty straight forward. I did take the switch apart and reversed the wires on the kill switch in order for it to work properly, as per previous posts. I did have to drill a hole an inch or so toward the middle of the handlebars, since the GW switch is an inch or so wider than the ST1100 Switch it replaces. The colors of the wires correspond to the post by Slasher (Thanks a bunch), and there are two wires that exit the switch that aren't used, along with the wires to the front brake switch. The GW switch also has the same red connector that the stock switch has, but the harness is a foot too long. For now, I doubled it over and zip tied it to shorten it up. I may do some wire cutting.
2013-08-21 16.59.41.jpg

The magnetic speed pickup (250-4165) was intimidating at first, but I decided to use some sheet aluminum and cut out four 3/4" x 2" strips and drilled a hole on one end of the strip for the hex bolt that holds the brake disc to the wheel. I then trimmed the opposite end for the aluminum to fit in the grooves on the magnet, then made 2 folds in the strips to retain the magnet. Here is a photo of the fasteners. I secured the pickup coil with zip ties to the bracket that holds the disc brake caliper. I did attach a nylock nut on the end of the bolt that goes through the coil, leaving a small area of threads that the zip tie fits. You could probably go to a hardware store and find some brackets that would work as well and look better, but I decided to use what I had.

2013-08-21 16.58.45.jpg2013-08-21 16.58.18.jpg2013-08-21 16.58.45.jpg

Because of the length of CC cable, I decided to locate the control box on the right side of the bike, up under the fairing. I positioned it so I can retrieve it by turning the handlebars full left, and it comes right out. It is nice to be able to access it easily for adjustment. I was able to connect most all of the wires by accessing the place in front of the carburetors where the red connector attaches. I did supply my own 12 Volt positive and ground wires, but the brake hot, the brake cold wires were tapped off of the GW harness. I did not connect the tach wire yet because it works ok without it. The next time I change windshields I will hook it up. The remaining harness wires, along with the fuses and relays I put adjacent to the right fairing pocket box and ziptied the wiring harness and stuffed it behind the right pocket box.

I was dealt a curveball while wiring the thing up. I have Admore LED lights in my Givi Maxia E50 top case, which causes the switched brake light wire to have some residual voltage when the brake is not applied, so I had to go to NAPA and purchase a 5 function relay ($15.00) and wire it in, using the directions on the Rostra Website troubleshooting section. Here is the link: http://www.rostra.com/manuals/250-1223-faq.pdf. If you have stock brake lights, you will not have to do this.

The DIP switch setting that works best for me is:

1-OFF
2-OFF
3-OFF
4-OFF
5-OFF
6-ON
7-OFF
8-OFF
9-OFF
10-OFF
11-OFF
12-OFF

I thought I would be able to switch the throttlemeister throttle locks on the ST1100 for the bar ends on my NC700X, but they are different sized. If I can find some stock bar ends, I will sell the Throttlemeisters for cheap.

All in all, I fumbled around quite a bit, but dividing the job into parts made the job less intimidating. Connecting the Cruise control cable to the throttle, fitting the Gold Wing switch to the handlebars, connecting the VSS pickup coil and mounting the four magnets to the wheel, and wiring the Cruise Control to the bike. If you follow my directions, it might take as little as 2 or 3 hours start to finish. I started Sunday evening and had it running Tuesday, and spent the last day and a half fine tuning it, adjusting DIP switches and getting things finessed.

My total cost:

Rostra 250-1223 Cruise Unit $175.45
Rostra 250-4165 VSS Magnet Kit $ 43.95
5 function Relay $ 15.00
Gold Wing Switch GL1500 EBay $ 34.98
________________________________________
Total $269.38

I used a few shop supplies, not enough to worry about, like crimp connectors, sheet aluminum.
 
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Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
Looks great Seth! Glad I was able to help. What I did when I shortened the wire harness was to lay the two switches (ST &GL) next to each other. Then I cut the GL wires to the same length as the ST. Then I put a new hitachi plug on the end (the stock red one was broke anyway) and removed the extra wires. This worked well because the old GL wiring was still intact in the original plug so I had that to reference while putting the pins in the new plug. I also put all the cruise wires in another hitachi plug just for ease of removal.
 
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