Like riding on washboard all the time

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Nov 3, 2008
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288
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san diego, ca
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'07 ST1300
I had a similar stiction problem. Loosen the left fork axle pinch bolts, pull the fork away from the wheel. If it pops out about an eighth inch, that's your problem. Bounce the front end and retighten.

Bill
 

ST Gui

240Robert
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SF-Oakland CA
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ST1300, 2010
Loosen the left fork axle pinch bolts, pull the fork away from the wheel. If it pops out about an eighth inch, that's your problem. Bounce the front end and retighten.
caveman, I'd start here. It's probably the easiest thing to do. There's a sequence to tightening all the bolts when changing the tire. It's posted on the site. I might even check the entire alignment of your forks just to be sure everything is lined up correctly.

If that doesn't fix everything, then I'd find out exactly what a stock Honda front spring assembly should look like and check to see it's assembled correctly.

Maybe somebody here knows-- does the ST have an anti-dive unit like the GoldWing? My buddy noticed a problem with his Wing riding rough and it was because the anti-dive unit was bad.

Try to troubleshoot as much as you can before replacing anything.
 
Joined
Nov 19, 2010
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69
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Moss Bluff...sw La.
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2009 ST1300
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8548
I had a similar problem with the Connie that I rode prior to getting "Big Red". Roll the upper tubes on a smooth flat surface to check for damage. When I rode on a straight road, the front end felt stiff. Whenever I dove off into a curve, there was a drastic front end drop. Scary! I pulled the forks to install drain plugs in the lower tubes, I set the upper tubes on my work bench and they didn't roll. They were both slightly bent. I bought the bike used and hadn't noticed the bend. Picked up a used set and was amazed, still no where near the ST but much much better. Might be worth checking. Ted
 
OP
OP
caveman
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Messages
7
Location
Oswego, NY
Bike
'04 ST1300
This symptoms started before I ever had the front wheel off and did not exist when I first purchased the bike. I have followed all the FSM instruction when disassembling and reassembling and have rechecked several times.

I ordered parts to rebuild the fork as well as a set of Sonic Springs (using 7.5wt oil set at 120mm per their guidance). I think that the rebuild will reveal some plugged orifices in the dampener assembly or maybe some other parts issue which results in the stiction/vibration I have been having.

I hope to have the parts and the work done on Friday or Saturday the 20th and 21st. I will update after I get it all done.
Thanks.
 
Joined
Nov 3, 2008
Messages
288
Location
san diego, ca
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'07 ST1300
I have followed all the FSM instruction when disassembling and reassembling and have rechecked several times.
I hear what you're saying about never having had the wheel off. I would give it a try anyway. Following the procedure (several times) didn't help in my case. I had to physically pull the fork away from the wheel. The axle had some stiction of its own.

Bill
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
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104
Location
New Johnsonville, TN
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GL1800
Please keep us posted. I have the same problem and just tried loosening the pinch bolts and bouncing the front end. After a run down the street, I don't think it helped. I will get it out on the road when I have more time. Thanks
 
Joined
May 20, 2010
Messages
17
Location
43952
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05 ST
In the interest of others having this problem since the OP seems to have gone MIA:

If you have the facilities and a method to safely support the bike with the forks off the ground, I'd try removing the springs(leave the oil in) and checking by hand if the fork action is smooth. Also check the steering head bearings while it is hanging there, loose, and tight ones do weird things. Check the wheel bearings too. If the fork action is smooth, I'd highly suspect the tire and/or out of roundness in the wheel, maybe an incorrectly seated bead. If it is not, I'd suspect bent or misaligned parts or one leg that is bad. Soooo.

If the forks do not move smoothly, remove the wheel and check each leg independently, this should test if something in one of the legs is binding. The forks are simple but, like anything else, can break or get dirt in them. If one is found to bind, just go through it as the manual says, check the tubes too. If neither bind, reassemble wheel and try the first test again.

If you dont have the resources/ability to do the above, you may be able to remove one spring and ride carefully, this will start the forks in a different part of their travel and might give an indication that the forks are not parallel if they still stick. Be careful, at the least, you wont have much ground clearance and the geometry will be way off as the forks will have 1/2 the spring rate.

Check all your upper and lower triple clamp bolts, too tight and too loose are both bad. Check the axle for straightness. Check the Wheel for roundness and straightness. Note how everything comes apart and goes together, they are all tight fits but if everything is straight, little force is required.

Sometimes you just have to go through it all if the solution is not obvious. It is possible that there is a problem in the rear working its way up to the front but I'd check the front first.

BTW, I am a big fan of Rich at Sonic and have made many purchases but my current settings are stock springs, Maxima 10wt, 3" down, triples two nickel thicknesses down from the line and I am unlikely to ever change it. This seems to work well everywhere, even on the track:) YMMV

Heaths solution above seems unlikely but peoples description of what things feel like vary. I would think it would have an obvious lack of power and terrible fuel consumption rather than feel like a front end problem but again YMMV.
 
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Joined
Jun 13, 2014
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Location
North Texas
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'08 ST1300
Does anyone have the link for the proper tightening sequence when installing forks and or front wheel ?
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
167
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
Bike
'08 ST1300ABS
STOC #
8741
Does anyone have the link for the proper tightening sequence when installing forks and or front wheel ?
This is from memory, but I just had my front end apart to rebuild 3? weeks ago...

Use this instruction purely at your own risk. You really should confirm in the Honda Factory Service Manual on all information here.

I made a bolt torquing check list to check of final torque on each bolt when done (factory marks each bolt with a yellow paint marker once torqued on initial assembly).

Forks in triple clamps:
Install assembled fork tubes bringing top edge of FORK TUBE (not cap) even with top of upper triple clamp. The fork caps will be turned in to touch, but not tightened yet.
Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts. If I am recalling, I think it is 23 N-m. I tighten in 3 steps alternating between the two socket head bolts. Use a torque wrench.

Front wheel/tire:
Apply thin film of grease to axle bearing sealing "washers" and lips of axle bearing seals.
Install the front axle, with coating of grease applied, through all parts of the wheel assembly. Use a 17 mm hex driver to prevent axle rotation and tighten the right side axle bolt (big hex bolt in right end) to spec, bringing the bearing preload and and seal discs all together. The flange of this nut should be firm against the outside surface of the right fork slider.
Tighten the left axle pinch bolts. Left side pinch bolts are not yet tight - axle is still free in left slider.

Back to fork pinch bolts:
At this point, I lower the front wheel to the ground and lightly compress and release the front end a few times. DO NOT APPLY BRAKES unless the pads are blocked in the calipers, or you will blow the pistons out. Big mess to clean and reassemble. Don't do it.
Jack the front end back up.
Tighten the fork caps to spec (26 N-m?? going from memory).
Using the same 3-step increasing torque sequence, alternate between the two upper pinch bolts on each fork to achieve the correct final torque (from memory, 22 N-m, but check the SM to be sure).

Final Axle Tightening:
Tighten the right side axle pinch bolts in the right slider. Ensure the outer end of axle is flush with outside of axle hole in slider at this time. If not, something is amiss in the assembly, or fork tubes are bent.
IF ABS - confirm sensor to tone ring clearance is in spec (0.5 - 1.0 mm I think). If all else is good and this is out of spec, you need to replace the sensor and mounting bracket and/or tone ring to make it good. There is no clearance adjustment on this assembly. Mine measures 0.78 mm consistently when checked after reassembly.

Reinstall brake hose (and ABS sensor wire) clamps/brackets.
Install brake calipers and pads, and pump up the brakes (front and rear) to bring pads bake to contact with rotors. Confirm firm brake feel on front lever and rear pedal.
Reinstall hose brackets and fender.
Confirm brake fluid level is within range.
Final visual inspection of all aspects.

Hope that is what you wanted.

Randy
 

Highrider

Part time mechanic
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Jun 30, 2005
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870
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68
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Barlett, Illinois
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2005 ST1300
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5560
Just a suggestion - check your front sag situation and record the results before you tear into the forks and replace springs. I haven't seen anything in this thread that the sag was checked or dialed in. The fork / spring travel loaded and unloaded may give you an idea of what is not correct, and will provide a reference for any improvement from the results of any changes that you make. This would also be a good reference against the springs and spacers that are currently in the forks.
 
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