No Start Traced to engine stop/kill switch-Question

I took my ST1300 in to get the new tires installed this week. In any case I went to pick it up today and when we rolled to the shop door to leave it would not turn over. All lights came on properly it seemed. Battery a little weak, but started it on Monday no problems. The service guy and I spent the next 20 minutes pulling and checking fuses and looking at connections etc.

During our many attempts to start, as we could get it to turn over by bridging the starter relay, we must have flipped the run/stop switch a half dozen times. On one attempt the switch must have hit the "sweet spot" and the bike fired.

Apparently when this switch was in the run position, but stuck down a little too far (maybe just my impression, but repeatable), it would not fire.

So my question(s) is/are what should I do:

1) Should I look at getting a new one?
2) Is it likely just dirty from non use? (I don't use this switch normally, and most of the winter it's been in the cold)
3) Take it apart and clean/re-install?
4) Leave it alone dammit, it's working?

Try #3 because of #2 . I think there's a pun in there

A friend had a similar issue.... switch was dirty, got it to work after cycling a few times. Taking it apart and cleaning it is the best thing to do. I doubt you need a new one.

Honda recommends that you leave the switch on all the time, which I don't do because it helps encourage having its position in muscle memory if you actually need it. I think that's also helped keep mine clean.

A decade-old bike is probably in need of a good cleaning. Use a good contact cleaner and not something that will attract and hold dirt like WD-40.

--Mark

Mikedo said:

So my question(s) is/are what should I do:

Click to expand...

I had this happen on an ST1100. It was permanently cured by taking the switch apart and and spraying the innards with Radio Shack tuner cleaner.

[QUOTE;1734325]It does bring up the question on how many of us actually use this switch. [/QUOTE]

I use the kill switch every time I get on and off the bike.

I had this problem and ended up stripping both switch groups down and thoroughly cleaning and re-protecting them with ACF50 anti corrosion grease....

I did both as I was also having the high/low beam issue...

Lack of use is not the only thing that stops them working, so does years of dirt and surface oxidisation of the switch contacts......

The starter button/kill switch issue can also lead to problems with the starter relay due to insufficient current getting to the coil energising circuit..... which can lead to the relay getting fried.....
The voltage drop at the energising coil causes it to chatter or not work at all... the connector to the relay can get very hot and cause corrosion problems there.... so if you are doing the starter and kill switches, you may want to check and clean the starter relay connections as well......

[QUOTE;1734325]It does bring up the question on how many of us actually use this switch.[/QUOTE]
I made it practice to always stop the engine with quick OFF-ON on the kill-switch and, if the temps are in the range, keep the ignition on till the fan stops (it mostly kicks in during arrival and backing up into the parking spot...).

And upon 'first awakening' after the winter months I flick the kill switch like 3~4 times before hitting the starter button, in a believe that this somewhat 'primes' the fuel pump/establishes fuel pressure :wink:

The switch-sets also receive annual cleansing/lubrication... electronic contact cleaners or ACF-50 are the weapons of choice :wink: (just don't use WD-40 or such...)

And I never experienced any issues with a failing kill-switch, stuck turn-signal lever, or others...

I use mine all the time. I don't know how many cycles it's rated for but it's how I stop the engine before reaching for the Ign sw.