Bunch of work to do, suggestions appreciated as well

Bike is at 60K miles now (I got it at 58k a month and a half ago) and as my riding partner (my mother) is at my sisters for a month I figured it was a good time to do service since I have other bikes to ride when I'm by myself.

Thankfully i have a nice work space



The bike is strapped down now as well. just took the picture first. I was going to do valve check, carb sync, coolant change, brake fluid change, new steering stem bearings, and new tires (Dunlop Roadsmart II's. After an hour at cycle gear with a buddy looking at the tires we could find in the right sizes those were the only ones we could find with an appropriate weight rating as well in a radial tire that he could get his hands on quickly. But I've always preferred Dunlops anyway) and an oil change. After finding a puddle when I went to put the bike on the lift I'm going to have to do Fork seals as well and may do springs while I'm in there anyway if the budget can afford it (Im having to send my leathers off for repair work after I put a set of knee pucks on too low at my last track day and pulled some stitching out of the knees. Was time for new zippers as well).

My only question. The bike doesn't like to idle until the needle has moved about a quarter of the way up the gauge (normal operating temps) otherwise I have to blip the throttle or have the choke pulled. The bike also will idle up if the temps come up any. The bike sat a bunch before I got it (last owner had it two years and only put 400 miles on it) and I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and pull the carbs while I'm in there and clean them as well, or if the carb sync sounds like its where my problem is at. I've never had a V4 engine before and the carbs are a little intimidating to me (as far as installation and removal, I know they are a PITA on my VTR1000. I'm fine once I'm in there) and if I don't need to pull them I would rather not

Have you/do use Seafoam?

insulinboy said:

I've never had a V4 engine before and the carbs are a little intimidating to me (as far as installation and removal, I know they are a PITA on my VTR1000. I'm fine once I'm in there) and if I don't need to pull them I would rather not

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Recently pulled my carbs for the first time. Easy. Once you visualize where the isolator clamp screws are located, and get a long screwdriver in there.

Seafoam first though..

I did the seafoam thing. Used a whole bottle over the course of two full tanks, notice no difference now two tanks after the seafoam

Yup, you know you're going to need to clean the jets by hand...

I didn't see clutch fluid in the list...

Jim Van said:

Friendly Suggestions :

Replace plugs if they haven't been done recently.

Replace hose from thermostat housing to overflow tank as well as all other coolant hoses.

Check the carb slide diaphragms for small pinholes.

Replace fuel filter.

Check fuel pump output - see Mike Martin Maintenance webpage for details.

Check fuel cut-off valve diaphragm for tears.

Check wheel bearings.

Check brake caliper pistons for sticking.

Have fun - Above is easy to do and doesn't really take that much time. You and I are lucky because we can do our own work. It's cheap & easy for us to keep our old Pan's running great almost forever.

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Plugs were replaced just before I got the bike, and when I got it the rear caliper had sticky pistons so Ive already addressed it, had no issues with the fronts in my 2000 miles of ownership so far, save for noise because I forgot to use some grease on the pins the calipers sit on. Didn't think about wheel bearings and fuel filter but I should have, thanks for the note. As cheap as wheel bearings are I may just go ahead and replace them for peace of mind. at the very least I will repack them with grease. And I planned on changing clutch fluid with the brake fluid.. it all comes from the same brake fluid can

And yes, with 5 bikes in the garage right now I would be in trouble if I couldn't do my own work. I dropped a grand in parts alone this past month to keep them all healthy I am letting the VTR1000 go and I've contemplated selling the CB400A as well. Only bikes I ever ride anymore are the ST1100 for street riding and the SV650 and the pit bike for track duty


Also one more question sorry. After about two hours of riding on interstate I notice my temp needle starts moving away from about 1/4 of the way up the temp gauge to scary close to the red mark in about another hour. Am I correct in assuming that is a sign that its time to change the coolant or should I be taking a look at/replacing my thermostat as well? I'm going to be making a parts order and I'd just like to get everything I need all at once so I don't have to wait on stuff later

In addition to the Seafom, you might try an ethanol enzyme treatment. I've use the StarTron treatment and it worked very well (auto parts stores, Walmart). You add 10-15ml per tank fill if I remember the dosing correctly. The ST I picked up late last year had been sitting in a Honda shop for over a year. It ran okay but after running several tanks through it with the enzyme treatment I had to keep dialing down the idle until she settled down. It seemed like it took several weeks of enzyme action working in the carbs and jets to clean everything out.

insulinboy said:

Also one more question sorry. After about two hours of riding on interstate I notice my temp needle starts moving away from about 1/4 of the way up the temp gauge to scary close to the red mark in about another hour. Am I correct in assuming that is a sign that its time to change the coolant or should I be taking a look at/replacing my thermostat as well? I'm going to be making a parts order and I'd just like to get everything I need all at once so I don't have to wait on stuff later

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Interesting !! How is the coolant level in the overflow tank ?? Could be your thermostat is flaky or maybe even a flaky temp. sensor. If you have a thermocouple probe & DVM, you could measure the temp. to see if the gage reading is accurate.

BTW, a Stant 13868 thermostat fits and works fine. It looks a bit different than the stock thermostat but I've had one in my bike for 2 years now without a problem. Also, a Stant 11233 or Gates 31336 radiator cap fits, too.

I can feel the difference in heat radiating off the engine as well riding down the road, I'm not sure if the gauge is "accurate" but I do physically know the bike is getting warmer. It was the noticeable difference in heat that made me look down at my temp gauge. I should note it was a 100* day and humid as hell when I noticed this riding from atlanta to nashville on 75 and 24 taking my mother to my sisters. On the ride home it had cooled off a bunch (to low 70's) and other than a fuel stop I made it the whole way home without having an issue with temps. for no more than the thermostat is I think I'm just going to order it and a new gasket as well so I can feel a little better about it. I know a new one can fail too, but it won't be in the back of my mind while I'm riding and thats worth $20 i think..

I'm so happy I bought the bike just in time to do all this service work to it :lol: at least I will know her intimately when I am done

Oh and as a side note I will be safety wiring the Oil drain plug, filler plug, oil filter, and coolant drain while I'm in there and swapping the anti-freeze out with water and water wetter.. She may be going to little Talledega Gran Prix Raceway with me July 26th

I just finished up most of the work you're proposing, on my own 98. My thermostat came out in pieces. O-rings were shot and hoses weak. Looking after every vacuum leak I could see or think of was well worth attending to. Changed out the gear old in the rear end yesterday. It was long over due apparently. Next round for me will be steering head, swing arm and rear shock. Now to ride! Best of luck with your bit of tlc there.

Thankfully previous owner did just have gear oil changed out at a shop 2 weeks before I picked up the bike (and had the receipts to show me) so I don't have to mess with that just yet. Of course in taking off the rear wheel I may have to mess with it anyway. It will be my first experiance working on the rear of a shaft drive bike. I'm used to working on chains and every dealer I spoke with told me I never wanted to go to shaft drive because there is so much more maintenence.. but I haven't noticed any "more" maintenance yet. I'd have already had to adjust and lube my chain 10 times and the shaft is so much smoother.. of course that last bit doesn't really sound right :lol:

After already ordering $700 worth of parts and tires to put on the ST1100, I just made another $425 order for parts.. my eye is twitching a little.. New fork springs (in the proper rating for my weight. 1.0kg from the stock .62kg spring) dust and oil seals, new rubber hoses from stem to stern (fuel, air, and water. I just ordered bulk hose to trim myself for fuel, air, and overflow lines, I use a bunch of it in other applications and have rolls of hose in my garage already but its starting to get old and dry rotted itself and needs replacing) and a few other little bits.. Of course I forgot to order new brake pads (pads that were on it are only a month old, but after being drenched in fork oil and soaking in it for a week I don't trust them anymore) but my local cycle shop keeps them in stock so no big deal there.. Now to finish getting her torn down so I can start putting new pieces on when my stuff gets here.. front wheel and fender are off so far.. next forks come off, then tripples, bodywork and airbox, remove carbs to start the needles and jets soaking.. blah. I hate big tasks like this, I'm all about instant gratification :lol:

Shafts are new to me too.
As I am sure you know by now, every aspect of procedure seems to be covered here. Moly (60%) paste and not grease trips some up when servicing the splines and there are three o-rings in there. I am sure you will be fine with all your previous experience. Aside from the plastic I've enjoyed my work time on the 1100.
Cheers

insulinboy said:

...never wanted to go to shaft drive because there is so much more maintenence...

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LOL! Quite the opposite... replacement of 150ccm Hypoid oil every 36Tkm/22,5Kmiles does not sound like "a lot of maintenance" to me... ;-)

Pulling the carbs would be a good idea, especially if you are going to replace any hoses...check/replace elbows and O rings under the carbs. May have to replace the thermostat with the temperature gauge acting up... but before you do, check the overflow tube going to the coolant reservoir. The hose is known to be bad at the connection point to the thermostat housing. The coolant flush is a good idea, don't forget to drain the block... there is a bolt with a 10 mm head just in the worst spot behind the exhaust down pipe on each side... it is a royal PIA to get to.
When putting the carbs back in, you may need to order new isolators if the current ones are hard.


Careful, or your ST will look like this in the process!

Oh I pretty much know that's what its going to look like before I'm done. I have a month to get all the work done to it so I'm taking my time and making sure I get everything while I'm in there so I don't have to do it again later. I did order new coolant hoses (big ones, and small ones for the res.) and I was going to flush the system with fresh water till it comes out clear and non slimy, then add the new coolant. I'm pretty thorough with it, especially with something i'm contemplating putting on the race track. Don't want to ruin anybody elses day if I have a bad one.

when you talk about the elbows below the carbs do you mean #4 in this post?
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1997/ST1100A+A/RIGHT+CYLINDER+HEAD/parts.html

for the price I kind of wish I had just ordered them to have them and replace them since they are cheap. Didn't even think to look them up

Those #4 are the carb boots. My old ones were brittle and leaking badly. I replaced the works.

The elbows I think you're referring to may be these #10

http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/water_pipe.htm

Mine were corroded, but were not beyond smoothing out with some JB Weld, but I replaced them and the o-rings. These elbows were what leaked and prompted me to get under there in the first place. The o-rings were completely shot.

insulinboy said:

Plugs were replaced just before I got the bike, and when I got it the rear caliper had sticky pistons so Ive already addressed it, had no issues with the fronts in my 2000 miles of ownership so far, save for noise because I forgot to use some grease on the pins the calipers sit on. Didn't think about wheel bearings and fuel filter but I should have, thanks for the note. As cheap as wheel bearings are I may just go ahead and replace them for peace of mind. at the very least I will repack them with grease. And I planned on changing clutch fluid with the brake fluid.. it all comes from the same brake fluid can

And yes, with 5 bikes in the garage right now I would be in trouble if I couldn't do my own work. I dropped a grand in parts alone this past month to keep them all healthy I am letting the VTR1000 go and I've contemplated selling the CB400A as well. Only bikes I ever ride anymore are the ST1100 for street riding and the SV650 and the pit bike for track duty


Also one more question sorry. After about two hours of riding on interstate I notice my temp needle starts moving away from about 1/4 of the way up the temp gauge to scary close to the red mark in about another hour. Am I correct in assuming that is a sign that its time to change the coolant order should I be taking a look at/replacing my thermostat as well? I'm going to be making a parts order and I'd just like to get everything I need all at once so I don't have to wait on stuff later

Click to expand...

Your temp issue is result of low coolant level, which can be tracked to a likely split in overflow hose.....split in hose it can't draw coolant back into system. Don't let overflow tank level fool ya'. Do NOT reuse carb boots, replace with new. Clamps have 'stops' to keep from being overnighted and won't properly re-seal at head. Replace the two coolant elbows and o-rings while carb bank is off.........or you'll be back in there again......shortly. Replace front wheel bearings(any bearing supplier has them). At 55-60k originals go 'south'......BTDT. Check OUTER rubber seal of rad. cap for cracks......then go by a new cap from NAPA for Honda car application. Several part numbers are listed on the site for coolant repairs. Sorry for running this all together using my phone, but 'puter is still at the 'outer doc.

Looking at that LONG laundry list of work you've taken on. I have to ask...are you sure a month is enough time?

And another $150 worth of parts ordered :lol: thanks everyone for letting me know where the headaches are going to be before I get in there though so I'm not waiting on parts