Have nothing further to add, anything on your end ?
Likely in need of 28amp Alt - any available?
- Thread starter Oldschool1
- Start date
Update: Last week I cleaned the VRR male connectors with 600grit paper (theory is oxide exists that is causing high resistance) and the contacing "bars" of the female terminal.
To date i've taken it on about 6 30 minute rides and constantly have 14.3 Volts present at the battery terminals.
I'm not positive this is the "sure fire fix" but maybe. After 2 months goes by and no issues I may pronounce it a victory.
If so I'd say this will be a large learning on deceptive "corrosion" that you would think not an issue intuitively by looking.
Now I need to go and check my valve adjustment. Perhaps a new chapter is coming.
I do want to say with a sincerity "Thanks to all that contributed to solving this issue" - I would cerntainly not have been tugging on terminals to find / get this far. Huge thanks!
Paul
To date i've taken it on about 6 30 minute rides and constantly have 14.3 Volts present at the battery terminals.
I'm not positive this is the "sure fire fix" but maybe. After 2 months goes by and no issues I may pronounce it a victory.
If so I'd say this will be a large learning on deceptive "corrosion" that you would think not an issue intuitively by looking.
Now I need to go and check my valve adjustment. Perhaps a new chapter is coming.
I do want to say with a sincerity "Thanks to all that contributed to solving this issue" - I would cerntainly not have been tugging on terminals to find / get this far. Huge thanks!
Paul
Sounds good so far. Nothing in life has a guarantee. The tugging on the terminals causes the abrasive action to rub the contact surface area for better (or poorer) conductivity. If things change when you do this, the area requires attention (correction). Hope to hear a good two month report and glad you just didn't throw parts and money at the problem. What you did with 600 grit paper I'd have probably scraped with a pocket knife blade...good stuff it helps, bad stuff it shows you to replace. JMHO
GO RIDE
GO RIDE
Nothing wrong with the 28A system as a whole. The problem as you've found is neglect(out of sight,out of mind)
. One other thing you might do is clean the mounting plate AND backside of VR. That mounting plate is thick for a reason. It is a heat sink to help draw heat away from regulator. A little dob of dielectic grease after cleaning connections WILL save from future issues..
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
+1 on both :wink:Nothing wrong with the 28A system as a whole. The problem as you've found is neglect(out of sight,out of mind)
An annual squirt of protective substance (like ACF-50) on connectors, fuse-box, etc... helps avoiding such woes...
I actually apply thermal grease (the white stuff as used on CPU-coolers/heat-pipes) on the backside before bolting the VRR back onto the footrest plate.
Interesting idea.......anything to help transfer the heat, and reduce that as a 'problem area'. Not a good ride day if the all important 'smoke' escapes
.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
As long as not seriously overloaded, the 26A system is pretty reliable... thousands of ST's are running out there...Not a good ride day if the all important 'smoke' escapes
Problems occur due corrosion on the crimp-connectors, increasing contact resistance thus generating heat increasing the resistance even further, which causes voltage drops, thus raise of current flowing...
Or serious overload (heated panties and such :wink: ), the increased current causing heat on named contacts, starting the same deadly circle...
The 26A system has like 10A surplus avail for accessories, enough to run a set of heated handles plus a standard car-stereo maybe...
.......which brings up a quick non-related question......likely would not be an issue using a Coleman mattress pump to air up a mattress since I already have installed an accssesory socket for occassional charging use of cell phone and GPS? It's seperately 10amp fused through the heated grips feed.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Depending how big that mattress is, thus how long that pump has to be operated to fill that "air-dome" and how much amps that "sucker" draws ;-)
The OEM Yuasa battery is rated with 12Ah when new... lets guestimate a conservative average of an aged battery at 10Ah... that's 1A for 10 hours, 5A for 2 hours, 10A for 1 hour, etc...
Unless you'll have the engine running while supplying that Coleman thingie... leaves the issue of neighbours (nagbours?) complaining ;-)
Thanks, if in doubt, running bike would'nt be an issue as it quieter than even the two Yammy 'suitcase' generators I have. That particular 12v pump produces a higher volume of air than the plug-in the wall ones. Takes bout'15sec. to blow up a full size mattress, so it would be really quick inflating a Kelty back-packers mattress. See that it uses 5-11amps, with a suggested 10amp fused power supply. Should work if necessary
.Unfortunately still having an issue as this VRR / 6P connection. But the issue is definitely here - that is good. After the previous scrubbing of all spades / connectons and additional crimp on the connector i thought that would have taken care of it. But after seating the 6P i'll get voltage/ then come back 3wks later start it and no voltage.
A firm 10lb push with the thumb on the 6P and instant voltage again. If i pull out on the 6P i have to work really hard to get voltage. If i just twist wiggle it around i don't get voltage.
So where the is the open at? Is it possible the open is internal to the VRR or rather how likely is this? I need a "surefire" fix here?
What would you do?
Thx,
Paul
A firm 10lb push with the thumb on the 6P and instant voltage again. If i pull out on the 6P i have to work really hard to get voltage. If i just twist wiggle it around i don't get voltage.
So where the is the open at? Is it possible the open is internal to the VRR or rather how likely is this? I need a "surefire" fix here?
What would you do?
Thx,
Paul
Well - 'm pronouncing my VRR "DEAD" and pleased to say it is the smoking gun. Well a connector failure would have been better.
Actually it is intermittent but mostly in the failed condition. pushing on the lower connection shroud with about 15-20lbf turns the voltage back on. And is repeatable each time. It is not the connectors themselves. I can pull push on each individual connector 1 at a time (removed from connector body) and not change either way.
Now to find one with a decent pedigree?
Heres the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTbAU5WEBoc
Actually it is intermittent but mostly in the failed condition. pushing on the lower connection shroud with about 15-20lbf turns the voltage back on. And is repeatable each time. It is not the connectors themselves. I can pull push on each individual connector 1 at a time (removed from connector body) and not change either way.
Now to find one with a decent pedigree?
Heres the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nTbAU5WEBoc
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Looking for a 28A unit to replace one with an open winding. Commuter bike with 130k on clock. Don't really need a 40A piece.
Starting a new thread might get you more responses on this and if you should suffer my previous experience with sheared bolts during that stator housing removal, come back here before you take further steps.