Timing Belt and Water Pump Questions / Potential Starting Issue

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Sep 11, 2011
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Pearland, Tx.
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97 ST1100 04 ST1300
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Too much for one thread I'm sure, but ...

First off, and I've touched on this once before, I have a starting issue. Occassionally when I hit the starter button I get the same response as when pushed with the kill switch engaged (only the kill switch is not engaged) - lights dim and it doesn't turn over. Usually, a push or two later it will turn over and crank. Occasionally it cranks mid push (if held for a few seconds). Sometimes however, I feel I am one push away from being stick somewhere (and would love to avoid this). I'm thinking a starter relay or maybe a bad kill switch, but would LOVE to know where to look. And since I will be doing the following and have much of the plastic off ....

Next, I am FINALLY going to undertake the timing belt / water pump change. It will also be the first time I check the valves and my guess they will need some adjusting (I haven't checked them and who knows about the PO - bike has 93K and a knock from time to time at @2500 rpm - and they sound pretty tight). I have the ST1100 Valve Clearance Worksheet and have read a bit about the valve adjusting and TB/WP replacement, but I'm open to any tips or tricks to make either easier. Also, what other things should be checked when I have the cover off for the belt and pump?

I realize there's a load of questions here, but .... Afterall, I'm not in my prime riding season here (IT'S HOT) LOL!

Oh, and I plan to add a cruise control to it while I have it apart too :) (One I bought a while ago - clone of the Audiovox I think)
 
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My opinion, and that of many others here is while you're in there doing the timing belt, replace all the other parts as well. They probably don't really need it, but all of them are critical components that have the potential to cause a lot of damage if they eventually fail. Its enough work to go in there at all, so look at the fiche and replace everything under the front covers (pulleys, spring, water pump, etc.) while you're in there.
 
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My opinion, and that of many others here is while you're in there doing the timing belt, replace all the other parts as well. They probably don't really need it, but all of them are critical components that have the potential to cause a lot of damage if they eventually fail. Its enough work to go in there at all, so look at the fiche and replace everything under the front covers (pulleys, spring, water pump, etc.) while you're in there.
I agree with this, though I usually just do a check of the water pump. If there is any doubt...I'll change it.

For the starting issue, take apart the starter switch and clean it out well, then add a little fresh dielectric grease. Chances are a cleaning is all it needs.
 
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1st put a voltage meter at the battery / when cranking battery voltage should be above 10.5 or close to it. if its below that use a good jump pack and recheck. if it is still low it could be too much starter draw. If its normal with a jump pack make sure when running voltage is above 13, verify that it is charging. if you eliminated the battery, starter draw and charging system, then look to starter relay or switch.
 

ESB

STRIDER
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Replaced Timing Belt on mine at about 95K, and DID NOT do the Water Pump at that time - prob. should have, because it needed to go about 5 to 10K later. But, did both jobs in winters, so didn't miss much ridin time. Belt & Pump were easy, and I didn't have a lot of tools or a fully equipped shop! Just took out the Radiator for the Belt change, & for Pump also removed that lower fwd. frame section. Not bad. Took my time.
+1 on insp. and cleaning Ur Starter Switch, & prob. checking and replacing that Start Relay. Honda still has em; theyr're used in alota bikes.
 
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Starter relay is easy to check- look for power getting to it when the switch is pressed. I'm betting there is no power getting to the relay when the switch is pushed.
 
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Aladinbama
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Grand Junction, Colo.
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Too much for one thread I'm sure, but ...

First off, and I've touched on this once before, I have a starting issue. Occassionally when I hit the starter button I get the same response as when pushed with the kill switch engaged (only the kill switch is not engaged) - lights dim and it doesn't turn over. Usually, a push or two later it will turn over and crank. Occasionally it cranks mid push (if held for a few seconds). Sometimes however, I feel I am one push away from being stick somewhere (and would love to avoid this). I'm thinking a starter relay or maybe a bad kill switch, but would LOVE to know where to look. And since I will be doing the following and have much of the plastic off ....

Next, I am FINALLY going to undertake the timing belt / water pump change. It will also be the first time I check the valves and my guess they will need some adjusting (I haven't checked them and who knows about the PO - bike has 93K and a knock from time to time at @2500 rpm - and they sound pretty tight). I have the ST1100 Valve Clearance Worksheet and have read a bit about the valve adjusting and TB/WP replacement, but I'm open to any tips or tricks to make either easier. Also, what other things should be checked when I have the cover off for the belt and pump?

I realize there's a load of questions here, but .... Afterall, I'm not in my prime riding season here (IT'S HOT) LOL!

Oh, and I plan to add a cruise control to it while I have it apart too :) (One I bought a while ago - clone of the Audiovox I think)
Remove that bar assembly with the start button. Dis-assemble and soak pieces in EvaporRust for a several hrs. Remove, clean and re-assemble. That will eliminate that as source of issue..............before going any further;).
 
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When I did mine I ended up needing to replace one or two of those little rubber gaskets between the various cover pieces and the cam front covers. In my case I took it all apart before ordering parts, so I was able to include them in the order. I wouldn't necessarily recommend replacing all of them, because most of them should be reusable, and they're only dust covers so not that critical anyway.
 

JPrieST

Don't squat with your spurs on
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On the start issue... I agree with all who say check/clean the start button switch. This should be where you start. Mine acted up very similar to what you describe. If I pressed it real slowly, wiggled it up and down, etc, I could find the sweet spot where it would work. Mine had actually broken a small tab inside the housing so I had to replace the entire assembly (start button, kill switch...the whole housing) Of course I was 80 miles from home when it kicked the bucket!
 
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Starter relay is easy to check- look for power getting to it when the switch is pressed. I'm betting there is no power getting to the relay when the switch is pushed.
+1........these scoots are hitting the age where stop switches will be causing voltage drops along with corroded contacts in start switches.....having a thirty-three old Venturer1100.....us XS'ers have already been there, done that ,got the T-shirt...right Dean R.? Almost DeJavue when I read this stuff. No different with our aging STeeds;). I'd FIRST remove the right-side controls and drop that whole assembly in EvaporRust overnite, then wash and blow it out dry. You'll be amazed at how the brass contacts look after a good cleanin.
 
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