fork cap will not budge

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I've elected to change oil in my forks. and the left cap unscrewed without any real effort. the right not so much. I put both tubes back into the triple tree and tightened the pinch bolts..still the cap will not budge! i',ve gone as far as to cut a 1.5" length of 17mm allen wrench , insert it and then slip a box wrench over it( extended with a 12" section of pipe)...then turn(yes the right direction) while striking the allen section on top with a ballpeen hammer. still no joy. my Clymer manual says that these are assembled , using chemical thread loc. so I also tried heat, and penetrating oil too. outwardly the cap flange looks to be sitting on the tube, just as one would expect..and the same as the other tube is( the one that offered no resistance) anyone have some insight as to how to get this cap moving?
 

ST1100Y

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I put both tubes back into the triple tree and tightened the pinch bolts...
AFAIK are you supposed to loosen the pinch bolts of the upper tree first...
No known thread-lock there, just sits in there by torque and the friction of the O-ring.
 
OP
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what is the rational in loosing the top bolts first? I can't see what that would do.....................I reviewed the manual and you're right. the thread locker is between the cap and dampener rod...still, this cap isn't moving. i've decided set up the wrenches, again, and use a "Spanish windlass" to apply tension on the loosening side. leave it over night. visiting it a few times to heat it up and maybe even cool it back down using penetrating oil. tapping also.... a night of this might turn the trick. cutting the cap off, in place has to be the very last resort, since that'll necessitate rebuilding both forks, OUY!
 
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what is the rational in loosing the top bolts first? I can't see what that would do...
The pinch bolts on the top of the triple tree put force on the outside of the fork tube right where the threads are, making it more difficult to remove the fork cap. I've always loosened them, so I don't know how much difference it makes if you don't, but if you haven't already loosened them you should.

Also, get a 17mm hex driver that mounts to a 3/8" or 1/2" drive extension, and use a ratchet, preferably one that is 12-15" long so you can get better leverage.
 
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Just to be clear on what ST1100Y said - I think - the top pinch bolt needs to be loose, as, believe it or not, it will exert a clamping force on that fork cap as well. Keep the lower pinch tight to keep the fork tube from turning.
 
OP
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sorry, I failed to mention that when I reinserted the tubes into the tube clamps, the tube tops were placed about 5" higher than the top most clamps..this would allow me to work on 'em unencumbered. TMUS I knew you'd show up! currently there's a box wrench and pipe, that yield a 21" arm. I don't know how much the Spanish winlass is generating, but I'm pretty sure, any more and i'll be looking on ebay for replacement parts for the bike, might have to anyway!
 
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Just to be clear on what ST1100Y said - I think - the top pinch bolt needs to be loose, as, believe it or not, it will exert a clamping force on that fork cap as well. Keep the lower pinch tight to keep the fork tube from turning.
My wife is sometimes very observant when it comes to mechanical things. So here am I tugging on the fork cap and it won't loosen, so she makes the connection, pipes up, and suggests to me that I should loosen those top pinch bolts. Yes, dear, I knew that. I didn't have any trouble after that.
 
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Put those snipes and allen keys and hammers away, get yourself a 17mm HEX bit in 1/2 inch Drive (preferebly an impact bit) and use a good 1/2" air impact. Quick and painless. I would almost be certain you are going to break something doing this any other way....
Good luck hope this helps
 

Ron

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Put those snipes and allen keys and hammers away, get yourself a 17mm HEX bit in 1/2 inch Drive (preferebly an impact bit) and use a good 1/2" air impact. Quick and painless. I would almost be certain you are going to break something doing this any other way....
Good luck hope this helps
If you don't have access to an impact gun or shop air, a manual impact is about $15 around here. That, the hex bit socket, and a 3 pound hammer will probably do it. You don't have to hit it with a big swing, just let the hammer's weight do the work.
 

ST1100Y

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...the tube tops were placed about 5" higher than the top most clamps...
Well, you'd kept that a secret...
I never needed an air impact wrench for them caps to loosen, a standard 17mm hex bit on a 1/2" ratchet, steering tilted to the left limiter, left leg against the right side of the bike, inset hex bit in cap, a slight bang with the palm on the ratchet handle, and out it comes... on all of my 3 STs as well as the others I'd worked at...
Any signs of corrosion on top edge of the fork tube?
Got a heat gun avail? Maybe a gentle warming might help?
 

ST Gui

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a manual impact is about $15 around here. That, the hex bit socket, and a 3 pound hammer will probably do it. You don't have to hit it with a big swing, just let the hammer's weight do the work.
+1 An electric impact might work well too. If you've used a fair about of Hulk force and it doesn't start to turn more of the same might damage the cap's hex port. That could lead to unkind thoughts.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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You've gotten good advice above, Wally. A 17mm hex-bit socket is a good thing to have in the toolbox for ST1100 DIYers.

I guess the last resort would to be to take the recalcitrant fork to a shop.

BTW, just out of curiosity, when was this fork cap last removed and who reinstalled it? The torque value for them is only 168 in lbs. I could see possibly cross-threading the left cap but not the right one...

Good luck.

John

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I guess the last resort would to be to take the recalcitrant fork to a shop.
+1 on that. They'll have the right tools for the job. Given your somewhat makeshift tool arrangement, and the stubbornness of the cap, forcing things at home doesn't seem to make sense. Pull the fork and take it somewhere where they can hit it with an impact wrench.
 

Reginald

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sorry, I failed to mention that when I reinserted the tubes into the tube clamps, the tube tops were placed about 5" higher than the top most clamps..this would allow me to work on 'em unencumbered. TMUS I knew you'd show up! currently there's a box wrench and pipe, that yield a 21" arm. I don't know how much the Spanish winlass is generating, but I'm pretty sure, any more and i'll be looking on ebay for replacement parts for the bike, might have to anyway!
I just went through this. What freed mine was a 17mm hex key from Sears and a 3 1/2 foot iron pipe from home depot (used as a cheater bar on the large hex key). Be sure to keep the hex key well seated in the cap; the Harbor Freight hex key I was using at first slipped and bunged up the cap a bit. The Harbor Freight hex key has rounded corners at the bottom, but the hex key from Sears is straight at the bottom. I had to use the full length of the cheater bar to free it.
 

Nashcat

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Since you've already cut a short piece of Allen wrench to use, just drop a 17mm socket over the short hex and have at it with a ratchet or impact. Kroil works better than most for penetrating oil. You might try giving it a good smack with a hammer, on top of the plug, just to shake thing loose a bit.

John
 
OP
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I've tried all suggestions, except for the air impact, and pb/krol p.oils! I have been using some other penetrant oil. and the tube just turned in it's clamps...the pinch bolts started talking to me and any tighter and I'm pretty sure they'll break...so, I took the tube down to the local Honda dealer and they took a shot at it..i heard 'em blasting away with an airgun for about 10 minutes....came back to the waiting room and handed it back--INTACT!!! OUY! so it official- it's in there permanently( probably has never been off and fell victim of corrosion)..I'm going to reinstall it and ride out the season. sometime between now and fall, I'm going to get a pair offa ebay and rebuild them with the intention of changing out, once the weather turns to rain here. thanks to all who responded P.S. while down at the dealers I noticed that they just added a st1300 with 33k miles (year unkown to me) looked pretty tempting- aint it just the way these things go?
 
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John OoSTerhuis

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.... probably has never been off and fell victim of corrosion)...
Just for the record, what year is your ST1100 and how many miles on it? Curious minds wish to know. :)

If it's any consolation, you're the first that I know of that's ever had this happen... Personally, I'd buy a whole salvage fork now and finish the fluid R&R and GO RIDE. Screw around with the frozen fork tube later, Waldo. Or maybe just don't bother and throw it straight in the trash! JMHO

John
 
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i heard 'em blasting away with an airgun for about 10 minutes....came back to the waiting room and handed it back--INTACT!!! OUY! so it official- it's in there permanently( probably has never been off and fell victim of corrosion)
that's amazing, as the tube itself is full of oil spraying around, so how could it corrode? I wonder if the PO put red loctite on it by mistake?
 
OP
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All is posible... Current miles are 76.5kmiles... I bought the bike used. At about 40k... at the time I bought it. Previous maintenance was unknown to me , since it was purchased thru a dealer. I' ve had a few crosscountries( east coast n back) and slowly been going thru the various systems in an effort to assure myself it's in the best condition I could reasonably expect( winter time projects)....front end was about the last ( of course it never really ends)
 
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