Shopping for new torque wrench: Split-Beam or Dial?

Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
1,857
Location
houston, tx
Looking to add a high-quality torque wrench, most likely a Precision Instruments.

Looking for feedback (likes\dislikes) for those using a split-beam or dial type, or both.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,634
Location
Jacksonville
Bike
GL1800 R1200RT NC700
2024 Miles
006739
STOC #
6651
I've got both but almost always use the clicker type because you can use it any orientation without regard for having to be able to see the scale. I really just use the beam type to check the accuracy of the other ones.
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
4,950
Age
62
Location
New Jersey
Bike
st1300 '04
STOC #
7163
I use the clicker type not the dial or beam so I can feel it without looking.
Back the click type off to about 20% of full scale when not in use.

The cheesy ones from harbor freight claim 4% accuracy. My guess is having one calibrated costs about the same as the wrench itself :)
 

v8-7

Site Supporter
Joined
Jul 13, 2010
Messages
1,187
Location
Bradenton, Fl
The harbor freight torque wrenches tested very well by Car Craft and by others as well.

Google harbor freight torque wrench accuracy


http://blog.harborfreight.com/car-craft-reviews-torque-wrench/

My 1/2 inch works great .

The 3/8ths doesn't always "click" but you can feel a slight bump where it was supposed to click.
So caution is required on lower value settings .

I don 't own the 1/4 inch, but may pick one up next time it's on sale .
 

PopJack

Die young, after a long life.
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
760
Location
Oak Ridge, Tennessee
Bike
2005 ST1300
STOC #
8220
I've got both but almost always use the clicker type because you can use it any orientation without regard for having to be able to see the scale. I really just use the beam type to check the accuracy of the other ones.
What he said... actually, exactly what he said.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,115
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
Ok, I'll start this off by saying I don't know. For many years I've used a clicker type torque wrench. Probably a lot more than most people. If there was a torque spec, I used that wrench. And a number of mechanics have told me that within a few months of buying one, they go out of adjustment. But, again, I would make a large bet that they are either voicing their belief or guess. Perhaps it was based on their experience with maybe one or two t-wrenches, but certainly not based on a decent sampling of wrenches tested carefully over a period of months and years. I've read precious few long term tests of tools or anything, for that matter, that gave useful information on durability and accuracy.

I thought of building a jig - a shaft held by two ball bearing pillow blocks with an arm welded perpendicular to the shaft 1' long, and a nut welded to the end of the shaft. With the shaft turned so the arm was horizontal, and by hanging a weight from the end of the arm, I could put the torque wrench on the nut and see if it clicked when, say, a 20 lb weight (20 foot lbs) was just lifted by the wrench. I never did. And I know nobody who has practical experience calibrating torque wrenches - someone who can say which ones hold their accuracy best.

Consider this. The beam type with a pointer moving over a scale is very very simple. Its accuracy depends on the characteristics of the metal shaft (and not being dropped). You cannot read the scale to more than maybe + or - a few foot lbs. The click type is also pretty simple. Having taken one apart, the mechanism depends on a spring inside. And we know that springs can lose tension over time. If this type is well designed and in use the spring is kept well within its tolerances, it too should hold accuracy for quite a while. Note my use of the word should. I'm guessing (ruminating, actually). What these devices do in the real world is another story. Finally, the dial type has to have some kind of rack and pinion or wire pulling on a lever mechanism. This is going to be more complicated than the first two types, and is probably more subject to damage from drops or hard use.

Today they make (expensive electronic) torque wrenches with small strain gages glued to the steel beam. Scales are made with these gages, and are pretty accurate and durable, but don't forget that scales are tested and certified regularly. In the real world, we wrench on our bikes in all sorts of positions, and dials and gages are often not easily watched from a vantage point perpendicular to the gage (for accuracy in reading it). For my money, I prefer the clicker type. I have 3 of these and one beam/pointer type. And, I confess that I close my eyes and believe they are doing what they are supposed to do, and are doing so correctly.
 

Outlaws

Outlawarrior
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
76
Location
Aberdeen SD
Bike
'91 ST1100
STOC #
6726
Just one won't do for the wide range needed.

A little patience and persistence on ebay and I was able to assemble this set of high quality Snap On Torque Wrenches that covers anything I will ever encounter...

 

970mike

Mike Brown
Site Supporter
Joined
May 6, 2008
Messages
6,166
Age
66
Location
Lompoc, California
Bike
07 & 12 ST1300A
SPOT
LINK
STOC #
8057
Just one won't do for the wide range needed.

A little patience and persistence on ebay and I was able to assemble this set of high quality Snap On Torque Wrenches that covers anything I will ever encounter...

Now that is a great set of SnapOn wrenches there. :bow1: I have the 1/2 drive like yours but a Sears 3/8 wrench.
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,045
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I've got Snap-On clickers for the smaller torque ranges, up to about 75 ft-lb, and a dial type for higher torques. In theory they all need to be recalibrated periodically, but I've never done that with any of mine. The dial type from a good mfr like Snap-On are technically more accurate, but I think they're also more prone to going out of calibration if you drop them. I like having the progressive dial on my higher torque model, so I can see the torque increase as I go. And it has a max torque resettable pointer, so if you're not looking right at it you can still see what you did. And finally it also has a dual scale rotatable dial, with ft-lb on one side and Nm on the other, which comes in handy.

I like the Snap-On wrenches, but they cost a fortune. I bought mine so long ago I've forgotten the exact price, but they were pretty pricey, and over the years its only gotten worse. You didn't say exactly what you plan on using them for, but for things that actually need a torque wrench they are a good investment. If you're just using them for caliper bolts and stuff like that, simply because Honda publishes a torque spec on just about everything, then cheap is probably OK.
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
167
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
Bike
'08 ST1300ABS
STOC #
8741
I own a Snap-On click type I bought new in ~1979. It has been re-verified within spec by a certified torque wrench testing service 4 times since. The click type wrenches look simple, but the spring tension, spring rate, preload, and surface finish of interacting surfaces are critical to their accuracy. I bought a small HF model last year, tested it against a known good beam-type, and it missed by over 30% at 4 diff. settings. Not to mention you could barely feel the "click" and definitely could not hear it, even at max torque setting. Went back to store for refund next morning.

The Snap-On (and other brands) dial type gages are generally capable of the highest absolute reading accuracy (they have a beam inside, connected to the dial pointer by a rack and pinion (My Snap-On dial type is built that way anyway).

I have two smaller click-type units (one is an Armstrong I think, don't recall the other brand). I have some overlap between the various sizes, and can couple any square drive sizes to each other to reference between them. These others generally show within 10% of reading compared to the "better ones" and given the variables others mention, the fact that I am not torquing "jesus nuts" on helicopter rotors, I can live with the 10% error. I do torque all functionally critical fasteners on the MCs to service manual specs.

Possibly useful info - YMMV.

Randy

p.s. I did have a "jesus nut" torque wrench for a while. It was a discard (wouldn't hold cal) that a friend who was an avionics guy found in a scrap pile I think. About 6 ft long, aluminum box beam arm, and I think the range was 1200 - 3000 ft-lbs. Long gone - no use and no place to store it.
 
OP
OP
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
1,857
Location
houston, tx
ou didn't say exactly what you plan on using them for, but for things that actually need a torque wrench they are a good investment.
I didn't want to reveal my experience or what's currently in my toolbox, since I wanted open-ended opinions\facts.

But I'll bite. I have two: Sears click-style 3/8" 5-80 lbs, about 10 years old, and a 2-3 month old "Pittsburgh Pro" 1/2" 20-150 lb (from Harbor Freight).
(I also have an 'old-style' 35+ year old Sears beam type, at mom's house)

But I'm curious, if we read the description here, it sounds reasonable this beam style is preferable:
http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/C.php
Or the dial-type: http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/dials.php

Is it worth the ~$175 US for this accuracy and dependability out of the box?
(BTW - I've very cautious when handling my torque wrenches)
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,045
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I own a Snap-On click type I bought new in ~1979. It has been re-verified within spec by a certified torque wrench testing service 4 times since.
Just curious, how much do they charge to verify calibration?

the fact that I am not torquing "jesus nuts" on helicopter rotors, I can live with the 10% error.
that's why I've never bothered having mine checked, nothing that critical that it would really matter. I've heard more than one mechanic/engineer suggest that on things like heads, cams, etc. its more important that the torque on each fastener be the same, as opposed to exactly at some prescribed value +/- 0%. Not saying it doesn't need to be accurate, but for the things we'd be torquing on our STs there's a bit of tolerance available.
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
167
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
Bike
'08 ST1300ABS
STOC #
8741
Just curious, how much do they charge to verify calibration?

that's why I've never bothered having mine checked, nothing that critical that it would really matter. I've heard more than one mechanic/engineer suggest that on things like heads, cams, etc. its more important that the torque on each fastener be the same, as opposed to exactly at some prescribed value +/- 0%. Not saying it doesn't need to be accurate, but for the things we'd be torquing on our STs there's a bit of tolerance available.
I haven't had any verified in a long time (not a professional mechanic anymore). I think the last cal was in late 80s/early 90s. I seem to recall it was about $60. I have a set-up I built that I can accurately check from 2 to 150 ft-lb with dead weights, so no need to send out anymore.

Agree that there is adequate "safe torque range" so 2% tolerance on accuracy is not really required.
 
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
4,950
Age
62
Location
New Jersey
Bike
st1300 '04
STOC #
7163
Just curious, how much do they charge to verify calibration?
Here's one reference price
Angle Repair
Clicker type 1/2" or smaller $25 3/4" $60
+ $25 for a certification if requested. As found and as left values at 5 points 20-100% range cw and ccw
They don't repair import branded wrenches. (costs more than the wrench)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,045
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
So with a calibration check charge, and possible "fix", you could just about purchase a new one (?)
that's why I asked, I seemed to remember hearing numbers like that 20 years ago and came to the same conclusion, but the $25 rate seems reasonable.
 
Top Bottom