Roy Fletcher Dash Shelf install help

Just received the dash shelf for my 2010 ST1300A. Cannot get the cowling to fit properly because it is making contact with the under support bracket for the Roy Fletcher shelf.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rocc

Pictures would help. Just about every piece of plastic is some kind of cowling.

I've got one of his shelves and like Coop said, pictures would definitely help.

John

Hello all.

My Roy Fletcher shelf appears to be made incorrectly. It required 3 washers on the inner sub shelf for installation on the clutch side of the bike. This removed the "bow" in the sub shelf, thus allowing the under wndshield cowling to lay properly and be installe. I used the 10 mm bolt from the throttle side windshield for the clutch side of the sub shelf.

To install the dash brace you need an extra bolt. As I recall, there is an upper bolt on the left side, but just an empty hole on the right. The brace goes in the upper holes. There are two special made nuts that slide into the plastic of the meter dash where the two plastic pins previously installed. The nuts tend to head for points south if not secured a little before the windshield cowl in reinstalled. The holes should line up and the shelf can be mounted. The shelf braces mount to the shelf and one of the screws that attach the meter dash to the front cowling.

Did you see this web site? It might help.

http://www.hard-core-ware.com/howtos/index.php?page=shelf

sennister said:

Did you see this web site? It might help.

Click to expand...

http://www.hard-core-ware.com/howtos...php?page=shelf

Thanks, I've had a dash I ordered from Roy Fletcher sitting in a box for years. I just put it on today. The link to the above website works well for the Roy Fletcher Dash. It looks like it's the same dash. It was a pain getting the two upper posts threaded in. I used a punch to push through the holes to line things up then I put the posts in without the dash. I then loosened a single post while the other post was still in place and put one side of the dash in place and then repeated for the other side. Once the two upper posts were holding the dash I put the rest of the fasteners and holders in the upper cowl. I put the screws of the leg supports of the dash in last.

The dash looks great on the bike. I don't want to potty mouth Roy or anyone else on there dash manufacturing. However I noticed the metal piece that goes under the upper cowl pulls the upper cowl back as opposed to pushing it forward like what happens without the dash. In my opinion it would be better to have that metal piece pushing the cowl forward than back so it would naturally mate in to the painted part of the fairing. As it is I get a slight gap between the upper cowl and the painted part of the fairing. The metal piece underneath did not line up perfectly nor did the left leg on the dash. I kind of had to push things around to line things up. Harder than I'd like and it concerns me have stress on the little plastic pins. I'm sure there are a lot of variables in making the dash. I've had my fairing and windshield inner assembly apart numerous times in the past. It possible my windshield mechanism is not lined up perfect and its possible the bike that was used to design this was not lined up perfect. I would probably not go the dash route again. I'll test it out on my trip next week.

I took the bike out for a test ride and I will say the dash has really decreased the wind noise. It's also decrease the air I get through the windshield so that may not be good on a hot day. I use a Medium Clearview Shield and I have a tennis ball pinched in at the bottom of my windshield to remove the howl I get from the Clearview shield. At any rate it was windy today and I could not believe how quite and still the air was behind the windshield as I was riding.