front bars oil

Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
2
Location
Spain
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st1300 07
Hi from spain.
First of all Happy New Year to all!
I have a question:
When you change the oil of the front bars of suspensi?n? by date or kms?
If you change by kms, how many?
Only change the oil or anything else at the bars (rings, etc..)
Best Regards.
 

ScubaDave

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st 1300
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7998
I am guessing you are asking about the forks. If so I believe it is listed in the owners manual and is by mileage.
 

dduelin

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In the North America owner's manual and shop manual there is no time period or kilometer/miles recommendation to change the oil in the front forks. However, it's a common practice to do this between 24,000 and 40,000 km.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2012
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Norfolk, VA
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2019 Goldwing Tour
What is the most common oil used? I know the front dives some with brakes applied, do you guys use a higher weight oil in the stock forks?
This is on the getting long list of maintenance things I need to do, I don't really have the money to change out the suspension so I am looking for what others are doing with the stock setup.
I know changing the suspension would be the best thing to do but that will have to wait at this time.
 

dduelin

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It's Showa SS-8 from the factory which is a 10 wt but light oils like this don't measure well under "weight".

Personally I upped the preload on stock springs by 16 mm and went to a slightly less thick oil by mixing my own to 6.7 "weight" mix of Showa 5w and 10w.
 

mlheck

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664
I've completely rebuilt my front forks with Race Tech valves and love it. I learned though that great improvements can be made by adding more spacers (preload) to the stock spring. Do some research on measuring sag and set the front forks to 36mm of rider sag. There is another name for this but can't recall what it is at the moment. If your weight is over 180-190 though, then a spring upgrade may be needed to get the proper sag numbers. I believe the manual calls for 10w oil, but I upgraded to the Honda racing oil since is had better stability in temperature swings. Many will suggest Sonic 1.2kg/mm front springs, but I found them way to stiff. Racetech has a good chart that will figure the correct springs weights for your weight and the bike.

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Oct 2, 2013
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Canada
I've completely rebuilt my front forks with Race Tech valves and love it. I learned though that great improvements can be made by adding more spacers (preload) to the stock spring. Do some research on measuring sag and set the front forks to 36mm of rider sag. There is another name for this but can't recall what it is at the moment. If your weight is over 180-190 though, then a spring upgrade may be needed to get the proper sag numbers. I believe the manual calls for 10w oil, but I upgraded to the Honda racing oil since is had better stability in temperature swings. Many will suggest Sonic 1.2kg/mm front springs, but I found them way to stiff. Racetech has a good chart that will figure the correct springs weights for your weight and the bike.

Sent from my RAZR M using Tapatalk 2
What if you are over that particular weight? Do you have to upp the spring rate? Would it be wise to preload and get a different thicker oil?
 

mlheck

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If you are over that weight then it may be very hard to add more preload to get the proper sag. The more preload you try to add, the further and harder you have to push the cap before you can thread it into the fork. Preload also takes up available spring travel. Too much preload and you could hard stack the spring when to try to fully compress the front end. That would not be a good thing.

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Weatherford, TX
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'16 Versys 650LT
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1134
In my mind, when a fork oil change is truly NEEDED, is dependent on how you use your bike and whether there are any noticeable problems. None of the Honda service or owners manuals for bikes I've owned in the last 10+ years have mentioned any schedule for changing fork oil. I have to think that if it were very important or critical, it certainly would have been made a scheduled maintenance item. Ideally, if you were able to do the job yourself, you'd just do it as part of regular maintenance once every year or two since it's a cheap job. Not all of us are able to do this job ourselves however (or have the desire to) for one reason or another.

If I frequently used the ST for aggressive riding in the corners, I'd be sure the fork fluid was changed regularly (what that schedule is, I don't know). Aggressive riding is a case where suspension needs to be in top notch condition. If I used the bike in mostly straight line riding for daily commuting, I wouldn't worry about it until it became obvious that a fork fluid flush was needed, or at "X" miles, whatever that may be based on your own research.

I once had a well known dealer service department tell me that fork oil didn't need to be changed at all (I strongly disagreed with that by the way). I've gone as long as 50k to 60k miles (80k to 96k kilometers) before having the fork oil changed on an ST1100 that I used only for long distance trips. On another ST1100 that I often used to ride aggressively with, I changed the fork oil more often. I would probably have just made it a yearly, routine thing to do but this is one bit of maintenance I never got around to learning so I always left it up to a dealer to do which can get expensive.

So, it looks like no one is able to give you a definitive answer because Honda did not supply one. If you just want to be sure about your fork's health, dduelin's suggestion (post #3) is about as good a guide as any.
 

dduelin

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If you are over that weight then it may be very hard to add more preload to get the proper sag. The more preload you try to add, the further and harder you have to push the cap before you can thread it into the fork. Preload also takes up available spring travel. Too much preload and you could hard stack the spring when to try to fully compress the front end. That would not be a good thing.

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Not only these concerns but when you have to use excessive preload to set acceptable sag the bike tops out or nearly tops out the forks when the weight of the rider & cargo come off the bike. Unloading the suspension happens routinely when riding when we crest hills and rises and when the front wheel attempts to follow a drop off in the pavement. A goal of suspension tuning is to get the bike operating in the middle 1/3 of suspension travel so the upper and lower 1/3 are available when needed and the suspension is not upset by bump stops when topping and bottoming out.
 
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