Valve covers (cylinder head covers)

Any reason not to swap out cover,washers,gasket from one engine to another? Instead of buying new ones.

As long as the donor gaskets are still supple and not dry rotted, cracked, or hardened they will probably be fine.

DeanR said:

Any reason not to swap out cover,washers,gasket from one engine to another? Instead of buying new ones.

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check the thickness of the washer/grommets before using them. They compress over time and become unusable.

So the head cover swap itself is no issue? Only dependent on the condition of the rubber stuff?

Honda's cast procedures are normally precise enough that this wouldn't cause any issues. I however always replace rubber gaskets and grommets and do not reuse them... After careful cleaning all sealing surfaces (and check that there no obstacles or crumbs in the oil gallery), I glue the gasket on the cover with a thin layer of Pattex Classic glue (prevents them from falling off during installation and provides additional sealing), and further apply a dip of engine sealer into the corners, where the crescent-shaped parts meets the vertical surface (cause if they would leak, it comes from there). While firmly holding the cover in place with one hand, new grommets into bolt holes and carefully insert them bolts with the other (you don't want to cross-thread those...), apply 12Nm in cross-sequence (do not over-torque! You don't want to deal with a stripped bolt there...)

Honda's cast procedures are normally precise enough that this wouldn't cause any issues. I however always replace rubber gaskets and grommets and do not reuse them... After careful cleaning all sealing surfaces (and check that there no obstacles or crumbs in the oil gallery), I glue the gasket on the cover with a thin layer of Pattex Classic glue (prevents them from falling off during installation and provides additional sealing), and further apply a dip of engine sealer into the corners, where the crescent-shaped parts meets the vertical surface (cause if they would leak, it comes from there). While firmly holding the cover in place with one hand, new grommets into bolt holes and carefully insert them bolts with the other (you don't want to cross-thread those...), apply 12Nm in cross-sequence (do not over-torque! You don't want to deal with a stripped bolt there...)

DeanR said:

So the head cover swap itself is no issue? Only dependent on the condition of the rubber stuff?

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I was going to ask you earlier Dean, what's the motivation for swapping the covers themselves, that seems like an unusual thing to do.

dwalby said:

I was going to ask you earlier Dean, what's the motivation for swapping the covers themselves, that seems like an unusual thing to do.

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My right cover may be leaking a little, so I thought maybe I'll just pull the one off my unused bike (with half the miles). It was just to avoid the pretty expensive rubber bits, but I may just get them anyway.

So, some might not like this, but I say go ahead and try it. After install, let it run for a while before you put the plastic back on. If you don't see any sepage, go for it and just keep an eye on it for a while. There is very little likelyhood of the gasket giving way like a dam, so if it does go to leaking, it won't be the end of the world.

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IMHO, all ST1100 valve cover oil weeps/seeps/leaks can be fixed with Pro Honda Hondabond HT sealant (in the half moons per the manual). The grommets would be an additional step, BTDT. Do not overtorque the cover bolts in an attempt to stop a leak, the bolts have a shoulder that bottoms on the head and they will snap if over tightened.

My cover gaskets are 23 years old, 169K, and didn't even need the HT in the moons until ~120K. This is not atypical in the ST community. The next valve clearance check I may soak them in some denatured alcohol to try and freshen them up.

Martin's comment about 'gluing' the cover gaskets to the covers is a good idea. Mine are, but I don't know what Honda used; nothing in the manual... For folks actually replacing their gaskets with new, what's available (and recommended) on this side of the big pond to adhere the new ones to the covers? TIA

John

I have some Yamabond 4 semi-drying liquid gasket that I'll probably use. There is also some Permatex high-temp silicone gasket maker in the box.

John OoSTerhuis said:

Mine are, but I don't know what Honda used; nothing in the manual...

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Hondabond IIRC... same on the handlebar grips.

Pattex just sticks quicker/better so the gaskets, especially the rings around the plug holes and the 'inboard' side won't fall off while getting the covers on.

I used a tiny bead of Permatex Ultra Blue gasket maker around the gasket and it held it nicely in place. I like it because it is also easy to remove from the metal surfaces in the future, unlike some gasket glues.

Thin film ofHi-temp grey or black Dean, extra dod in each corner of cam-end plugs. (should sound familar).

;1734960]usuing the spray to hold them in place[/quote]

Spray?

Another question for my older thread.

Any reason to clean out the stained inside of an oldish valve cover while it's off? If so, what to use?

Oh, for certain, those should be sparkly clean inside . . . . . methinks you have too much time on your hands Dean!

Bush said:

methinks you have too much time on your hands Dean!

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pretty much.

ST1100Y said:

and further apply a dip of engine sealer into the corners, where the crescent-shaped parts meets the vertical surface (cause if they would leak, it comes from there).

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I never heard the term, 'engine sealer'. What is this? Similar to RTV silicone for engines?

SMSW said:

I never heard the term, 'engine sealer'. What is this? Similar to RTV silicone for engines?

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...engine sealant is a general term pointing/referring to silicone based sealants dedicated for high temperature usage (contrary to products like window sealant, etc...) on internal combustion engines, whilst RTV silicone is a more specific term, mostly ID-ing a two-component (base plus curative) silicone rubber which is frequently used for creating molds/casts (dentures, model building...)...

Lets agree on things like Permatex or Loctite Superflex then... ;-)