Alternator harness leak on "92

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Alternator harness leak on "92 28A & o-ring replacement

Hey Guys

A friend asked me to look at his 1100 for an oil leak and determined it was coming from the harness through the 28A stator cover.

Is it a cap in there or just an epoxy potting that the wires go through. I assume if epoxy it is all brittle by now and any tweaking of the harness could disintegrate it further, correct? I was thinking of applying a new coating of epoxy to temporarily slow the leak some.
Would it be OK to remove the screw that holds the harness metal stay for a better looks see. Fairly certain the leak is not around the outside but where the wires go through.

Did a search here and it is not uncommon. TIA

JD
 

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The Cheese

It's epoxy. Dried up epoxy. Mine was doing the same until I replaced the alternator with the newer 40 amp. It seems they all get this same leak, eventually. Another member here used spray sealant with decent results. HERE is the thread. Also, HERE is a search for your problem.

I wish you luck on your repair. Your friend should join the community.
 
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Thanks Cheese

I have been leaning towards 2 products, first would be epoxy followed by the fuel tank emergency repair putty which is carried on most fire trucks and can be used on active gas leaks then dries hard. But the oil will be cleaned up first.
 
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Success with 3 hrs run time so far.

As an initial fix a 2 part quick set flowable epoxy was used in the area most prone to leaking around the wires and around the immediate cap area. After more consideration the final product applied over the entire area was MarineTex grey putty which I have used on boats previously. After mixing, application was via a wooden tongue depressor. It has dried super hard and covered the entire area with excellent adhesion.
 

The Cheese

Good news. Lets hope it lasts. Now to start buying parts for the 40 amp!
 

John OoSTerhuis

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.... As an initial fix a 2 part quick set flowable epoxy was used....
the final product applied over the entire area was MarineTex
Good for you, JD. What was the first epoxy you used? Assume this is the second one?:
http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

Do you think either one alone would do the job? TIA

Edit: LostBrit's product link in the other thread is dead...

Regards, John

via iPhone 4S
 
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OP
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That is the stuff John along with Permatex Perm Oxy. This was a one shot deal and overkill was the order of the day, the $25 spent for the epoxies paled in comparison to the $350 for the stator cover. Suspenders and belt here:)

Clean, clean, clean prior to application. After the initial clean with BrakeClean and lite compressed air I would come back to it and could feel an oily film. It was two days and a couple more cleanings later that all residual seepage seemed to be gone after the last engine run.

The OEM screw and wire harness hold down bracket was removed and would not be reused for the initial close quarter quick set epoxy followed by the Marinetex over everything following full cure times.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Thanks, JD. A picture would be nice. Tell your friend to install and monitor a voltmeter, AND join the online forums/community. Oh yeah, and to start saving for the 40amp upgrade parts. :)

John
 
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An update

After the initial leak repair and before releasing bike to owner it became apparent the O ring was also leaking. That's the way it goes with leaks, you start at the top and work your way down.

Seal was ordered and the initial plan was to stretch seal around cover and install. After seal arrival that plan went right out the window as it is very delicate. Plan B was removal of left swing arm pivot and pushing *** end back to pull stator cover rearward. With that done I was able to slip seal with the clearance provided between rotor bearing and stator cover. I used a straightened paper clip with a 90 degree hook end to help guide seal around rotor while working in that limited space. Success.

I recently did a follow up check and still dry.:D John, here is a pic after epoxies and before cover removal.
 

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John OoSTerhuis

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1058
Thanks, JD. hope you remembered to reconnect the neutral switch lead. Would not have thought your o-ring install method was possible. Wow.

John
 
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Another update

MC was shipped to Denver where owner was reunited with his ST and proceeded on a multiple week 4k mile tour out West and happy to report NO OIL LEAKS.:D
 

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ST1100Y

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...I was able to slip seal with the clearance provided between rotor bearing and stator cover. I used a straightened paper clip with a 90 degree hook end to help guide seal around rotor while working in that limited space.
Phew! That's some "surgery"...
No excessive stress on the RHS swing-arm bearing?
 

ST1100Y

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I always dropped swing-arm and prop-shaft for full access to alternator... the pivot-bearings are protected by some V-ring seals which seem a bit delicate to me...
 
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