when your wifey rides how much spring adjustment ?

I'm glad to see you received answers before the beating started...

I suggest you will not need the adjustment after all the weight you lose eating through that straw...


Mark
P.S.
I think the 'buying rounds' is the right way to go; but, that'll be at every event you attend with your better (should that be 'bitter' now?) half!

OK, I went back and corrected my first post. I have the 21.4 kg/mm RaceTech spring on my rear shock and adjust the preload full in, minus half turn out. Even with this heavier spring you can not achieve the correct sag numbers when riding two up. The stock rear spring has a rate of 17 kg/mm, so there is NO way you can get there with that spring. When you use RaceTech's spring calculator to find the correct spring for your combined weight, it calls for a 24.5 kg/mm spring. Even my 21.4 kg/mm spring can't achieve the correct sag number, but I do most of my riding 1 up, so I went with what works best for that.

One argument that you can use to justify upgrading the suspension, is that with the original spring you are looking at about 60%-70% compression with the 2 of you on the bike. When you hit a frost heave or big bump, that shock will bottom out and send the impact straight back into the seat. My wife has a herniated disk, so this argument worked for me.

mlheck said:

When you hit a frost heave or big bump, that shock will bottom out and send the impact straight back into the seat. My wife has a herniated disk, so this argument worked for me.

Click to expand...

That's seriously painful... hope she recovers...

On my 1100 I'd the issue of frame, stand-gallery, etc... hitting the deck while riding over a bump in a fast, tight RH turn, causing the bike to "stand up" massively, running wide...
So if in just that moment, one kiddo in his boom-car would have come along, deciding to cut his LH turn there, we'd been in serious trouble... :?
The Wilbers upgrade was expensive, but totally worth it.

There is no way you will ever get me to answer this question...For fear my wife might join the forum and see the answer LOL

When comparing to others settings, don't forget to add in weight of riding gear. My typical cool/cold-wx (boots, pants, jacket, helmet, and gloves) tallies a bit over 20 pounds (9 kg). I used to weigh about 220-225, but am now at 185-190 (w/o gear). I haven't weighed it, but I bet wife's cool/cold gear totals over 15 lbs. My gear drops to about 14 for normal warm wx riding - summer boots, mesh pants, mesh jacket, lighter-weight gloves. It could be significant.

I think there is a post or link to a resource on here somewhere (I don't have time to hunt it right now) that gives a step-by-step guide on setting the preload and damping. You need 2 or 3 people to do it properly though.

After I refilled the preload adjuster (resistance at 3-4 clicks) I find that I like about 1 turn past the "standard" setting (I believe is seven turns total?) is good for daily solo riding (for my preference). I think I have added 5 turns for casual 2-up riding, and maybe 3 more for loaded-up trip riding. I haven't found a need to change the preload - it is set for "release from as much compression I can give the rear, and look for just a tiny ?-cycle oscillation at the top, then add ?-? turn.

For normal riding, I run 40 psi frt & rr in PR3s. I go to 42 psi frt&rr for 2-up, or doing something like precision riding stuff/low speed maneuvering practice/rodeos for a little lighter low speed steering. I also add 2 turns to the preload to stiffen the rear and give me a touch extra ground clearance for the tight turns.