clock trip meters resettin

ST Gui

240Robert
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Seems like when the is turned off it turns off the memory that keeps the time and trip going while the key is turned off. If I am barking up the wrong tree
I think you're on the right track. If it's done this since the previous owner had the bike the battery doesn't seem like the likely suspect.


Sounds like this is similar and the "alive" fuse is either gone or corroded.... or the secondary supply is not getting there....
That's where I'd put my money. If I had any. I'd like to think the previous owner checked for any fuse in the "memory" lead. All my car aftermarket radios had a separate fused lead for that purpose.

I think your suggestion about the secondary supply is the most likely culprit. Since it's been a problem for the previous owner maybe the previous previous owner cut that wire while farklizing the bike. Or maybe while defarklizing the bike more likely.

If somebody familiar with the wiring diagram for the ST could check for a fuse and wire color…
 

Blrfl

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(Wrote this earlier today and never posted it. Probably more verbose than it needs to be, but hey, it's me... :))

Rode it home. When I got home I killed the engine with the kill switch leaving the key turned on. The clock and trip stay running turned the rocker back on so I could start it. I hit the start switch it started and the clock and trip stayed running just fine. To my way of thinking I have eleminated the battery.
I won't say you've put it completely out of the running, but it may be time to rule out a couple of other things.

To follow up on what Firstpeke said: It isn't turning the ignition on that causes the clock to lose its mind, it's that at some point while it's off, there isn't enough voltage to maintain it. Turning the ignition on pulls a lot more current than just the clock and feeds the dash through a different circuit. That's the first good current the dash sees, and not having had a backup, it starts at zero. (Subtle but important difference.)

Circuits that draw very little current are very sensitive to the quality of the connections, and if you don't have one that's completely gone, it could be something dirty. I used to work for a company that made a device which drew a few microamps (1/1000th of a milliamp) when idle. We had a sudden bunch of units returned for service because they stopped working. We'd throw in fresh batteries and everything would be great. Long story short, it turned out that the cause was the batteries. The manufacturer had quit plating the terminals in gold (which resists oxidation) and switched to something else that didn't do as good a job. The difference in how much the terminals oxidized made enough resistance to prevent those tiny currents from flowing and resulted in the thing dying when idle.

If the clock loses the time every time you turn off the ignition switch -- whether the off-to-on time is ten minutes, an hour or a day and no matter when the last time the engine was run or for how long, you probably have a fault in the circuit that keeps it backed up. (My dash weathers disconnections of the the battery of a couple of minutes, so there may be some capacitance in there somewhere to cover it.) That's pretty easy to check. Pull the connector from the back of the dash and look for 12V on the red/green wire. That wire runs all the way back to the fuse block, where it's fuse H on a standard bike and J on an ABS model.

The battery still isn't off the list. You arrived with a surface charge on the battery put there by the charging system, probably more than enough to keep the clock going. Leaving the ignition in the on position applies power to the dash through a different circuit than the one that maintains the clock when it's off. The position of the kill switch doesn't matter, because that only shuts off the circuits that run the engine, not the dash. The dash is a high-resistance load and draws a very tiny amount of current to remember the time and mileage. Lead-acid batteries have very low internal resistance that rises as they discharge. If your battery's shot, the charge will bleed off overnight and may raise the resistance in the entire battery-dash circuit enough that enough current can't flow to maintain the memory.



--Mark
 
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(Wrote this earlier today and never posted it. Probably more verbose than it needs to be, but hey, it's me... :))



I won't say you've put it completely out of the running, but it may be time to rule out a couple of other things.

To follow up on what Firstpeke said: It isn't turning the ignition on that causes the clock to lose its mind, it's that at some point while it's off, there isn't enough voltage to maintain it. Turning the ignition on pulls a lot more current than just the clock and feeds the dash through a different circuit. That's the first good current the dash sees, and not having had a backup, it starts at zero. (Subtle but important difference.)

Circuits that draw very little current are very sensitive to the quality of the connections, and if you don't have one that's completely gone, it could be something dirty. I used to work for a company that made a device which drew a few microamps (1/1000th of a milliamp) when idle. We had a sudden bunch of units returned for service because they stopped working. We'd throw in fresh batteries and everything would be great. Long story short, it turned out that the cause was the batteries. The manufacturer had quit plating the terminals in gold (which resists oxidation) and switched to something else that didn't do as good a job. The difference in how much the terminals oxidized made enough resistance to prevent those tiny currents from flowing and resulted in the thing dying when idle.

If the clock loses the time every time you turn off the ignition switch -- whether the off-to-on time is ten minutes, an hour or a day and no matter when the last time the engine was run or for how long, you probably have a fault in the circuit that keeps it backed up. (My dash weathers disconnections of the the battery of a couple of minutes, so there may be some capacitance in there somewhere to cover it.) That's pretty easy to check. Pull the connector from the back of the dash and look for 12V on the red/green wire. That wire runs all the way back to the fuse block, where it's fuse H on a standard bike and J on an ABS model.

The battery still isn't off the list. You arrived with a surface charge on the battery put there by the charging system, probably more than enough to keep the clock going. Leaving the ignition in the on position applies power to the dash through a different circuit than the one that maintains the clock when it's off. The position of the kill switch doesn't matter, because that only shuts off the circuits that run the engine, not the dash. The dash is a high-resistance load and draws a very tiny amount of current to remember the time and mileage. Lead-acid batteries have very low internal resistance that rises as they discharge. If your battery's shot, the charge will bleed off overnight and may raise the resistance in the entire battery-dash circuit enough that enough current can't flow to maintain the memory.



--Mark

Thanks for your input Mark that is where I am leaning. The clock resets even if key is off for only a minute even if I don't try to start it. It really acts like the memory function isn't working. I haven't had the tuperware off yet to check wiring in the dash area. maybe I will get brave and dig into it tomorrow.
 
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I'll add another piece of information... The clock in your ST is not like the clock in a computer. It does not have a secondary power source that retains memory when the key is off. The timekeeping function does not have a switched source of power. The clock is always powered by the bikes battery, and by it alone. Turning the key on simply illuminates the LCD panel, it has nothing to do with powering the timekeeping function.

As many others have said, your battery is going bad. If you wish to prove this to yourself, connect a tender to the battery and do the usual things that make the clock reset. It won't, because the tender will hold up the voltage. Oh, and BTW, your battery voltage should not be in the 10's when cranking. My ST voltage does not drop below 11.6 volts when cranking the motor. Another sign the battery is weak.

Best of luck with it!

Garry
 

Blrfl

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Turning the key on simply illuminates the LCD panel, it has nothing to do with powering the timekeeping function.
I'm not sure you can draw that conclusion. If the clock and trip odometer aren't getting power when the ignition is off but keeps time/distance when it's on (which it sounds like it does), it has to be getting power from the switched line. My money is on the circuit is likely behind a pair of blocking diodes that prevent power from the unswitched line leaking onto the switched line and vice versa.

There should be sufficient surface charge on the battery after a ride to hold the clock for at least a few minutes. The battery may be weak, but since the clock is lost immediately after a ride and a quick off/on cycle, I'm still inclined to look for problems elsewhere.

That brings up another possibility: If the unswitched line has power on it at the dash connector, there could be a bad trace in the instrument panel's circuit board or a bad diode on it.

--Mark
 

ST Gui

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It does not have a secondary power source
I don't think anybody said there was an additional discrete source of power as in a separate battery. Everybody is referencing a second circuit to the bike's battery as a source when the key is off similar to my mention of a car radio that has two power leads: one for the radio's electronics which is powered by a turn of the key and one for the radio's memory which gets power whether the key is on or off.

If the bike was on it's original battery since the previous owner had it I might suspect it. But the OP has said and reiterated that the clock and trip meter reset the as soon as the key is off and yet the bike starts fine.

The battery could be bad but I'll bet a new one or the Battery Tender will show the clock still resetting. If this hadn't been a problem for the previous owner since he had the bike the battery would be my prime suspect.
 

Blrfl

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I was thinking that the un switched power ground wire in the ground cap might be corroded or making a poor contact.
Bad ground is possible but not very likely since the rest of the dash works and there isn't any other misbehavior. Usually when grounds go bad, you get voltage finding ground through other circuits, which is why the symptoms for that usually include things being on when they shouldn't be.

--Mark
 
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