ST1100 abs11 anti dive valve rebuild

What parts would I need to rebuild the anti dive valve? I have the oem part number 51530-MAJ-G41
I wonder do I need all this or would just getting a few seals/piston do the trick, oem parts are very expensive over here.
I have been quoted ?152 stg for the oem parts.
also with hyperpro fork springs costing ?140 stg I wonder could I increase the preload on the oem springs? thanks

Hi John,
just trying to figure this out,a steep learning curve for me!!I will get it figured out somehow though. I get confused by the parts fiche because I don't know exactly what parts I need,but I am learning, slowly,
thanks for taking the time to help.

BTDT. You probably want everything new except #5 and #6. I did for peace of mind at ~162K.



The rubber seal bonded on the lip of the plunger (#10) had a chunk missing that I'd found in the bottom of the fork slider during a fork seal R&R. Should have noticed the system wasn't working well, even though I really don't do a lot of hard braking. Anybody doing a fork suspension fluid and/or seals R&R should pull the anti-dive apart and inspect it, especially if you have a high mileage ST. JMHO

HTH

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Should have noticed the system wasn't working well,

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Thanks John, I didn't even know it was there till I read about it on a thread here,I put a cable tie on the fork yesterday and went for a short run,just normal riding/braking, forgot I had tied it on till I got home, it had moved 5" up the fork tube,so I'd imagine in an emergency stop she'd be bottoming out.

Believe me, I noticed the difference/change/improvement the very first time I applied the front brake after putting the ST back together. Like a lot of suspension issues, I'd gotten used to the gradual degradation in performance over time.

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Believe me, I noticed the difference/change/improvement the very first time I applied the front brake after putting the ST back together. Like a lot of suspension issues, I'd gotten used to the gradual degradation in performance over time.

John

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Did you stick with the original springs John? I'm not sure whether to get aftermarket springs or not, thanks

broc11 said:

Did you stick with the original springs John? I'm not sure whether to get aftermarket springs or not, thanks

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Broc, I replaced the OEMs with Progressive Suspension springs many, many years ago. Have used Pro Honda suspension fluid (10 wt) ever since. I'm on my fourth OEM rear shock. I ride solo 100% of the time these days and am content with this setup. I'm not a Ricky Racer/knee-dragger.

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Broc, I replaced the OEMs with Progressive Suspension springs many, many years ago. Have used Pro Honda suspension fluid (10 wt) ever since. I'm on my fourth OEM rear shock. I ride solo 100% of the time these days and am content with this setup. I'm not a Ricky Racer/knee-dragger.

John

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I fiited a new wilbers 640 shock last week ,that's when I discovered how bad the front is, I have a 1/4" movement in the forks, jacked up and pushing/pulling from the axle, so new head bearings and fork bushes are going in. the hyperpro springs are supposed to be great, as advised by Martin,(ST1100Y)
I won't know the condition of the oem springs till I have her apart, I'll probably end up buying the hyperpros anyway. a lot of cash spent but the bike is improving all the time.
My bike had one owner from new, and it was totally standard when I bought it last year, I wouldn't like to add up what I have spent, but the St1100 is one of a kind. I'll lkely appreciate it more when I really start to tour on her.

New piston on the left.

I installed a new anti dive piston with new rubber bush as well, I am confused though because the hole in the new piston looks oval shaped also with the collar bush fitted,there is movement when you catch the pivot collar and move it around inside the collar bush of the piston.
It must be designed to have this movement in it? I fitted the collar bush inside the piston,there are 2 small little 'tits' on the outside of the bush which I aligned with the holes in the piston, and pushed it in place,can't understand why it looks oval shaped,and there is then movement when I wiggle the pivot collar around?
I'll try and add a pic of the pistons,new and old.
Anyone any ideas? thanks

I think I've managed to answer my own question,this may be of help to someone in the future,apparently the bush in the piston is supposed to be oval shaped,
found some good info on this Goldwing forum,

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10975&start=25

also these pics.

Just finished putting her all back together and now I discover a leak from around the anti dive cover,the 0 ring must have got damaged or should I have put some kind of sealing compound in there as well?
Jes the thought of taking her apart again,should have left well enough alone.

broc11 said:

...should I have put some kind of sealing compound in there as well?

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Not according to the w/shop manual... clean surfaces and slightly lubricated O-ring (i.e. very thin film of food grade silicone grease) should do. The 4 bolts holding the cover require threadlock and 4Nm.

ST1100Y said:

Not according to the w/shop manual... clean surfaces and slightly lubricated O-ring (i.e. very thin film of food grade silicone grease) should do. The 4 bolts holding the cover require threadlock and 4Nm.

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broc11 -

Did you use the silicone grease on a new o-ring and were you able to get the cover replaced with no fork oil leaks?

STraymond said:

Did you use the silicone grease on a new o-ring and were you able to get the cover replaced with no fork oil leaks?

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Yes to both... cleaned all surfaces immaculately, a slight smear on the O-ring (just enough that it's entire surface is shiny), put together, no leaks...
I'd also refurbed the anti-dive mechanism on an old CX500 with success... smooth operation again with no leaks...
I use frugal ammounts of silicone grease on all rubber<>metal joints... coolant elbows, alternator O-rings, radiator and gas cap gaskets, fuel pump and sending unit gaskets, etc... reducing the friction prevents the rubber from twisting or getting misaligned/cut between parts...

Heh heh... a 7+ year old thread and all three of us are still here and poSTing.

John

STraymond said:

broc11 -

Did you use the silicone grease on a new o-ring and were you able to get the cover replaced with no fork oil leaks?

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I honestly can't rem it's so long ago, all I rem is when I was finished overhauling the suspension the bike was riding great, sometimes I really miss the ST but the little vstrom 650 really suits me better and the ST was just sitting idle,
still though if it ever comes up for sale again I'd be tempted, that smooth power and comfort to eat up the miles was fantastic. I have even been looking at adds for ST1300's lately, still have never had a spin on a 1300.