I loosened up the bottom bolts while in the tree but they just keep turning. does anyone have a trick to stop the piece inside the fork from turn so I can unscrew the bolt? Don't want to drill head off if I can help it.
Or an electric one, mine was cheap..use air impact wrench....
You remove the bolt for a fork oil change?Snipped..................... I did have to drill on out one the last oil change also...............
In 35 years of pulling forks apart I've only come across one bolt that spun even with an impact wrench, and that was on an old neglected bike. Not sure if the loctite from your previous removal contributed to the problem, but as you say, its not necessary so not using it this time was the correct call.I am pretty sure an impact wrench would have been of no use.
I did have to drill on out one the last oil change also.
...You remove the bolt for a fork oil change?
The next time you need some help with a problem like this give drop me a note as I have a pretty complete shop and many specialized tools for rebuilding forks and I live just outside of Salinas. I am quite sure that an impact wrench would have removed the bottom bolt....
NOOO.....
I am having an issue with slower speed bobbing. I pulled it apart to inspect the mechanical components. I have Racetech Golds with adjuster caps. I also wanted to see the condition of the oil and how clean or dirty the part were. I change from the Racetech 5w on the first oil change because I could not get it stiff enough with the adjusters. I went with Redline 5w which was a definite improvement. The oil was very clean as were all the components when I pulled it apart (probably 15,000miles on it). I also wanted to take one spacer out to have a better range of adjustment on the preload.
But now comes the fun part...I was still suspisious that there was something wrong, maybe bushing causing some slight sticksion or something keeping the forks from responding to unpreceivable soft irregularities in the road. But all the bushings looked fine.
So I took the valving out of the tube and the valve off the end of the rods. this is a long story but the O rings that were on the needle were cut apart so natually debris could lodge in the orifice. But why would they be damaged? I call Racetech and informed Terry of this. I also informed him that the original instructions showed a slot for the O ring in the needle but mine did not have it. His said that they were old style (even though I had purchased just a 1 1/2 yrs ago) and that they were not made for an O ring and the oil goes up through the tube. Now you have to think that one through and the design of the valve to realize this sounded wrong. Well as I saw the picture here on the forum of another members needles I realized that mine seemed a lot shorter and when I aligned them with the valve saw that they would not even go past the exhaust hole not alone into the orifice to control the flow. And there was a slot for the O ring on his!
So I sent pictures and my opinion to Terry and he agreed with me that they had sent the wrong needles which I have been running for a year and a half. I am now awaiting the new needles and am anxious to see how real Gold valves preform. No wonder I had to change to heavier oil, there was no resistance to the flow.
By the way nice tool you made P.D.FRUTH! If it happens again I will try that.
Sounds good, Thanks.The next time you need some help with a problem like this give drop me a note as I have a pretty complete shop and many specialized tools for rebuilding forks and I live just outside of Salinas. I am quite sure that an impact wrench would have removed the bottom bolt.
dan
you use an impact to zap it back on, and don't worry about the torque spec. Standard shop operating procedure AFAIK. I've never seen one loosen in 35 years of wrenching on them.If you use an impact to zap it off, how will you hold it to torque it to spec on re-assembly?