Need some help....

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Replaced my rectifier today and everything was good took about a 30-45 ride it was fine, this evening went on about a 1 hr ride when I got downtown Indy was stop and go traffic for about 4 blocks and bike died would not restart, went to dinner about an hour later came back and it started... got about 4-5 blocks and died again... had to tow home,wouldn't turn over when put on charger it showed about 11 volts on gauge when day started was fully charged. Any suggestions on what to check or look at???
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Did you perform the Alternator Test in the service manual before you replaced the VRR? Do it now to rule out one or more of the three stator windings having failed (shows continuity to ground).

John
 
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Alternator was my next thought....
Bettin' some heat from resistance resulting from a failing connection was involved at that VR plug-in.......or it would not have been changed in the first place. IMO, the regulator plugin was among the source of the original issue, not regulator. Not corrected, by checking voltages at different locations, could result in another failing regulator, or worse, alternator;).
 
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None of the stator windings might show continuity to ground and you would think they are OK, but, as what seems to have happened with mine, the windings must have fused together inside the coils, not grounding, but effectively reducing the induced current possible from the magnetic field, such that the output is not sufficient to get up to over 14V with all lights on. My stator coils AC test showed 25V and 23V on two windings and one at 18V.

Putting the voltmeter on the battery with the engine running at @ 3,000 RPM and headlight fuse pulled, gives me 14.4V, but as soon as the lights are on, it drops to 12.5V. So, you may need to do the complete series of tests to check that alternator.
 

kiltman

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It does look as though a little bit of melting on the back side...
This might be part of your intermittent starting, because if the red wire doesn't make good contact your bike won't start, you may still have power from the battery and everything will light up but when you press the starter nada You need to replace that. My dealer told me that connector is available, or you can replace it with individual spade connectors. Take a picture of the connector for reference where the wires go to in the connector.(it can be easy to mix them up and you can short out a diode in the clutch switch circuit which will illuminate the neutral light everytime you pull in the clutch. green wire red tracer).
You may have to peel back the tape that holds the four wires to the connector. It is possible the corrosion has wicked up the wire. If any of the wire is black you need to cut the wire back till it is nice and shiny. Then splice and solder a new piece of wire to extend it so that the connector will reach the relay. (I didn't heed the advice from other members here on the forum and I had to fix this twice} Before you reconnect the wires to the starter relay put a good amount of dielectric grease on the relay terminals. This will prevent water that collects in the base of the connector from corroding the wires. It is the thicker red wire that is the main culprit.
There's another connector that causes grief, a little harder to get at (Above the starter relay in the frame), but it has three yellow wires from the alternator. It has been advised to take the connector out and solder each wire to the corresponding wire.
Doing these fixes will make the charging system work better and easier and the wires won't heat up and melt due to poor connections.
If you aren't running too many accessories the 28 amp alternator is capable, however, if you plan to run driving lights, heated vest and grips etc. you may want to consider upgrading the 28 amp alternator and retrofitting a 40 amp unit.
If you're so inclined there's a red wire bypass to consider.
This may seem overwhelming and it was to me when I had to face the issue. In the end I found it easy to deal with the three yellow wires and the red connector. I'm holding off on the alternator fix and will do the red wire bypass later.
All instructions on how to do this will be in the 1100 Alternator forum.
cheers
Robert
 

kiltman

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This is the red plug with 3 yellow wires..10610765_10203122139069132_2022588269019698265_n.jpg
Yes you have a problem. I caught mine before it did that. I think it's repairable. cut the plug out and splice the wires and solder. You will have to cut back until you get clean wire and you may have to splice new wire solder and use heat shrink insulation. This point you may want to check the resistance on your alternator wires. Again there are threads on how to do this. At this point I will have to defer to others as this is beyond my skill set.
 

ST1100Y

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I'm speechless...
LOL! Can happen...

Limped back home on two windings with this bugger somewhen in '95

IMG_1403 6x4.jpg

Had to turn off headlights (running only POS), no stereo, no nothing to barely have enough juice for fuel pump, ICU and coils ;-) (idling at an intersection with turn-signals and brake lights on... nah!... :lol:)
It however did not deliver enough juice to also charge the battery, so push-start at every morning and fuel stop; but the trusty '92 did the job of hauling us home.


The original cause was me unintentionally soaking the connector with motorcycle cleaner... unseen, thus not rinsed out, not greased either...
 

John OoSTerhuis

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Martin, the OP has another recent, ongoing thread about a burnt white 6P VRR connector, and has replaced a probably fried VRR. But didn't look at the rest of the charging system...(!?!?). No service manual or search on Owners or Riders for info/help...? Not running a voltmeter full time..?

It wasn't like there weren't any prior indications... That the problem came out of the blue.

Just say'n...

John
 
Last edited:

ST1100Y

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Martin, the OP has another recent, ongoing thread about a burnt white 6P VRR connector, and has replaced a probably fried VRR. But didn't look at the rest of the charging system...(!?!?).
...
Just say'n...
As already replied in the other thread is the 3-pin connector meltdown most likely the original cause for all the issues... IIRC does it nearly always start there...
To check the whole rig from bow to stern is not everyone's thing...

As mine went the first time (the above 3-pin was already replacement/repair...), it took out the complete harness between starter relay and VRR connector...
New harness installed and replaced the alternator sided 3-pin... but the bugger cooked up again...
Seems the first damage/shorting did lead to a consequential aftermath on the alt windings/wirings...

So once there is one damage, especially as server as in the OP pics, the whole system can be at stake...
 
OP
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ryterafan
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ok replaced yellow wires and before replacing had this at idle unnamed (1).jpg Then fixed wires and this is reading I get at idle unnamed.jpg I drove for a bit and am getting around 13.1 at idle...is this ok or do I have another problem???
 
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haven't measured mine in a while, but 13.5 at idle seems about right, 13.1 might be a bit low. What do you get when you rev it, you should be able to get 14.0-14.2 or so at a few thousand RPM. I'm not sure if anything less than that indicates you have a problem that needs to be addressed, I'll defer that advice to people who have serviced the same alternator as you have.

When you replaced the yellow wires did you measure the resistance to ground for each of the 3 winding phases? Each of the 3 yellow wires is a separate phase in the alternator windings and you should have no continuity to ground at all from each of the 3 terminals.
 
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