Article [13] ST1300 - Windshield mechanism gear relacement

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Jan 14, 2019
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dublin, ireland
This document ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism Removal.pdf shows step by step instructions for removal of the ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism (Honda Part# 64170-MCS-G01).
As more owners report mechanism failure, it is becoming clear that regular removal, inspection, cleaning, lubrication and possible gear replacement is required to assure a working unit.
The OEM mechanism has 3 primary failure modes; one often leads to the other.
1) The OEM lube looses its properties, degrading into a waxy, sticky ?anti-lube? substance.
2) The gear fractures under the increased load.
3) The fragments and the rotating gear eat up the polymer portion of the drive cables.
Ideally, a lube and gear replacement should be performed before failure occurs. At the very least you stop cycling the mechanism immediately after initial failure to minimize further damage and plan the maintenance process.
Whether you choose to replace the drive gear or not, this document shows how to remove the mechanism.
A second related document ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism (Clean Lubricate, Re-assembly) shows how to perform the required maintenance.
Basically the steps are; remove, clean, evaluate, lube, replace gear and reassemble.
Thanks to Dave Sennister for proof-reading & all his help. (& Mellow Joe)
I have GEARS! I have sent paypal requests to those on the list......and posted the second document.
Still 140$ shipped (cont. US) including replacement gear,a 1.75oz tube of soap based lithium grease (NLGI#2), instructions and several brushes to complete the kit. Shipments outside the US, on a case by case basis.
Long may you run!
ricke (warofman9)
carlermotorcycleparts@gmail.com
View attachment 142266
Hi - how can i buy a drive gear?
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Messages
2
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60
Location
Grimsby UK
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ST1300 + XJR1300
are these drive gears still available and do you ship to the UK and what is the price

Cheers Slick
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2019
Messages
1
Age
53
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
This document ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism Removal.pdf shows step by step instructions for removal of the ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism (Honda Part# 64170-MCS-G01).
As more owners report mechanism failure, it is becoming clear that regular removal, inspection, cleaning, lubrication and possible gear replacement is required to assure a working unit.
The OEM mechanism has 3 primary failure modes; one often leads to the other.
  1. The OEM lube looses its properties, degrading into a waxy, sticky ?anti-lube? substance.
  2. The gear fractures under the increased load.
  3. The fragments and the rotating gear eat up the polymer portion of the drive cables.
Ideally, a lube and gear replacement should be performed before failure occurs. At the very least you stop cycling the mechanism immediately after initial failure to minimize further damage and plan the maintenance process.
Whether you choose to replace the drive gear or not, this document shows how to remove the mechanism.
A second related document ST1300 Window Adjustment Mechanism (Clean Lubricate, Re-assembly) shows how to perform the required maintenance.
Basically the steps are; remove, clean, evaluate, lube, replace gear and reassemble.
Thanks to Dave Sennister for proof-reading & all his help. (& Mellow Joe)
I have GEARS! I have sent paypal requests to those on the list......and posted the second document.
Still 140$ shipped (cont. US) including replacement gear,a 1.75oz tube of soap based lithium grease (NLGI#2), instructions and several brushes to complete the kit. Shipments outside the US, on a case by case basis.
Long may you run!
ricke (warofman9)
carlermotorcycleparts@gmail.com
View attachment 142266
Do you have any of these gears left?
 

sirbike

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Feb 26, 2007
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865
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Cleveland OH
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2003 ST1300A
2024 Miles
000093
I rebuilt a windshield adjuster with 109,000 miles this past winter. It was working properly.
When I moved the cables out of the gear housing, I found heavy resistance plus a point so heavy that I didn’t want to push any harder to over come
I followed the write up.
Great write up, thank you.
I sanded the sides of the sliding blocks with 600 sandpaper until they slid freely.
Gear looked good.
Polymer was chewed some. Turned the cables 180.
Now I could slide the assembled block cable dog up and down the track with the cable in the track to gear housing tube with relative ease.
Impressive that there was so much friction between the block and the track from the factory in addition to the seizing lube and that it worked like that.
I’ve put another 10,000 miles on, use it quite a bit transitioning between highway and city, works great.
So I just rebuilt my second unit, 64,000 miles.
Same condition but the friction in the slides after cleaning was greater. Presumably tighter from the factory. Took more sanding to slide freely.
I studied and thought about the wear on the polymer and the idea of turning the cable 180 to present the unworn side to the gear.
The way I see it, the polymer is a skid that the metal cable rides on/in.
On one side of the cable the gear pushes into the polymer to make contact with the metal portion of the cable. On the other side of the cable the polymer provides a skid surface against the housing In turn pushing the cable against the gear. Subsequently the polymer wears out on the gear side. If we turn the cable 180 degrees to present unworn polymer to the gear, the worn side is now pressed against the gear housing. Meaning a worn reduced height skidding surface is against the gear housing. Meaning the metal portion of the cable is going to ride closer to the housing, which means it is not pushed as tightly against the gear, keep in mind that that unworn polymer is pushing the metal away from the gear more so than the worn polymer, which would mean less metal gear to metal cable contact area and increased wear.
So with this in mind I did not turn the cables 180 degrees this time.
Check me if I’m missing something.
 
Joined
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A timely bump, given that my windshield won't move upwards as of yesterday.

(I'm aware to check/swap the relays & check the limit switches, but a full overhaul might be well worth it).
 

SupraSabre

48 Years of SoCal Lane Splitting/Commuting-Retired
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A timely bump, given that my windshield won't move upwards as of yesterday.

(I'm aware to check/swap the relays & check the limit switches, but a full overhaul might be well worth it).
If it's not moving at all, check the wiring. I have yet to see a motor go bad on these (I think I have like four motors sitting around...).

For it not to move due to crud build up (or bad cable or gear), usually one side or the other will go up, but not the other.

Good luck!
 
Joined
Apr 14, 2019
Messages
12
Age
61
Location
Lakeland, FL
Hi guys,
First of all kudos to warofman9! Great articles and diagrams.

looks like I got to mine just in time. The gear is in fine shape and the conversion from lube to anti-lube was nearly complete.
i’m not clear on where to lubricate and how much to use. i’ve got a tube of white lithium grease which states to use just the right amount for the job. I’m thinking to pack the gear housing with as much as will fit and applying a fine coat to the upper and lower tracks left and right. What about the cable itself?

also, is it advisable/possible to clean out the tubes? If so, what’s the best way to do that.

One more question. the original post mentioned a polymer portion of the drive cable. Is that what looks like the birds nest in the housing? Photo attached. If so that can’t be good

Thanks
 

Attachments

Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
32
Location
Basingstoke
Bike
ST1300
Hello,
My screen managed to go down without any problems but now wont go up. There is power to and from the switch so now need to check the up and down relays and stop switches so therefore need to remove the center fairing to access them.
Can this be removed without having to remove the side fairings. I'm kinda hoping it can as taking off the side fairings is a task i would like to avoid if possible.
Hope you all managing to keep free of Covid.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
32
Location
Basingstoke
Bike
ST1300
Yes you can remove the front section without removing the side fairings.
Thanks Jerry.

Would anyone be able to tell me if the up and down stop switches on the screen become a closed circuit when activated (the arm is depressed) or an open circuit as I am suspecting this may be the cause of my screen not going up as the relays seem to be operating correctly when tested as per the workshop manual. The only other test to carry out is to power the motor directly to make sure it is still working.

It seems coincidental that the screen would not go up after it had reached its lower position when the lower switch would be activated
Any advice welcome.
 

sirbike

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
865
Location
Cleveland OH
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2003 ST1300A
2024 Miles
000093
Hi guys,
First of all kudos to warofman9! Great articles and diagrams.

looks like I got to mine just in time. The gear is in fine shape and the conversion from lube to anti-lube was nearly complete.
i’m not clear on where to lubricate and how much to use. i’ve got a tube of white lithium grease which states to use just the right amount for the job. I’m thinking to pack the gear housing with as much as will fit and applying a fine coat to the upper and lower tracks left and right. What about the cable itself?

also, is it advisable/possible to clean out the tubes? If so, what’s the best way to do that.

One more question. the original post mentioned a polymer portion of the drive cable. Is that what looks like the birds nest in the housing? Photo attached. If so that can’t be good

Thanks
Definitely clean out the tubes. There is probably dry caked lube in them.
I used my ultrasonic cleaner.
You could spray anything in the tubes like degreaser or WD40.
Then I balled up a small wad of paper towel and pushed it through with a cable.
Grease the cables they will carry lube into the tubes.
That doesn’t look like the polymer, is it dried grease that flaked?
Just clean it up lube and put it back together.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
32
Location
Basingstoke
Bike
ST1300
Hello all.
Can anyone tell if on the upper and lower limit switches on the screen, is the small silver button supposed to move in and out, thus making the connection inside the switch or is contact made by the metal arm contacting the silver button? Probably seems a daft question but neither of the buttons move on my 2 switches and the buttons have a black coating on them.
 
Joined
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2002 ST1300A
STOC #
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I can't remember about the button depressing (I'm sure someone with a better memory than I will be along shortly).

However, if the screen moves down, but not up, and you have the front off the bike - I would be swapping the up/down limit switches to see if the fault moves. Also while in there, have a good look at the left headlight connector. When I had your problem, the root cause was the ground pin on the left H4 connector (right also showed some damage). I also had other electrical issues at the time, that you haven't mentioned (like the main beam dash indicator lighting when I only had dipped beam on).
 
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