Old 28amp alternator left me stranded this morning

OP
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I decided I would take out the old alternator this afternoon. It proved to be a little challenge but once the stator was removed and a tab that supports the brake line was bent up out of the way the gear portion of the alternator rotated out well. Here's a few pics of the progress.
DSC07742.jpgDSC07743.jpgDSC07744.jpgDSC07749.jpgDSC07748.jpgDSC07750.jpgDSC07752.jpg
Tomorrow starts the alternator transformation.
 
OP
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alternator extraction pathway.jpg
The circle is the brake line support (1 of 2) that I bent upward to allow the alternator to rotate up and out. In some videos I've watched some of the bike didn't have those tabs or possibly the owners cut them off. I should be able to bend it back and it function just fine.
I'll continue to take pics and post them up.
 
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Here's something I have wondered about for a number of years. Regarding the post above with the string of pictures, in the first picture, to the right and just above the swingarm, is a braided hose connected to the rear of the engine. My '95 does not have that hose, which would appear to be an oil hose? Who knows what that hose is for and when and why Honda changed the design to having no hose? I can not find it on any parts fiche for the '91 model.
 
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John OoSTerhuis

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Bush, that hose is the crankcase breather hose. Only on the USA '91 model year. It's on a fiche, [-]can't remember which one, sorry.[/-]
Edit: the '91's unique external crankcase breather chamber parts are shown on the "Fuel Tank" fiche.

John
 
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OP
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Thanks for the photo documentation Terry!

Wondering why you split the alternator?
At first I didn't but the alternator as a whole is to long to bring back and rotate upward due to the frame cross members. The alternator baseplate is what causes the issue.
Plus in this link http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/AltProc.htm is instructions written by Mike Hosier and under disassembley #13 the alt is split.
I discovered (at least for me) I had to remove the alt baseplate bolts except for the top one. I reinserted it several threads so as to support the alt while I turned it the alt a bit to allow for better alignment with my 6mm allen on a long 3/8" extention to remove the out stator bolt. The distance between it and the frame is so close it wouldn't allow for proper alignment and I wasn't about to strip it out.
Sorry for the overkill answer but once I start thinking about the process and the why's the above info seemed important.

Terry
 
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Sorry guys for not posting any updates. Work has been very busy.
Today I'll be dismantling the alternator and combining the new with the old and of course what ever my wifey needs me to do.
 
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The new alternator is in DSC07771.jpg DSC07778.jpg. :)
Firstly, the information provided on st-owners, st-riders, and mike martins web pages, not to mention the links there provided are indispensable. also my clymer shop manual was a great asset with helpful info.
Disassembley of old alternator and assembling the parts for the new alternator went smoothly DSC07760.jpg DSC07761.jpg DSC07764.jpg then came installing the base unit into it's new home. I borrowed a homemade lewis pin from krummenacker on this site and I was ready, haha. I put a little grease on that pin put it in the hole to hold the gears aligned, worked the base plate into place and finagled with it for say 5 min and it slipped right in. Oh this is so easy I thought. Put the rest of the alternator on, installed the flange bolts to hold it in place while I pull the lewis pin out. So now I ready, set and snatch...........nothing happened bu me grunting, hmmm. I proceed to snatch and pull and snatch and finally.......the cable broke and the pin was still in the gear, oh darn I thought (sure that's what I was thinking). Well I took everything out, and waited until today. I called my dad up and told him I've got a project for you. It pays to know people with talent and a lathe. That man never ceased to amaze me. In no time at all I've got a brand spankin new lewis pin, I was ready freddy to get this done.
Well 5 for attempt and yes the pin was out. Firstly read everything on all those pages a few time over and hope you remember it all, haha. Secondly, think about having the correct angle between the pin and the oil drain hole. I pulled from the left side of the bike instead of the right lower side. Thirdly, make sure when you insert the alternator gear into the bike that the pin is in the 4 to 5 o'clock position. If it's at the 6 o'clock when the gears line up and it slides into place the pin is going to be hindered by cast metal in front of it.
DSC07765.jpgDSC07768.jpgDSC07773.jpgDSC07774.jpg
I decided to split the new alternator. No special reason, it just worked better for me doing it that way. There is a little trick to assembling the alternator in that tight space. I'd be glade to share it, just ask but for now it would take me...ah heck. Once you have the front portion of the alt butted up to the baseplate, pull it out enough to rotate the back upward a little bit. With you right hand ease the back portion down onto it, being patient it will fit together. Once it's together, wiggle it till the splines line up and slide her in. In reality it didn't happen quite that fast but that's the jest of it.
The wiring seems straight forward. I've provided some pics of it. I would appreciate you guys looking it over and letting me know if anything looks awkward, wrong or could be done a better way.
DSC07782.jpgDSC07783.jpgDSC07784.jpg

I'm not done yet but overall it has been challenging but not overwhelming. The cable break was a sure "oh crap moment" but still it has gone smoothly in retrospect.
The next task is the drive shaft.

Terry
 

Mark

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Thanks for the pictures and write up!

I can't comment on your wiring as I haven't done those bits.
 
OP
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OP
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Tavares, Florida
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8750
As a follow up on this thread I finally completed the drive shaft and final drive maintenance and got the swing arm and tire back on. The fuel tank and carbs are back in and I fired her off. Running rough until I sync her BUT ! during the idle I tested the voltage at the battery and got 14.35 volts. I know it maybe early but at this point I'm deeming the alternator upgrade a success. I know a road test is needed but after struggling with VRR & Alt issue for months now I'm just so darn excited over what I see on the meter and on the bike. That sure is a purty alternator :)
 

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As a follow up on this thread I finally completed the drive shaft and final drive maintenance and got the swing arm and tire back on. The fuel tank and carbs are back in and I fired her off. Running rough until I sync her BUT ! during the idle I tested the voltage at the battery and got 14.35 volts. I know it maybe early but at this point I'm deeming the alternator upgrade a success. I know a road test is needed but after struggling with VRR & Alt issue for months now I'm just so darn excited over what I see on the meter and on the bike. That sure is a purty alternator :)
Congrats for keeping one of the original STs on the road!!!
 
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