Clutch won't disengage & Clutch lever offers no resistance

Joined
May 21, 2011
Messages
5
Location
London, Ontario
It's spring (sort of), so getting ready for the first ride of the year .... but when I pull in the clutch lever there is little resistance, as in it feels like it is having no effect. And the clutch won't disengage. There are no apparent leaks, and "pumping" the lever has no effect. The master cylinder is full.

I had the seals fail in the clutch master cylinder in a car once, and the symptoms were similar.

Anyone had a similar issue? It's a 2004 ST1300A with 65,000 km.
 

Bigmak96

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I guess I would pull the MC apart and take a look at the rubber parts. It is an easy job to rebuild it. Start there, bleed and see what you have.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
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If the bike has stood for a long while the clutch plates may just be sticking together

Cable tie the clutch lever back (or get someone to hold it back) put the bike on main stand and rock the backwheel back and forward while in top gear
 
Joined
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John had the exact same problem last year and bleeding the clutch fixed it, believe it or not. Someone else is currently having the same problem.
 

pdfruth

P.D.Fruth
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It's spring (sort of), so getting ready for the first ride of the year .... but when I pull in the clutch lever there is little resistance, as in it feels like it is having no effect. And the clutch won't disengage. There are no apparent leaks, and "pumping" the lever has no effect. The master cylinder is full.

I had the seals fail in the clutch master cylinder in a car once, and the symptoms were similar.

Anyone had a similar issue? It's a 2004 ST1300A with 65,000 km.
Same thing happened to me last spring. I replaced the clutch fluid, while making sure to bleed any air... and was on my way. No problems since then.
 
Joined
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Lacombe, AB Canada
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Yup, I had the exact same problem 2 years ago. The bike sat all winter in a cold shed, started no problem, but same symptoms with the clutch. Someone on the forum here said to bleed the system, and, sure enough, on the first 2 cracks of the bleeder valve, some air came out. Has worked perfectly ever since.

Can't figure out how air gets in there, but it does. Bleed it out, and I'll bet you'll be fine.
 
Joined
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Yup, I had the exact same problem 2 years ago. The bike sat all winter in a cold shed, started no problem, but same symptoms with the clutch. Someone on the forum here said to bleed the system, and, sure enough, on the first 2 cracks of the bleeder valve, some air came out. Has worked perfectly ever since.

Can't figure out how air gets in there, but it does. Bleed it out, and I'll bet you'll be fine.
That is the bit that confusses me............how any air gets in?

Could imagine a seal giving up but then I would expect an oil leak!
 
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
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19
Location
Geneva Illinois
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2005 ST1300
Mike, I posted the same issue you are experiencing yesterday as well. All it took was one quick cycle ( crack bleeder, squeeze lever, lock bleeder)and all was functioning correctly again.....go figure. I hope yours is as easy as mine to correct.
 

Papa

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That is the bit that confusses me............how any air gets in?

Could imagine a seal giving up but then I would expect an oil leak!
Brake fluid is a moisture attractant. Whenever there is H2o, there is air. Moisture causes a color change as well. That's how it was explained to me anyway.
 
Joined
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That is the bit that confusses me............how any air gets in?

Could imagine a seal giving up but then I would expect an oil leak!
I know, it defies any logic I can come up with, too. But, when I had this same problem, I bled the system, and there was air that came out on the first 2 cracks of the bleeder valve. I had a perfectly functioning clutch in 20 min's. I then went ahead and properly flushed the system to get all the old fluid out of there.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
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Location
Gateshead
Hows about this for a theory then
As such water would hydraulicly operate the clutch push rod and brakes, it is not used as the water has a low boiling point
and given boiling water would produce air bubbles the reason it is totally unsuitable for hydraulic use.
Brake fluid has a higher boiling point.........so reduced chance of boiling/air bubbles
An issue could be condensation in the brake fluid which in turn overheats especially in hotter climates and produces the air
in the system
 

Byron

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And here I thought "blood letting" went out in the middle ages. :D
 

RCS

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Thanks to all! A bleeding we will go.

Stay safe,
Mike
Mike, keep in mind that when I said bleed the system I mean to empty all of the old fluid, add new, and bleed the system. My clutch fluid lasts about 8,000 miles or 2 years whichever comes first. Virtually all of my miles are at 75, 65, 55 mph on the highway.
 
OP
OP
Mike K
Joined
May 21, 2011
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London, Ontario
Thought I should give you an update .... Done, and it worked!!! I replaced the old fluid with new, and bled the system to ensure no air, water, etc. Not only is the prolbem solved, but the infamous "Honda clunk" you get when shifting from neutral into first is noticably quieter.

I guess that bit in the owners manual about changing the clutch fluid every couple of years is good advice.

Again, thanks to all! Mike
 
Joined
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Thought I should give you an update .... Done, and it worked!!! I replaced the old fluid with new, and bled the system to ensure no air, water, etc. Not only is the prolbem solved, but the infamous "Honda clunk" you get when shifting from neutral into first is noticably quieter.

I guess that bit in the owners manual about changing the clutch fluid every couple of years is good advice.

Again, thanks to all! Mike
Glad it is worked out. I flush mine every year personally along with the brakes. I figure as long as I have everything out for the brakes I might as well do this.
 
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