Throttle grip and starter switch slides around.

So today was the first HOT day since I've owned this bike. I had it sitting in the parking lot at work all day, and when I got on it to go home, I noticed a huge gap between the throttle grip and the metal/aluminum end cap. That's when I noticed that the throttle and the switchbox could easily be slid back and forth on the handlebars. Upon further inspection, I see that the brake fluid housing/with clamp is actually further IN than the one on the opposing side(left handlebar). The brake fluid housing is TiGhtly bolted. So it was put there on purpose, question is why? The previous owner put on stainless steel brake lines. So maybe it had to do with reach??
I don't see a way to tighten the switchbox alone. Seems like the only way to fix this is by loosening the brake fluid clamp and sliding it right/up against the switchbox. Is this correct, or is there something I am missing? Seems so simple, I can't understand why he would of done that in the first place. So maybe I'm missing something.

What about the two screws on the bottom-side of the switchbox ?
Is the bar-end screwed in properly?

The switch groups usually have a small protrusion that mates to a small indentation or even a hole, in the bars... you should remove the screws from the bottom of the switch group and carefully check that there is a protrusion, usually on the lower cover, that can locate on the bar.

If there isn't one then it may be hard to fix this..... you probably wouldn't get enough tension on the mounting screws to stop it moving...

Ok great. I didn't see those screws(dark garage). So I found the screws and they were super tight, so I thought this was an unlikely fix. But I took them out and slid the switch box over (right) as far as it would go, then I horsed the screws back in. I didn't see an indentation or protrusion. However, there is electrical tape wrapped around bars which looks like it's serving as "grip". I tightened the screws and for now the box does not want to slide sideways(though it does move up and down) I guess ultimately, I should take off throttle cable and re wrap new electrical tape under the switchbox. I'll see if this continues to be a nuisance. Thanks guys, for getting me in the right direction!

If the protrusion is absent and to save buying a new switch group, use a small piece of thin cycle inner tube or similar wrapped around the bar just once and fit the switch over that.

It does have to be very thin, possible not even have to go all the way around..... degrease the bar before fitting.

from the picture it appears that you have Helibars, or some kind of aftermarket adjustable handlebars. Not sure if those will have the alignment hole, and as a result the pin that fits into the alignment hole may have been broken or ground off. Shouldn't be a big deal though as long as you get the bar diameter increased enough to fit tightly, but not bind up the throttle cable mechanism inside.

dwalby said:

from the picture it appears that you have Helibars, or some kind of aftermarket adjustable handlebars. Not sure if those will have the alignment hole, and as a result the pin that fits into the alignment hole may have been broken or ground off. Shouldn't be a big deal though as long as you get the bar diameter increased enough to fit tightly, but not bind up the throttle cable mechanism inside.

Click to expand...

You're right. I just learned that these were after market bars/risers. I haven't had an issue since, but I'm glad I have some suggestions here, in case it continues to happen.

Keep in mind; it doesn't need to be super tight or immovable- just snug it up enough the screws hold/don't vibrate out. (If folks are hanging on to the bars that tight, they need to work on body position and lower back strength). "Loose arms on the bars".