Hasn't happened since, and I did not use locktite either, guess I really didn't tightened it correctly the first time.
ST1100 Fork Oil change - How to?
- Thread starter ak85lp
- Start date
Fork removal and complete dis-assembly and cleaning, then going back with a good quality 10w fork oil, Silkolene, etc. should solve the problem. Keeping stock springs and increase the oil viscosity compensates for dampening orfices enlargement from oil friction over decades of use. As dwalby, my 175lb. carcass keeps the stock springs 'happy'. Dis-assembly of and cleaning of the anti-dive valve on left fork tends to get overlooked, and plays a bigger key to dampening than realized
.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
I'd still have it disassembled and inspected as long as the fork tube and fork slider is separated. I didn't notice that my anti-dive had degraded over time and was surprised when I got mine apart, and especially then when I replaced the parts and braked hard for the first time.
The OEM fork springs are progressively wound. There are straight-rate aftermarket springs available for the standard model ST1100s, not sure about the ABS and ABS II models.
You can order from your dealer. Part number for your 93 would be: 61MY303 (covers 91-94, std and ABS), but other editions for other years would cover it also, they'd just have extra pages/coverage for the charging and ABS systems. Here's a source and listing of the Honda ST1100 Service Manuals: http://www.servicehonda.com/service-manuals
Others have reported buying them on Ebay. There are probably other sources also. HTH
John
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John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
I can't for the life of me imagine how this could happen, but I do know Murphy's Law and its corollaries.
In 17 years on the ST1100 forums I've never heard of anything like this happening. But then I'd never have believed that anyone (much less three ST owners, to date) would hook up the crankcase breather hose to the carb float bowls' drain manifold and then wonder why their ST1100 was all covered in oil. John
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You can order from your dealer. Part number for your 93 would be: 61MY303 (covers 91-94, std and ABS), but other editions for other years would cover it also, they'd just have extra pages/coverage for the charging and ABS systems. Here's a source and listing of the Honda ST1100 Service Manuals: http://www.servicehonda.com/service-manuals
Others have reported buying them on Ebay. There are probably other sources also. HTH
John[/QUOTE]
I just found and bought a honda service manual for my 93 ST. It was only $30 with shipping!
Others have reported buying them on Ebay. There are probably other sources also. HTH
John[/QUOTE]
I just found and bought a honda service manual for my 93 ST. It was only $30 with shipping!
John, what parts did you replace when you overhauled the anti-dive mechanism? Is there a writeup on it somewhere?... I didn't notice that my anti-dive had degraded over time and was surprised when I got mine apart, and especially then when I replaced the parts and braked hard for the first time.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
No writeup here on Owners. Pretty simple though. Looking at the schematic in the Honda Service Manual (p 13-7) I replaced everything but the spring, case cover, and bolts (items 5, 6, 11). The real problem was the piston (#10) had a piece of its lip break off so it wasn't sealing fully. Found the piece in the bottom of the fork slider when I pulled the fork tube out during a fork seals/bushings R&R.
John
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I just ordered the parts from Bike Bandit. It was about 60 bucks for everything under that cover. I figured it's cheap insurance for me. My bike has 53000 miles on it and I'm assuming that part of my fork has never been touched.
Pretty sure any auto parts store should be able to order you one and have it in 1-2 days. Got mine the day after I ordered it and I live in a small town.
OP
OP
ak85lp
(Paul)
I used a coupling nut for mine. The one part fits in the hex head slot and enough of it sticks out so you can get a 17 mm wrench or socket on it. I can't remember the exact size of it but just try a 17mm wrench on it until you find the right one in the store.
I just bought a 17MM allen key type wrench ( IIRC about 7$ ordered from my local auto store- one day service). you know the ones, (bent 90degres) I cut off about 1.5" with a cut off abrasive disk. after the use it resides in the tool tray right next to the metric sockets. with a box wrench turning, I can tap the butt end of the tool with a small ballpeen hammer to encourage the parts to start moving.
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my 1991 has the drain bolts , 10mm ont bottom so I have drained the oil, but the right side cap will not come off? removal of fork leg or is there another way without removal
the cap is threaded onto an internal damper rod. You need to slide the fork tube down to expose the threads on the top of the damper rod (fork removed from bike). Hold the 14mm nut on the damper rod with an open end wrench while spinning the fork cap with a 17mm hex driver.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
If the forks are still on the bike/clamped in the triple tree, lower the front end and the fork cap fastened to the damper rod will project up out of the fork tube. This assumes there's a mechanical (not hydraulic!) scissors jack under the engine. N.B. - carefully lower the front end, insuring the brake line isn't interfered with.
I always recommend removing the forks to do a proper suspension fluid R&R using the specified fluid level method spec'd in the service manual.
Edit: and I recommend you get an official Honda Service Manual for your STeed to use while doing even semi-major work on it. There are separate pages for disassembly and reassembly of each fork in the manual, not a simple "reverse order" steps. FWIW
Edit2: this thread may be of interest: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?35075-ST1100-Fork-Oil-Change&p=1977053
John
I always recommend removing the forks to do a proper suspension fluid R&R using the specified fluid level method spec'd in the service manual.
Edit: and I recommend you get an official Honda Service Manual for your STeed to use while doing even semi-major work on it. There are separate pages for disassembly and reassembly of each fork in the manual, not a simple "reverse order" steps. FWIW
Edit2: this thread may be of interest: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?35075-ST1100-Fork-Oil-Change&p=1977053
John
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Have read loads of threads on this topic but can't find a bit of info that I need.
When the forks are on the bike and filled to the correct level with the springs in what is the air gap to the top of the tube ? Has anyone measured this ?
I know that it is better to take out the forks and set the level with the springs out and fork vertical but I need to do a quick job before a trip and see if it gives an improvement. I don't want to put in the measured amount because of the risk of retained oil and overfilling. I don't want to just replace the oilthat drains out becuase a) collecting all of it it accurately when it is being pumped out is tricky b) how do I know correct amount was in there before I started.am I missing something but reckon in the end it will be right if the air gap is right? If I give the forks a good pumping after filling and temporarily putting caps back on that should not that eliminate all the air pockets which might otherwise give a false reading ?
Also from posts some confusion as to which leg has the lighter oil. I plan to use 10w and 7.5 w. Does the lighter oil go into the pistondamper right side or the other way round ?
2002 non abs. Many thanks.
David
When the forks are on the bike and filled to the correct level with the springs in what is the air gap to the top of the tube ? Has anyone measured this ?
I know that it is better to take out the forks and set the level with the springs out and fork vertical but I need to do a quick job before a trip and see if it gives an improvement. I don't want to put in the measured amount because of the risk of retained oil and overfilling. I don't want to just replace the oilthat drains out becuase a) collecting all of it it accurately when it is being pumped out is tricky b) how do I know correct amount was in there before I started.am I missing something but reckon in the end it will be right if the air gap is right? If I give the forks a good pumping after filling and temporarily putting caps back on that should not that eliminate all the air pockets which might otherwise give a false reading ?
Also from posts some confusion as to which leg has the lighter oil. I plan to use 10w and 7.5 w. Does the lighter oil go into the pistondamper right side or the other way round ?
2002 non abs. Many thanks.
David
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I've not seen any measurement such as this. It would be very difficult to measure the air gap with the spring in place, I would think. Spring out and vertical is the only way to know the true level. You are looking for an improvement, but I suggest not doing this properly will be of little use in that department.
Left fork - I used 10-15W. Right fork 7W. Non ABS model.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
TTBOMK the measurement you’re asking about hasn’t been done, almost impossible to get a useful figure anyway (esp. the right, non-ABS model fork). If you’re still bound and determined to not do a proper fork suspension fluid R&R, pump out all the fluid that you can and pour in ~100ml less than the quantity mentioned in the Service Manual. Try that first, add more in equal amounts if you find it too soft.
The stock front suspension setup calls for the same suspension fluid weight in both forks. The folks experimenting with different weights will have to weigh in and explain why they differ with Mother Honda.
John
The stock front suspension setup calls for the same suspension fluid weight in both forks. The folks experimenting with different weights will have to weigh in and explain why they differ with Mother Honda.
John
Hi John,
I did this on the advice of a suspension specialist shop, where I took the forks in a few years ago for new bushings and seals, a job I was reluctant to do myself. I have done the oil change thing a few times though, by the standard procedure. I found the suspension did feel better (smoother?) with different weight oils. Seems a reasonable thing, when you consider the different internals, different oil orifices and different functions of each fork.
Thanks for the replies guys. Though I haven't done the job I can see how it would be hard to measure air gap on a still assembled right fork. Left side should be ok and I guess you could remove the spring with fork in situ. If I can add any figures from my bike I will before draining oil in case anyone else thinks this info would be useful to have decades after these discussions first started. I do see why people want to go down the forks out route though dealing with rightfork reassembly single handed sounds like a real pain. I simply can't risk taking a working bike to bits the night before I set off early next morning for a group trip. But didn't Honda put thosedrain holes there for a reason i.e envisaging fork oil replacement in situ ?
I believe the drain holes are there just as an added drain point, but not intended to completely drain the forks. You need to pump them, upside down, several times to remove oil trapped in the internals. Even measuring the fluid height with the fork sitting on the bike is inexact, as the angle of the fluid measured on the top side will have a different level than the bottom side, if you see what I mean. Properly done, the fork is fully compressed, spring out and then fluid added.
BTW, I would strongly suggest you use a synthetic fork oil.
BTW, I would strongly suggest you use a synthetic fork oil.