ST1300A won't start, won't turn over

I have an ST1300A2 that won't start. When you turn the key it just clicks (once) somewhere near the battery, pushing the start button has no effect (no clicking, no turnover, nothing). I checked the fuse on the main relay (next to the battery), but no problem there. Usually I expect to turn the key and get a click and a bit of a "whir", but no "whir" to be heard.

Dash lights come on ok. I've just changed oil, coolant and brake fluid.

I have seen this issue on ST1300s previously, if they have been standing for awhile (this one has), but it usually clears if you turn them on and off a few times - so I never found out previously what the actual problem was.

This is a UK bike with HISS.

Did you check the battery voltage? Sounds like a flat battery to me, the click you heard is the starter relay. It is nominally a 12v system but should be closer to 13 volts not charging, 14 to 14.5 with the bike running. Put your battery on charge for a while and see if this makes a difference.

Sounds like the battery to me too.

Gary

Twinpine said:

Sounds like the battery to me too.

Gary

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Pretty sure it isn't the battery, because I tried to jump it off a portable power pack that I know is good, same result.

If the click is the starter relay, what is the "whir" (that I usually hear)? And where is the starter relay - the one by the battery?

What is HISS? alarm system?

STDaveNW said:

What is HISS? alarm system?

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Honda Ignition Security System - an immobiliser. If you have a key that fits the lock, but doesn't have the right chip code (not linked to the bike), the bike will "light up" when switched on, turn over when the start button is pushed, but will not start.

Clive said:

I checked the fuse on the main relay (next to the battery), but no problem there.

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Check all of the fuses. There are two on the right side, the 30A one you checked and a big 65A one on top of the battery. The remainder are behind the left side cover. The two you care most about are C and J if you have a non-ABS bike or D and L if you have ABS.

The whir you're expecting to hear is the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel rails. That's under the control of the ECM. Does the FI indicator illuminate when you turn on the ignition? If so, check it for diagnostic codes and let us know what you find.

Also check that nothing has happened to the bank angle sensor, which will inhibit pretty much everything.

--Mark

You have got the kill switch set to "run".... haven't you?

Pretty sure the FI light isn't coming on, but will check it tomorrow. Where is the bank angle sensor on an ST1300 (I know where it is on an ST1100!)?

Conveniently under the dash where you can't really get to it.

STDaveNW said:

Conveniently under the dash where you can't really get to it.

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I kind of doubt it is that, because although I have most of the fairing off, I haven't touched the dash/screen/headlight surround (tilt switch is under dash on the ST1100 - on the right side mirror mounting bracket). The bike did start after the oil change, but not since I did the brakes and coolant, so it's a bit confusing.

Blrfl said:

Check all of the fuses.

--Mark

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Mark, I didn't recognize you! Guess you must have finished eating that pie...

Clive said:

Pretty sure the FI light isn't coming on, but will check it tomorrow. Where is the bank angle sensor on an ST1300 (I know where it is on an ST1100!)?

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On the back of the headlight housing

almost sounds like the kill switch is not letting power by, when u did the brakes did u undo any connections, that might not be making good connection?

I had similar symptoms on my Versys a few weeks ago. Battery was fine, starter relay clicked with a turn of the key, but nothing when I tried to turn it over.

A smarter man than I am once told me, "Start where the problem exhibits itself." That would be the starter switch. Turned out there was corrosion build up on the starter switch, probably a result of my willingness to ride in most weather. A spray of contact cleaner and a gloob of dielectric grease solved it.

Firstpeke said:

You have got the kill switch set to "run".... haven't you?

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Um, mea culpa ? must have knocked it into the off position when bleeding the brakes. Runs perfect again.

One more stupid question though. Front brake seems soft compared to my ST1100 - should you be able to pull the lever to the hand grip when the adjuster is in position 1?

mine comes close but not all the way, did u replace the fluid or just pads? u might just have a little air, or dirty fluid.

No the lever should not come back to the bar except when emergency braking and exerting hulk like tendencies......

I would clean out the master cylinder reservoir and flush and bleed the front brakes.

Les, master internet technician! :bow1:

Clive said:

One more stupid question though. Front brake seems soft compared to my ST1100 - should you be able to pull the lever to the hand grip when the adjuster is in position 1?

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Is the lever properly fastened to the bar at the other end? ;-)