Right (cartridge) tube question.

Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
2
Location
Suwanee, GA
I just joined the forum so I can ask this question. I'm a great believer in forums but I've owned the 2001 ST1100 for three years now and never had an issue before. I just put new seals and oil in the forks. Had a little trouble getting the bottom bolt out of the right side on disassembly, but I soaked it overnight and hit it with an air gun the next morning and it came right out. I don't know if that would have caused the problem, but when I put it back together, the bottom bolt won't tighten up. At a certain point it just spins inside the bottom of the damper rod. My manual doesn't show the piece that the bottom bolt screws into, only the oil lock piece that slides over the end of the damper. What is supposed to keep the threaded piece from turning, and if it has to be replaced, how does it come out? I haven't taken the cartridge apart yet.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2006
Messages
45
Location
Roswell,Ga
Bike
2006 Goldwing
STOC #
185
If you are in a hurry, try calling Traxxion Dynamics at (770) 592-3823. They specialize in motorcycle suspensions and can probably help you over the phone.
They are also local to us in Woodstock if you have to get that repaired!! Great people to work with also. I'm local to you in Roswell if you wanted someone
to watch you work:)
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
The lower bolt threads into the bottom of the fork damper. You can pull it and check the threads to rule out stripped threads. If they're OK, partially assemble the fork and try again. That should provide enough tension to hold the rod from turning. BTDT Only 168 inch pounds on that bolt. Calls for a new copper crush washer.

Edit: you might first try just putting a stick down the tube to put 'holding pressure' on the top of the damper.

John

via iPhone 4S
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
2
Location
Suwanee, GA
The threads appear to be fine. It isn't the rod itself that is turning, but rather the threaded piece inside the rod. It will snug up before it starts to turn, but not enough to keep it from leaking.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
Inspect the surface surrounding the bolt hole in the bottom of the fork slider for damage. Also the washer. It shouldn't leak if you can get an initial 'snug.' Especially with a new washer. I'd get it snug (assume you mean at less than the spec'd torque value), fully assemble the whole fork assembly, and then torque to spec.

John
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,046
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
you didn't mention if you had put the spring, etc. back into the tube and tightened the top cap to put some pressure on the internals, that may help. Normally you only get the problematic spinning during disassembly, on assembly it normally snugs right up, especially with an air gun. Keep trying, it should eventually tighten up.

+1 on John's suggestion to fully assemble and try one last tightening sequence.
 
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