ST1100 Fork Oil change - How to?

John OoSTerhuis

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Seems like if using the 'quantity' method and not doing a complete disassembly, the way to do it would be to measure what came out, and put that amount back in, rather than using a published amount.
Dean, how do you know the spec'd level was correct to start with?

As to the short-cut quantity method vs the manual's level method comparo, that's easy to do. Pour in the measured 'capacity' quantity and then measure how much you suck out to achieve the spec'd level. BTDTx4

Look, if I'm going to change my fork oil I'm going to pull the forks so I can get a thorough flush/clean-out of the old oil. If I'm going to pull the forks I'm going to measure the new oil the way the manual and any reputable shop would.

Usually when the quantity method is brought up, someone is trying to rationalize not pulling the forks and/or removing the springs, and are trying to justify it/get acceptance/approval.

FWIW YMMV Whatever floats yer boat.

John
 
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Whatever floats yer boat
I agree John! The right way is the right way for a reason.

Having said that, I 'shortcutted' this last time. Pulled the forks, didn't want to take apart the pesky right one, so I just did the measure thing on that one. (under the assumption that the level had been correct). Plus, this was not done on the bike I'm using. It was done on the one that sits in the garage at present.
 
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I do not have the shop manual yet. Will some one tell me about how often it should be changed.
My 02 with 40,000 has never been done and I have tires arriving this week.
 
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I do not have the shop manual yet. Will some one tell me about how often it should be changed.
My 02 with 40,000 has never been done and I have tires arriving this week.
The ST shop manual doesn't specify, it just mentions inspect the suspension at periodic intervals and refer to the common service manual. I change mine with every front tire replacement, because I've already got the front wheel and calipers off, so pulling the forks is only a few more quick steps. And I can always remember when was the last time I changed it without having to write it down. On the ST the oil looks fairly dirty at those intervals, so I don't think that's too often. If you want to stretch it out a bit longer I wouldn't go past 20k miles. Cleaner fork oil seems to get you longer service out of fork seals.
 
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Thank you. I ordered the 17 mm tool last night I will do the job next week. With all the help from this forum, it looks like a walk in the park.
 
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I'd say getting longer life out of fork seals is more dependant on keeping the exposed part of the fork tube clean, than having clean fork oil. Hardened on bug guts and accumulated dust and dirt will surely wear out those seals faster. On road trips, I make it a practice to clean the fork tubes after every day's ride. I've also used synthetic fork oil for a number of years. The first time I changed the fork seals on my '95 (mine since new) was two years ago, not because they were leaking, but because I was replacing the bushings, also for the first time. The bike had 161,000 kms on it then. Only changed the fluid three times since new.

Don't go for cheap on fork seals either. Use only OEM.
 
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ST1100Y

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...not because they were leaking, but because I was replacing the bushings, also for the first time. The bike had 161,000 kms on it then.
IMHO quite late for replacing the fork bushings...
I do them so every 48Tkm (30Kmiles) whilst replacing fork oil every 24Tkm (15Kmiles)...
 
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IMHO quite late for replacing the fork bushings...
I do them so every 48Tkm (30Kmiles) whilst replacing fork oil every 24Tkm (15Kmiles)...

The bushings were showing their wear by then, but they weren't totally knackered. I believe synthetic fluid can get you a LOT more miles out of them.
 

ST1100Y

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The bushings were showing their wear by then, but they weren't totally knackered.
Surely also depends on riding terrain and style... frost beaten, patch-worked mountain roads with "ambitious" riding vs speed governed highway cruising and that... :wink:
But +1 on synth oils, changed to BelRay 7W in the eraly 90ies on my STs and at the changes the "old" oil is barely discoloured, emits no "stench", probably more stable against humidity and other contaminations... and the amount of sludge in the fork bottoms is minimal...
Quite a contrast to the OEM Castrol my '92 came filled with: blackish, a stench like old transmission oil, etc...

Keeping fork tubes clean is one thing, inspecting them for gravel-pitting even more important (again depending on riding area and climates, I doubt that Ca or Fl residents see much winter gravel on their roads :wink: )
Besides visual inspection, a piece of old pantihose/tights (not the 'fishnet' ones...) comes handy, as its fine fabric will catch on any damage when rubbing it over the chrome.
 

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I finally changed my oil and it was not as difficult as I feared it would be. Only hassle was needing 3 or 4 hands for the right leg reassembly, thankfully my 6'3 and 245lb son-in-law was available to compress the spring for me and keep the rod from retracting down out of sight. Key I think is flushing out the tubes and leaving them upside down overnight to drain out the residual oil from all the nooks and crannies. Guess I'll know more once I take it for a test ride as I still have a few more things to finished off.
 
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The bushings were showing their wear by then, but they weren't totally knackered. I believe synthetic fluid can get you a LOT more miles out of them.
+1.........and a fork brace will almost eliminate any wear, getting even alot more miles out of them;).
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Yep, keeping them upside down overnight after flushing is a good idea. Good job Phil.
If you have a non-ABS with the lower fork slider plugs, I recommend laying them down overnight with the tube fully extended, slightly elevated above horizontal, and the plug hole on the bottom over a catch container. You'll be surprised at the last of the dregs that make their way to the lowest point/exit. FWIW

John

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If you have a non-ABS with the lower fork slider plugs, I recommend laying them down overnight with the tube fully extended, slightly elevated above horizontal, and the plug hole on the bottom over a catch container. You'll be surprised at the last of the dregs that make their way to the lowest point/exit. FWIW

John

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Great, now you tell me.......... :) Anyway, for now I've got 98%++ of the old #$&% out and I'm OK with this. Next time I'll try your drain method as well.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Great, now you tell me.......... :) Anyway, for now I've got 98%++ of the old #$&% out and I'm OK with this. Next time I'll try your drain method as well.
Three good flush-n-dumps with cheap ATF works well, especially if at the end some of it is pumped out the slider plug hole.

John
 
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If you have a non-ABS with the lower fork slider plugs, I recommend laying them down overnight with the tube fully extended, slightly elevated above horizontal, and the plug hole on the bottom over a catch container. You'll be surprised at the last of the dregs that make their way to the lowest point/exit. FWIW

John

via iPhone 4S
Good morning John.
My name is John as well and I tried to reg to the ST-Riders but was unable. Had problems.
Looks like another great site for information on my new 02 1100.
 

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Finally got that first ride in and the forks/ride are very much improved. Delayed way too long on this and not such a challenging job after all.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Good morning John.
My name is John as well and I tried to reg to the ST-Riders but was unable. Had problems.
Looks like another great site for information on my new 02 1100.
Try again, John. But the AOWs (Archive Of Wisdom) for the ST1100 and ST1300 are public and can be viewed without registering.

Regards, John. :STOC: Ten Fifty-Eight
 
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Not hard at all to replace on my 02 1100.
After reading and learning from others mistakes, I was able to flush out the inside with Marvel Oil without removing the forks because of the bleeder bolt at the bottom.
I did make one mistake and not use a rag over the right side and even though I had a motorcycle jack underneath (thank goodness) the bike dropped down when I removed the right cap.
Don't forget to loosen the pinch bolt at the top on both sides when removing the caps with a 17 MM Allen socket.
Having the jack underneath was a big help when trying to re install the caps. All I did was lift the bike a little higher and on they went.
As far as the amount of oil to use? All I did was measure the amount of oil removed on each side and used the same amount going back back in using a large syringe, but a turkey baster will do fine.
 
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