Fork Oil Filling

STDaveNW

Dave
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
741
Location
Battle Ground, Washington
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2004 ST1300
STOC #
7741
As I am changing the seals on the ST1300 I watched the video someone posted on Delboys garage. It was very helpful except for one part.
Does the cartridge come apart to remove the spring? Does the cap just screw off? I would like to get my oil filled correctly. I know I can measure 621 ml and pour it by the spring, but seems like it would be hard to verify with the spring in the way?
Dave
BTW my 1/2 inch 18 volt impact made it a snap to dissemble.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
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The spring can be removed without disturbing the cartridge. True, the oil level is 62 mm and the quantity is +/- 621 CC but if you do not pump the cartridge dry and let the fork drain upside for a few hours 621 cc poured in will overfill it above 62 mm. The oil level is set with the spring removed and the fork tube and cartridge collapsed in the slider.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
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Yes, if I understand you. Unscrew the fork cap out of the tube. As it comes off the tube the preload on the spring will push the cap up off the tube but the damping rod will still be screwed into the underside of the cap. Take a wrench (14 mm ??) and slip it between the spacer and the cap. Hold the lock nut from turning while you screw the cap off the damping rod. That is all that is required to remove the spacer, spring, and washer.
 
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
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21
Location
North Texas
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'08 ST1300
I too am tackling this job tomorrow.
Upon refilling with spring out and unit collapsed, is there any need to pump the shock after adding oil and
rechecking the level ? I understand that it is a good idea to pump and let sit upside down when draining
but do I need to pump after a fill before installing back on bike ?
 
OP
OP
STDaveNW

STDaveNW

Dave
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
741
Location
Battle Ground, Washington
Bike
2004 ST1300
STOC #
7741
If, you are taking it all apart and rebuilding no need to let it drain. it's already empty. Now after you remove the cap and tube from the cartrage and dump in the first 475ml of Honda 10 wt oil it will seem full already, pull up on the rod and it will settle into the bottom. mine took exactly 622ML of fluid. Thanks to all and the Delboy video for the help! it was very easy.
It made big difference on how the bike tracks.
Spring in, tube out.
 

dduelin

Tune my heart to sing Thy grace
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Joined
Feb 11, 2006
Messages
9,682
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Jacksonville
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GL1800 R1200RT NC700
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008131
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6651
I too am tackling this job tomorrow.
Upon refilling with spring out and unit collapsed, is there any need to pump the shock after adding oil and
rechecking the level ? I understand that it is a good idea to pump and let sit upside down when draining
but do I need to pump after a fill before installing back on bike ?
After you drain the ALL old fluid out of the damping cartridge it is empty of oil and full of air. I set the fork leg upright in my jig and the fork tube and damping rod are going to be fully collapsed down in the slider prior to filling. If you have a bit of stiff wire 5 or 6" long twist a piece of it around the damping rod under the locknut and push the rod all the way down, leaving the wire sticking out the tube. I pour in about 600ml of new fluid and this will nearly completely fill the tube up. If you didn't twist some wire around the rod take a pair of needle nose pliers and grab the nut on the rod (don't burr up the treads, grab the nut) and pull the rod all the way up. Magically the fluid level drops about 60 or 70mm as the damping cartridge fills with new fluid. Pump the rod up and down a few times to fully fill the cartridge and stabilize the fluid level. Add as necessary to the stock level of 62mm or what level you want. As STDaveNW said it should take about 621ml. I don't measure the last 21ml I use a syringe with a 62mm hose to set the level at 62mm.
 
Joined
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soCal
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'97 ST1100
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687
If you didn't twist some wire around the rod take a pair of needle nose pliers and grab the nut on the rod (don't burr up the treads, grab the nut) and pull the rod all the way up.
A strong magnetic pickup tool also works well for this application.
 
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