Shock Tips

ChucksKLRST

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OK now Tires are changed on the DR650, Tires have been changed on my SIL XT225, The rear tire has been changed on the NT700. Also the rear rubber cushion and inserts have be replaced and the bikes are all back together again. Now it it time for the rear Shock to be removed and replaced on the ST1300. Looking for any tips, hints, or suggestions that anybody might have that is not covered in the Service manual. One question.... Is it better to remove the rear wheel to change the shock or not? Thanks guys.
 
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dduelin

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It's not strictly necessary to remove the wheel but it doesn't take long and gives more room to work the shock out of the tight quarters.
 

Scooter

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I changed mine out last month, left the rear wheel on and didn't have any difficulties. If my memory serves me correctly, I had the wheel off when I took the shock off the first time to service the preload reservoir and ran into issues trying to get some of the bolts back into the right side step holder. Leaving the wheel on also allows you to shove a lever under the tire in order to lift up the swingarm in order to get the bottom bolt back in. Also pay attention to the routing of the reservoir hose before you remove the shock from the bike...
 

dduelin

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If this is the first time the shock is coming out be sure to reverse the lower shock bolt when reinstalling and insert it left to right with the nut outboard so next time you won't have to disturb the pillion foot peg hanger.
 

Reginald

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Is it better to remove the rear wheel to change the shock or not?
I think it's easier without the wheel. I saw where someone didn't. I used a jack with a board to lift and lower the swing arm to align the shock with the swing arm mounting.

Loosen the right foot peg hanger to get the bolt out. I didn't remove it, but loosened it.

On the top bolt use tape on a box wrench to hold the nut. You don't want to drop it in the black hole there.

Be sure to map how the pre-load hose is routed so you can get it back in correctly.

When pulling the shock out I loosed the battery box so I could lift it out of the way more easily.
 

Highrider

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I changed my rear shock last week and installed a Racetech unit. If you work on a lift that allows the rear tire to drop a little more there is no need to remove the rear wheel, you just need to remove the battery and lift the fuel tank to get at the nut on the upper mount. Everything is fairly easy to get at from there.
If you don't use a lift, it will still come out but it will be a bit snug.
 

Throttlejockey

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I was wondering about that top nut. I was going to remove mine for some reason and came to the conclusion that the nut on the back is one of the dumbest setups on this bike, which is practically impossible to get to.
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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So I got the old shock out. the Major items that I removed or unbolted to gain access are; Seat bracket, Battery (loosened battery box so I can flex it out of the way), Rear Brake Fluid Reservoir, Brake line bracket. Loosened the Foot Peg Step Holder, Removed Knob from the shock adjuster and promptly lost the little ball bearing. ( No problem, the new shock has another one.) Have to give my arthritic hands a rest now and go take care of some other family business. Might get get back to the Shock R&R this afternoon. This removal process reminded me of trying to remove someones gallbladder. So the old shock is out on the OR table (Lift) now. I believe the new shock installation is not going to be as easy as the removal.
 
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Chuck, is the new shock the stock unit, or aftermarket? Just curious. I've heard good reports on the Penske unit, but $$$.

Oops. BB beat me with the question.
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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Chuck, is the new shock the stock unit, or aftermarket? Just curious. I've heard good reports on the Penske unit, but $$$.

Oops. BB beat me with the question.
OEM replacement Chuck?


OEM replacement, as I got a very good price and I most likely will only have this bike for another year or two. So did not want to put big $s into a shock replacement. Hey I have been riding on a 11 year 123k mile shock, anything will be an improvement. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...BER/parts.html
 

Reginald

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I believe the new shock installation is not going to be as easy as the removal.
Just as easy for me. What really helped me was being able to move the swing arm up or down with my jack. Down to create more room to slip it in. Up to match the bottom of the shock to the swing arm mount.
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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Job is done. New OEM shock has been installed and bike put back together. Won't have a chance to test ride it further than the neighborhood until next week.

A big thank you to forum member 'dduelin' for his tip on reversing the lower shock bolt so if there is a next time, the foot peg hanger does not need to be removed.

Also a great big thanks to "Reginald" for his tips on only loosening not removing the footpeg hanger. Saved a lot of grief during reassembly. Also a big thanks for the tip about using a box end wrench and taping the acorn nut to the wrench when re-installing the upper Shock bolt. I used masking tape. Worked very good and keep the frustration to a minimum. All in all, not that difficult with the proper tools and information on on hand.

All the residence of the garage are tucked away in there proper places and at the ready when called upon.
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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Chuck, you didn't forget to set the rebound dampening on the new shock now, did you??? Just checking.. ;)
Nope, set it up as per manual. Preload; 7 clicks from bottom. Rebound; one full turn off of hard. Will then go from there when I get a chance to GO RIDE.
 
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Thanks for the tips Chuck. This may come in handy for me soon as I need to work on my shock. I've got a preload adjuster that is frozen. Been putting it off but now that warm weather is here, I've got to get'er done. Hopefully I can get it unstuck but if not, I may have to replace the whole $hock assembly.
 
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Just one question, Chuck... Do you ride your bike, or do you just keep it clean until you work on it? I can tell from the photos that you are organized and clean, but the bikes are too clean. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for the tips... should have read this thread before starting on my buddies.
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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Just one question, Chuck... Do you ride your bike, or do you just keep it clean until you work on it? I can tell from the photos that you are organized and clean, but the bikes are too clean. Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for the tips... should have read this thread before starting on my buddies.
Vinny, The bikes get ridden. I have put on the 2003 ST1300 123,000 miles. The 2010 NT700, 26000+ miles on it, The 2009 Wee 34,000, and the DR650 I have had it for a year and a half and have but 3700 miles on it. Yes I try to ride when ever I can, This year the weather has, so far not cooperated as well as in past years.
 
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Vinny, The bikes get ridden. I have put on the 2003 ST1300 123,000 miles. The 2010 NT700, 26000+ miles on it, The 2009 Wee 34,000, and the DR650 I have had it for a year and a half and have but 3700 miles on it. Yes I try to ride when ever I can, This year the weather has, so far not cooperated as well as in past years.
I was just ribbing you a little... I should strive to be a little more like you.:)
 
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ChucksKLRST

ChucksKLRST

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I was just ribbing you a little... I should strive to be a little more like you.:)

I know you were ribbing me. That OK, ;)

The lift that you see in the pictures does help me keep the bikes cleaner then if I did not have it. Then of course I am retired and with snow on the ground what else do I have to do.:D Looking forward to some warmer weather so as I can GO RIDE.
 
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