Rear Caliper Slide Bolt

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The 14mm bolt which needs to removed in order to swing the rear caliper forward.

Haynes and the Honda service manual recommend replacement on removal. I'm not intending to but I would like to remove it to clean and lubricate.

How do you get it out without removing the exhaust (silencer) though? It won't retract far enough to clear the mounting it goes in to before hitting the can. :confused:

Mike
 

Firstpeke

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I always soaked my exhaust clamps in ACF50 and then loosened them and took the rear bolt out of the left exhaust mount.

I then rotated the exhaust down out of the way.... this is fine as long as the collector and exhaust aren't near teabag standard approaching perforation.....

When I did it on my first ST the exhaust fell off leaving the front two inches of pipe in the collector..... I removed these and had it repaired locally by a welder....

If you really don't want to take the exhaust partially off, then the bolt should remove far enough to get the caliper off or move it, the bolt can be cleaned etc in situ, it isn't threaded more than a half inch or so.... but the plain shaft that goes into the caliper can get a bit stuck.... some ACF50 or lusol will sort that..... followed by a degrease and copper grease.....

Just make sure that it goes in to the hole in the caliper bracket when re-assembling....

Hope this helps.
 

ST1100Y

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How do you get it out without removing the exhaust (silencer) though? It won't retract far enough to clear the mounting it goes in to before hitting the can.
Ah! You're referring to the "calliper stop bolt", located on the LHS swing-arm leg...

This is the item I "rotate" my LHS can for when removing the calliper plate and rear wheel; remove the bolt holding it to the footrest plate, loosen the two bolts of the exhaust clamp, first push the silencer a bit down to get the fixing eye out underneath the footrest plate, then rotate it down/outward to get the clearance for the stop bolt.
Do not pull the silencer out the stub of the connector...
And since you're in UK: I hope the exhaust system on your ST has not rotted beyond recognition there, as this would mean that parts could crumble to bits...
 
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The only reason the manuals recommend replacement is because a new one comes with Lok-Tite already applied. I have nearly 500,000 miles on 3 STs and have never replaced that bolt. And, I don't lok-tite it either. No problem.
 
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The only reason the manuals recommend replacement is because a new one comes with Lok-Tite already applied. I have nearly 500,000 miles on 3 STs and have never replaced that bolt. And, I don't lok-tite it either. No problem.
+1

screw it back in, tighten it, forget it.
 

Tom Mac 04a

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because a new one comes with Lok-Tite already applied.
Like all dealerships, time is money. New bolt is pre locktite applied.... prob also being in a critial location the lawyers are involved too. ( never seen one break like some of the other bolts )

It took me a good 15+ mins to clean off the red locktight on my bolt..... didn't replace but used blue locktight ( med ) and put back in
 
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The 14mm bolt which needs to removed in order to swing the rear caliper forward.
Haynes and the Honda service manual recommend replacement on removal. I'm not intending to but I would like to remove it to clean and lubricate.
How do you get it out without removing the exhaust (silencer) though? It won't retract far enough to clear the mounting it goes in to before hitting the can. :confused:
I've had mine off a couple of times - tire replacement and brake check; then a brake pad replacement.
I clean the threads, then use a bit of Permatex Blue.

PartZilla has that bolt for $9 (USD), Ron Ayers for $15, and at a dealer ~$30

Edit:
Oddly enough, I can remove that bolt without disturbing the exhaust. A "wiggle" extension seems to be the trick for me.
 
Last edited:

Mark

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Mike,

The advice above is all good and you can choose to remove the bolt or not depending on the state of your exhaust system.

I will suggest that you use a ratcheting boxend wrench (14mm) as you will not have room to use a socket if you leave the exhaust in place.
I let the wrench hang in place after the bolt is retracted while I change the tire and moly the splines.

Good luck with it!
 

ST1100Y

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The only reason the manuals recommend replacement is because a new one comes with Lok-Tite already applied. I have nearly 500,000 miles on 3 STs and have never replaced that bolt. And, I don't lok-tite it either. No problem.
+ 2...
I clean that thing and apply copper-slip on the exposed shaft (aids alignment of the carrier plate and prevents corrosion so no hard time upon next removal...)
But I'm "anal" with my torque wrench... 70Nm on that bugger... (and to access it with the torque wrench, swinging the muffler down/out is helpful...)

IIRC did a user report having lost that bolt no so long ago, carrier plate rotated forward, jammed and deformed on the swing-arm, quite a mess...
 
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