Oil pan plug stripped

Islanders

Joined
Aug 4, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Missoula
Bike
2002 ST1300
ST'ers,

I have a 2004 ST1300. I stripped my oil plug (the head of the plug), and now can't get the oil plug loose to change the oil. I've tried different sizes wrenches to try to get it off, but it's at the point now where it's nice and "round" and no sized wrench is grabbing hold of the nut at all. Is there anything I can do myself to get it loose, or do I just have to bring it in to the shop? (What would they do? Would they drill a new hole through the plug?)

Thanks,
Dan.
 
As with any stuck bolt there are usually several ways to remove them. Drilling and using an ez out could be a bit messy. Mig weld another nut on top or a bolt might be less messy. This is assuming that vise grips were of no use.
 
Byron said:
This is assuming that vise grips were of no use.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'd be surprised that you couldn't get that bolt off with a vise grip at this point since it's likely threaded into an aluminum drain pan...
 
Vice grips would be first shot.
They also make several commercially available sockets and such for rounded off bolts. One of them may be of use if the vice grips fail.
 
Try the vice grips if that doesn't do it and you can't get in there to grind some flats on it you could try a chisel to get a bite on it and tap it with a hammer to break it free. Steer clear of cheesey import sockets or 12 sided ones down the road although it shouldn't be that tight. Good luck!
 
I can't add to anything said unless it's possible to wedge a small pipe wrench between the cooling fins there. A pipe wrench will exert more grip but I don't think it'll fit

When you get this fixed be sure to follow torque specs at 22 lbf-ft. Use 6 point sockets. Won't happen again.
 
Last edited:
It was the first time I ever used the torque wrench on the drain plug I already had it out after reinstalling the front wheel so figured why not.
 
SteveST1300 said:
It was the first time I ever used the torque wrench on the drain plug I already had it out after reinstalling the front wheel so figured why not.
Click to expand...

Just for curiosity I will have to try it on mine next time, just to see if my 'feels' right method is about the same as the recommended spec. But 22lbs is probably about where I snug to.
 
Before I did any drilling I would try a cold chisel. get a bite in one of the flats first by tapping at 90 deg to the center of the bolt, then angle the chisel in the correct direction so when you tap again, it wants to force the bolt to rotate.
 
Do NOT use vice grips! You will cause more damage than you already have. Purchase the correct tool (socket) as mentioned above. Vice grips could damage the cooling fins then you would be replacing the entire piece!
Put a few drops of pb blaster or penetrating oil on it then use the socket.
 
T_C said:
Someone actually uses a spec for that? Never would of thunk it....
Click to expand...

I hope nobody uses the 20 foot pounds of torque that the service manual states for the oil filter :rofl1:
 
T_C said:
just to see if my 'feels' right method is about the same as the recommended spec
Click to expand...

When I was in the Army there was a sergeant that used "feels-Right" on an APC drain plug. It came out during maneuvers and he bought the new engine; ouch. Also, had other bad things happen like track grousers come off, in deep mud of course, due improper torque specs. I'd hate to be in the middle of nowhere and important pieces come off my bike.

To date, auto shops have stripped 3 drain plugs on me. One shop wanted to charge me for the new oil pan. :mad: On the other two I was able to get off with a pipe wrench and replace.

I think the reason this is stripped is over torqueing. How about that lecture. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom