Can't Remove Final Drive Oil Filler Cap - Suggestions?

I ran into a problem removing the final drive oil filler cap on my 2004 ST1300 yesterday. Over the years it has become rounded off and now I can't remove it. I started with a socket wrench and then made things worse with vice grips. I sprayed some WD-40 on it last night and I am looking for some suggestions on what to try next.

Also, I drained the final drive oil and did my best to refill it from the drain while it was on the side stand. Would it be safe to ride the ST about 5 miles to the dealer?

I've had this problem with autos,... shops used 12 point sockets and over torque. I used a small pipe wench to remove them. A pipe wrench grips harder as more torque is applied. Vice grips use constant torque to the amount. The correct torque for this is in the service manual, as I remember, at 9 lbf-ft. It wasn't in my hand manual.

TRNewtown said:

Also, I drained the final drive oil and did my best to refill it from the drain while it was on the side stand. Would it be safe to ride the ST about 5 miles to the dealer?

Click to expand...

NO from past exp. DO NOT drive the bike with out any final drive fluid in the pumpkin. it will get hot after about a mile *even at low speed* and start to wear the gear, and melt the rubber ring..
Best bet is to remove the tire and unbolt the pumpkin off of the drive shaft housing and take just the pumpkin..
another trick is if you can remove it all of the way and lay it flat on the gear without the rubber on it.. Take a small dremmel and make a "slot" for a flat head. Then get what is called a "hammering or punch" impact.. *small hand held device* that holds a impact bit like a flat head tip. That you put pressure on and Strike with a hammer or dead blow on the top like a punch.
Just make sure its flat and secure or you could slip and damage the pumpkin.

TRNewtown said:

Also, I drained the final drive oil and did my best to refill it from the drain while it was on the side stand. Would it be safe to ride the ST about 5 miles to the dealer?

Click to expand...

That part of the bike takes a lot of abuse, and you don't want to run it under-lubed. The capacity of the pumpkin is about 5.5 ounces, and I think you'd have a hard time getting that much in there on the side stand. You could probably fill it close to properly laying the bike on its side.

A couple of things to try: Heat the area around the cap. The threads may let go enough to unscrew the cap. You may be able to get the cap off by drilling a pilot hole in the center of the head and running a screw extractor into it.

You've probably figured this out, but the #1 rule of changing any kind of fluid is always remove the filler cap before doing anything else. The #2 rule is don't over-torque the fasteners. 9 lb-ft is just barely snug. Some people can do it by feel, but you can't go wrong using a torque wrench.

--Mark

Here is an image of a set sold by Sears.


Tools like this are basically the opposite of an easy out. Instead of grabbing the inside of a hole they grab the outside of what is left of a bolt or nut. Just tap the appropriate size over the bolt and unscrew. An impact driver may be the best option as it will apply constant pressure down while loosening. This set was less that $30.

The head may shear off in the process but the threaded part should remove using your fingers afterwards.

I'd drain it. Tip it over on it's side and put a measured amount in and go ride.
Order a replacement and a drain bolt and crush washer while you're at it and don't worry about it until the parts come in.

+1 on getting the fill port off before removing the drain plug and working yourself into a corner.
The other lessons replace stuff that is starting to round off before it rounds off and use the 6 point not 12 point socket to give you more surface area.

The fill cap might just have it's o-ring stuck to the pumpkin unless it's massively over tightened. The outer diameter gives you a large surface to crack it with a small chisel to break it free. Some gentle heat might help. I don't think you're at a point to throw money at the dealer.

What holds the breather cap on? Might even be able to fill it that way.

You will need to get the old cap off as the "O" ring is stuck after being put on to tight, you will need to replace it and get a quality socket that wont do that again. You could always just refill the gear oil through the drain plug to ride the bike for now while waiting for a replacement cap.

TRNewtown said:

I ran into a problem removing the final drive oil filler cap on my 2004 ST1300 yesterday. Over the years it has become rounded off and now I can't remove it. I started with a socket wrench and then made things worse with vice grips. I sprayed some WD-40 on it last night and I am looking for some suggestions on what to try next.

Also, I drained the final drive oil and did my best to refill it from the drain while it was on the side stand. Would it be safe to ride the ST about 5 miles to the dealer?

Click to expand...

Lots of good ideas here but before I cut slots or drilled anything out I would file or grind down the flats of the bolt so that an impact socket would fit. Penetrating oil allowed to soak in overnight. Then heat it with a heat gun, but be careful to not get too hot. Put the tightest socket you can find on there and remove with an impact gun making sure it is rotating the plug counterclockwise. Replace with a new plug making sure the o ring is lubed.

Another trick you can try is use your vice grips on the outer diameter of the plug. That is where the O-ring is and your applying torque in the direct area. Heat the pumpkin and not the drain plug up if you like.
Your going to have a buy a new drain plug, so don't worry about it, it's already damaged.

If you're trying to get ready for moonshine etc. PM me I'm only about an hour away. We'll get it off and get you squared away.

I appreciate all of the suggestions and comments.

Here is an update and some questions:
- I have not ridden and will not ride the bike until I am sure it has the proper amount of final drive oil in it. Of course Sunday was one of the best riding days of the year so far.
- The cap is still stuck and I will continue to spray the stuck oil cap with WD-40.
- I will try to file the cap to create a flat spot for the socket to grab.
- A new final drive oil filler cap will be at the dealer on Friday.
- Byron - What is the name of the Sears tool set you provided a picture of? It might be worth a try.
- blrfl - Looks like I broke both rule #1 & rule #2 of fluid changes.
- st1300r - I am not heading for Moonshine, but appreciate your offer. I am going to PM Randy who lives in the next town over and maybe he will have the proper tool to remove the cap. I don't own an impact wrench and would probably need some help if heat or chisels are required.

Thanks again.
Tom

TRNewtown said:

I will continue to spray the stuck oil cap with WD-40

Click to expand...

PB Blaster. Much better.

Tom, first PM sent. call. I have 2 of those caps. Yes U can have 1. I can remove stuck cap, have done it. So, call me. I have some X tomorrow, packing & working on 2 carbs I got to get done.

TRNewtown said:

I ran into a problem removing the final drive oil filler cap on my 2004 ST1300 yesterday. Over the years it has become rounded off and now I can't remove it. I started with a socket wrench and then made things worse with vice grips. I sprayed some WD-40 on it last night and I am looking for some suggestions on what to try next.

Also, I drained the final drive oil and did my best to refill it from the drain while it was on the side stand. Would it be safe to ride the ST about 5 miles to the dealer?

Click to expand...

Tom to help U out took picture of the tools we talked about. Hope the picture works.
Make a purchase first than give the punch a sharp whack with hammer. The black marks is were U need to hit. From the rear of bike counter clockwise.
Learned this in Honda school. Worked for me. May X's
Will get together & fix those Moto lights.
How about the cap? like I said have 2?

Tom
PM sent

^^BUMP^^ on the PB Blast
Just had a thought about getting the oil out.. If you have a marine shop they will have a "pump" for the oil change on a inboard motor.. you could just "suck" out the old and put in the new

TRNewtown said:

- Byron - What is the name of the Sears tool set you provided a picture of? It might be worth a try.

Click to expand...

[h=1]Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out[/h]

The filler cap has been loosened! Randy (Rulbe) stopped by and within two minutes the filler cap was loosened. It took more time to explain what he had done than to actually loosen the filler cap. The technique involved using a ball peen hammer and a punch with a sharp tip to break the seal and rotate the filler cap slightly. This was exactly the process recommended by Bob (Acedantinne). Many thanks to Randy and Bob for their help with this issue.

Some things I have learned from this experience:
- Moving near Randy has reduced trips to the dealer.
- When replacing fluids, make sure the filler cap opens before draining any fluids.
- I need to upgrade my current socket set with a better quality set.
- It would help to remove the saddlebag when opening the final drive oil filler cap to allow me to see the socket when I am trying to loosen the filler cap.
- Perform maintenance like this during the Winter so I don't miss any great Spring riding days.

I pick up the new filler cap from the dealer on Friday and plan on taking a long ride this weekend. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!

Tom

Tom
Happy to help out! Hope you get a good ride this weekend!

Randy