Rear Brake Issues
I?ve felt that the rear brakes on my 1998 non-ABS ST1100 have been less than stellar for some time now. Prior to a summer trip to NH where I put on about 1300 miles over the course of 4 days I thought that I would change the rears pads. Well, I noticed that one of the cylinders was not as smooth as the other and it was very difficult to get it to more in and out. I also noticed that there was a little bit or corrosion on the cylinder wall, however, not what I would consider excessive, especially compared to what I?ve seen on cars. Anyway, I decided to attempt to clean what I could reach with a nylon abrasive pad. It got it cleaner, but not perfect. I was able to get the second cylinder to move by isolating the other one and eventually it got better. Not perfect; but better.
Anyway, as part of normal maintenance, I decided that it was time to change the brake fluids, front and rear. The fronts went off without a hitch, however, the rears are a bit of an issue. No matter what I do, I continue to get air in the line, and here?s the VERY weird part, I get air even when the bleeder valve is completely closed. I?m using a manual pump to get the air out. Yes, I?m pretty sure that it?s not the pump or the lines. They hold pressure when I put my finger on the end of the hose.
So, I completely removed the bleeder valve and noticed that it had some corrosion. I ensured that all of the holes were free of corrosion and used a brass brush on the ?vee? part of the bleeder screw. I put the bleeder back into the caliper and tried to bleed the brakes. To be honest it was about the same.
OK, after all of that, here?s my question. In addition to new seals and possibly new cylinders and a bleeder valve, is there a way to clean the seat within the caliper that the bleeder valve goes into (God, that?s incredibly poor grammar.) I?d appreciate any advice, short of ordering a new complete caliper.
Also, did anybody else notice that the Nissin bleeder valve is the same one that?s on a Honda CR-V?
I?ve felt that the rear brakes on my 1998 non-ABS ST1100 have been less than stellar for some time now. Prior to a summer trip to NH where I put on about 1300 miles over the course of 4 days I thought that I would change the rears pads. Well, I noticed that one of the cylinders was not as smooth as the other and it was very difficult to get it to more in and out. I also noticed that there was a little bit or corrosion on the cylinder wall, however, not what I would consider excessive, especially compared to what I?ve seen on cars. Anyway, I decided to attempt to clean what I could reach with a nylon abrasive pad. It got it cleaner, but not perfect. I was able to get the second cylinder to move by isolating the other one and eventually it got better. Not perfect; but better.
Anyway, as part of normal maintenance, I decided that it was time to change the brake fluids, front and rear. The fronts went off without a hitch, however, the rears are a bit of an issue. No matter what I do, I continue to get air in the line, and here?s the VERY weird part, I get air even when the bleeder valve is completely closed. I?m using a manual pump to get the air out. Yes, I?m pretty sure that it?s not the pump or the lines. They hold pressure when I put my finger on the end of the hose.
So, I completely removed the bleeder valve and noticed that it had some corrosion. I ensured that all of the holes were free of corrosion and used a brass brush on the ?vee? part of the bleeder screw. I put the bleeder back into the caliper and tried to bleed the brakes. To be honest it was about the same.
OK, after all of that, here?s my question. In addition to new seals and possibly new cylinders and a bleeder valve, is there a way to clean the seat within the caliper that the bleeder valve goes into (God, that?s incredibly poor grammar.) I?d appreciate any advice, short of ordering a new complete caliper.
Also, did anybody else notice that the Nissin bleeder valve is the same one that?s on a Honda CR-V?