Michelin Pilot Road 4

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Front 120/70-18
Rear 170/60-17
The oem rear tyre is 160/70-17 won't fitting the 170/60-17 affect the abs in some way? the little bit of extra width shouldn't be an issue,but doesn't the 10mm height difference or whatever it is affect the relative wheels speeds and therefore the abs system? maybe I'm totally wrong, just asking the question.
 
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The oem rear tyre is 160/70-17 won't fitting the 170/60-17 affect the abs in some way? the little bit of extra width shouldn't be an issue,but doesn't the 10mm height difference or whatever it is affect the relative wheels speeds and therefore the abs system? maybe I'm totally wrong, just asking the question.
Doubtful that will affect ABS...... the difference would have to be greater than that.
 

STurgisSTeele

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The oem rear tyre is 160/70-17 won't fitting the 170/60-17 affect the abs in some way? the little bit of extra width shouldn't be an issue,but doesn't the 10mm height difference or whatever it is affect the relative wheels speeds and therefore the abs system? maybe I'm totally wrong, just asking the question.
I've looked around and going by what others use, and what's available at the different tire stores, decided on those sizes. It really didn't occur to me that the ABS would be affected. But my thinking is that the computer will measure the timing of the rotation of both wheels and all will be good. Not aware of what difference in tire size would need to have to mess up the ABS system. My guess is that if it's too out of whack on the initial base line, when you first roll the bike after start-up, the system would not be active and the dash light would stay lit. But I'm sure there are others here that can answer more technically.
 
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Thanks guys,not sure myself,I have discovered that the way it works I think,

the oem tyre is 160/70-17 therefore the sidewall height is 70% of 160 which is 112mm?
the pr3 is 170/60-17 then the sidewall height is 60% of 170 which is 102mm,
that means there's a 10mm difference in tyre height.

I don't know enough about it,hopefully some wiser heads on here eg Uncle Phil will have an answer.
It's a pity it's so hard to find the 160/70-17 tyre size,the only ones I can find over here are Metzeler Z6's and bt023's
 

Bigmak96

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Thanks guys,not sure myself,I have discovered that the way it works I think,

the oem tyre is 160/70-17 therefore the sidewall height is 70% of 160 which is 112mm?
the pr3 is 170/60-17 then the sidewall height is 60% of 170 which is 102mm,
that means there's a 10mm difference in tyre height.

I don't know enough about it,hopefully some wiser heads on here eg Uncle Phil will have an answer.
It's a pity it's so hard to find the 160/70-17 tyre size,the only ones I can find over here are Metzeler Z6's and bt023's
Hi Broc,,,see my post in your other thread.
John has it right for the most part. But, when the difference is too great it does more that give you lights. It covers the fluid path with both pistons in the modulators and leaved them there till you slow to the system threshold.
That was fun the first time it happened with a CT. I just rolled off the throttle and downshifted till I slowed enough. Really glad it happened when slowing to turn off the highway rather than needing to avoid a car. I pulled my ABS fuse and the brakes were fine, just no ABS.
Till I find a taller CT I likely will not use one again on the ABS 1100
 
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[QUOTE;1702134]I have new set of PR3's ready to fit, but my guy says he can get me PR 4s in exchange....[/QUOTE]

It is sounding like PR4 is in the same price range as the PR3.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 

Outlaws

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Thanks guys,not sure myself,I have discovered that the way it works I think,

the oem tyre is 160/70-17 therefore the sidewall height is 70% of 160 which is 112mm?
the pr3 is 170/60-17 then the sidewall height is 60% of 170 which is 102mm,
that means there's a 10mm difference in tyre height.
Actually the difference would be 20mm if the ratio was exact which it usually is not since it is the distance from rim to tread x 2 + 17 = total height.

;)
 
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It's the circumference that counts as far as ABS is concerned... sensors pick up difference in rotation or lack of rotation to pulse-release the brakes so rotation can resume or partially resume at a frequency intended for maximum traction. A 20 mm difference in diameter would mean approx. 2+ inches of circumference, or approx. 2 1/2% would be difference between the two rear tire sizes. ABS senses the difference between front and rear tires (at some programmed design default taking into consideration front/rear tire circumference difference, plus some kind of percentage parameter for differing tire manufacturers and presumably to account for change as a tire wears/gets smaller). The key is with a larger/smaller rear tire, did you exceed the percentage parameter? Dunno what the default is...... Confused yet?

That said, gimme a set of those PR4's, I want to try them.
 
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The game is changing
That looks like a great system,could be a lifesaver,I was just looking back at the original promotional adds for my VFR800fi 98-01 series, the combined braking system was the latest thing,and the reviewers were saying it was as good as abs,with the bike squatting down when the brakes were hammered on,
technology has moved on a lot,what will it be like in another 10-20 years?
still love that old vfr though,wish the weather would settle down so I could take her out for a decent spin.
 

Mellow

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[video=youtube;gGD6HLdNcW4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGD6HLdNcW4[/video]
 

Throttlejockey

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I wonder what the cost of the GT tires will be. The rear sounds like it will be a big improvement to help in scalloping.
 

Throttlejockey

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Wow. Looks like the prices aren't bad at all. On Revzilla a set of the GT's is about $316 but they don't have a front available.
 

Appalachian

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Hmmm... I already loose grip in transitions with the PR3 rear, not sure the PR4 rear is a step in the right direction for me.
 

Appalachian

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+1

I find the rear tire wants to 'skip' slightly when pushed.
I don't mind the relatively consistent, predictable little steps the rear takes when way over on the edge, nearing it's limits - by far the lesser of the evils IMO.

What I don't like is when I start to get spin drift while straightening the bike under throttle, while I still have significant weight on the inside. This gets noticeably worse in the last 1/3 of the tires usable life, probably due to irregular patch pressure caused by significant scalloping. I originally thought it was due to the compound transition, but a review of the PR3 specs suggests otherwise. Now, they have changed the PR4, moving the compound transition to where I thought it was (problematically so) on the PR3, and put an even harder compound there to boot. By MY math, for ME, that's unlikely to work well!

I have no reason to doubt that this product will work very well for many, the PR line from the beginning has been a very good solution in the Sport-Touring segment. I still like the originals the best for performance and linear wear side to side though - maybe I'm just old school, or need to spend more time going straight :rolleyes:
 
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I am one who doesn't mind a softer tire for more grip, and if Revzilla is right, my plan to get PR4's is in question.... maybe I'll try a set anyway just to find out for myself. I never ran PR3's so can't comment. PR2's were longer lasting, and I didn't like those much when the weather got colder and the tire was worn 75%, otherwise OK. PR4 tread pattern is much improved IMHO.
 
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I ordered a set of PR4s today. I have no idea when they will be in, I'll post some pictures when they come in. I still have a NEW set of RP3's not even mounted. I love working for Michelin. I found the PR3's likes running a VERY straight line. At 25km/h the bike wants to stay straight, like it is locked in that position. Maybe it just me.

I had to edit this comment already. My 1st and only set of PR3s has been on my bike since July 2012. I just put them on to drive from Nova Scotia Canada to San Diego,California. Then up to Reno then home. Some people may remember my small bump in San Francisco. I left home at 40,000 km and is at the 58000 km mark now. The rear has about 1000km left and the front about 3-4000km left. I contribute the long life to 5th gear driving all day for 15000km
 
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