Yet another cruise control install report:
Since I'm hoping to pilot the ST from Vancouver,WA to Minnesota this summer I started researching cruise install info. I was impressed that Murph's recommended the Rostra over the Audiovox. Then, finding drseth's thread https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?125590-Rostra-Cruise-Control-for-ST1100/page3 where he didn't remove the carbs, I was inspired to give that a try.
I used ebay to find a used GL1500 switch and got that mounted and wired in first. I had to cut off 1/8 inch of my throttle grip to accomodate the wider switch assembly. I used these guys: http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/electrical/connectors.html to order some new connector pins so I could shorten the gl1500 cable and have a second hitachi plug to wire in the Rostra and CC switch with a nice disconnect. I soldered and crimped the new ones on and clicked them into the connector bodies. While I was at it I pulled the front brake wires from the old switch loom and inserted them into the new loom using them as my length metric. A small sharp tool is required to "un-click" and remove the old pins from a connector.
Next is finding a place for the Rostra and CC cable. Drseth is right ! It will just fit between the upper front fairing plastic and the framework that supports the mirror and fairing. The dip switch cover ends up on the inside facing the right fork tube. The cable goes forward under the headlight and gently curves back around the left side of the aircleaner shroud. A perfect length curve to drop the end parallel to the throttle cables. The Rostra unit fits so snug that you could probably test drive it without zip tying it in place. Another advantage is the ability to pull it down and forward and rotate to gain visible access to the dip switches when the handlebars are hard left.
The attachment to the bellcrank is the tricky part and not for the faint of heart. I used drseth's method here and dremeled enough off the original throttle cable end drum so the Rostra loop would fit snug but not bind. Don't be shy about pulling the fuel tank before proceeding; it is easy enough and makes all go much easier. I really wondered if this "less than 41mm" pull was going to work at all but it seems the Rostra servo is sensitive enough to handle that. I wouldn't argue though if you insisted on doing it the "right" way and drill and tap a lever attachment. Sure is nice not having to pull the carbs.....
Next is how to support the CC cable. I used two approaches simultaneously. My goal was a path to the bellcrank parallel to the main throttle cable. Bolting two cable clamps together allowed me to attach the CC cable to the throttle cable but it also had some annoying flex to it. Fabricating some aluminum stock to match a cardboard template yielded a second cable clamp bracket attached by the screws that hold the main throttle cable support. The picture will make it clearer. The end result is a nice straight clean path for the CC cable. Slack was kept to a minimum; maybe an 1/8th inch in and out when at idle stop.
The magnet and pickup assy. was next. I wanted a secure attachment as that area around the rear disk is subject to a lot of vibration, heat and weather. I used an easily cut and bent piece of 2 inch by 3 inch sheet copper to form to the inside of the swing-arm. I glued mouse-pad neoprene to the inside which does three things: allows 3 zip ties to snug it up, keeps the vibration down, and allows a place to cut a recess for the coil attachment screw. I found a rubber compression nut at the ace hardware that fit perfectly inside the coil so I don't have a nut sticking out the business end. A picture is worth a thousand....
I used 4 magnets from K&J magnets; the size that fits in the disc bolts is 2/10 X 3/16 inch. I finished the install just as 6 days of rain was starting so my test and tune rides were limited. Overall, I think I found settings that delivered excellent performance. I will post more on the settings and the wiring if there is interest.
Since I'm hoping to pilot the ST from Vancouver,WA to Minnesota this summer I started researching cruise install info. I was impressed that Murph's recommended the Rostra over the Audiovox. Then, finding drseth's thread https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?125590-Rostra-Cruise-Control-for-ST1100/page3 where he didn't remove the carbs, I was inspired to give that a try.
I used ebay to find a used GL1500 switch and got that mounted and wired in first. I had to cut off 1/8 inch of my throttle grip to accomodate the wider switch assembly. I used these guys: http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/electrical/connectors.html to order some new connector pins so I could shorten the gl1500 cable and have a second hitachi plug to wire in the Rostra and CC switch with a nice disconnect. I soldered and crimped the new ones on and clicked them into the connector bodies. While I was at it I pulled the front brake wires from the old switch loom and inserted them into the new loom using them as my length metric. A small sharp tool is required to "un-click" and remove the old pins from a connector.
Next is finding a place for the Rostra and CC cable. Drseth is right ! It will just fit between the upper front fairing plastic and the framework that supports the mirror and fairing. The dip switch cover ends up on the inside facing the right fork tube. The cable goes forward under the headlight and gently curves back around the left side of the aircleaner shroud. A perfect length curve to drop the end parallel to the throttle cables. The Rostra unit fits so snug that you could probably test drive it without zip tying it in place. Another advantage is the ability to pull it down and forward and rotate to gain visible access to the dip switches when the handlebars are hard left.
The attachment to the bellcrank is the tricky part and not for the faint of heart. I used drseth's method here and dremeled enough off the original throttle cable end drum so the Rostra loop would fit snug but not bind. Don't be shy about pulling the fuel tank before proceeding; it is easy enough and makes all go much easier. I really wondered if this "less than 41mm" pull was going to work at all but it seems the Rostra servo is sensitive enough to handle that. I wouldn't argue though if you insisted on doing it the "right" way and drill and tap a lever attachment. Sure is nice not having to pull the carbs.....
Next is how to support the CC cable. I used two approaches simultaneously. My goal was a path to the bellcrank parallel to the main throttle cable. Bolting two cable clamps together allowed me to attach the CC cable to the throttle cable but it also had some annoying flex to it. Fabricating some aluminum stock to match a cardboard template yielded a second cable clamp bracket attached by the screws that hold the main throttle cable support. The picture will make it clearer. The end result is a nice straight clean path for the CC cable. Slack was kept to a minimum; maybe an 1/8th inch in and out when at idle stop.
The magnet and pickup assy. was next. I wanted a secure attachment as that area around the rear disk is subject to a lot of vibration, heat and weather. I used an easily cut and bent piece of 2 inch by 3 inch sheet copper to form to the inside of the swing-arm. I glued mouse-pad neoprene to the inside which does three things: allows 3 zip ties to snug it up, keeps the vibration down, and allows a place to cut a recess for the coil attachment screw. I found a rubber compression nut at the ace hardware that fit perfectly inside the coil so I don't have a nut sticking out the business end. A picture is worth a thousand....
I used 4 magnets from K&J magnets; the size that fits in the disc bolts is 2/10 X 3/16 inch. I finished the install just as 6 days of rain was starting so my test and tune rides were limited. Overall, I think I found settings that delivered excellent performance. I will post more on the settings and the wiring if there is interest.
