ST11A u-joint suspected problem

Vice-Grip pliers? Maybe lightly tapping on the end with a hammer first... Slip the driveshaft joint back on the shaft to help to wiggle it a bit...?

First I've heard of anyone having trouble pulling the U-joint off the trannie output shaft though.

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

First I've heard of anyone having trouble pulling the U-joint off the trannie output shaft though.

Click to expand...

Weird indeed...
- remove rear wheel
- remove lower mounting bolt of rear shock
- remove final drive
- remove both swing-arm pivot bolts
- move swing-arm ~2" to the aft
- push rubber cuff aside/rearward, grab U-joint base and push it off the output shaft
- propshaft falls into the swing-arm tube, carry both onto bench and continue...
...simple as that...

John OoSTerhuis said:

Vice-Grip pliers? Maybe lightly tapping on the end with a hammer first... Slip the driveshaft joint back on the shaft to help to wiggle it a bit...?

First I've heard of anyone having trouble pulling the U-joint off the trannie output shaft though.

John

Click to expand...

A light tap did the job. I can now see that the swingarm has a protrusion on the right side that fits into the frame. Looks like the trick is the move the swingarm to the left and it should come out easy. But it's being a pain. Will try to find a spot to pry a little to help it along.

Update: a little leverage with a long wrench worked just fine.
The u-joint looks good. Feels good. At 130k prolly should just replace for piece of mind. Hopefully never have to get in there again.

Glad to hear you got the swingarm out.

How do the driveshaft joint and pinion cup splines look?

John

Well, without a ton of experience here, I'd say they look somewhat dry, though there is some grease in the groves of the driveshaft, aft end. The yoke assembly looks good except it has the appearance of having been too hot. It has these color bands all around it. The cup part of the yoke looks really dry. I worked the yoke on its axises(?) and can feel a slight resistance in both. But until I compare it to a new one, I might not know what the resistance should actually feel like. Do you think the colorization would be normal?


See where it looks like it got hot? It's on both axises.


Here's the other end.

John, the driveshaft joint. The connecting piece projecting out of the final dive in your picture above. Pull it out.

John

Gotcha'. I'll take a look to see what I need to do.

John. I almost always use the actual noun-nomenclature of parts directly from the Honda Service Manual. If it's different from the fiches I list that. In the hope that it avoids possible confusion.

John

Okay, not enough time tonight for the job, but I did find one of my new o-rings...

I can reuse that, right?

John, the book is pointing out special tools. Am I going to need these to get the final drive all apart?

There should be no need to take the final drive apart. As to the Driveshaft Joint, just grab the end of it and pull it out. Look at the schematic in the manual.

Okay. Guess it's sorta stuck. I'll grab the hammer.

Yeah, it was stuck, but able to pull it out by hand.

Rusty red inside. Cruddy thick grease.

Looks like some wear and the o-ring allowed moisture inside. Will get it cleaned up to see better.

STurgisSTeele said:

Do you think the colorization would be normal?

Click to expand...

Its from the hardening/MFG process, nothing to worry...

Rusty red inside. Cruddy thick grease.

Click to expand...

uh-oh... I see some aftermath of neglect there...

STurgisSTeele said:

Looks like some wear and the o-ring allowed moisture inside.

Click to expand...

IIRC is it a "V-ring" (91263-MT3-005), the actual sealing is supposed to be provided by lubricant which... has vanished...
And the gearing of the prop shaft joint seems to have some wear/pitting... might be good to replace it (40202-MT3-000)
Its counterpart, the pinion joint (final drive input) appears OK though... as far as the pics permit determination...

ST1100Y said:

Its from the hardening/MFG process, nothing to worry...


uh-oh... I see some aftermath of neglect there...


IIRC is it a "V-ring" (91263-MT3-005), the actual sealing is supposed to be provided by lubricant which... has vanished...
And the gearing of the prop shaft joint seems to have some wear/pitting... might be good to replace it (40202-MT3-000)
Its counterpart, the pinion joint (final drive input) appears OK though... as far as the pics permit determination...

Click to expand...

Thanks. I'll check into those parts. I was going to clean things up and see how they look. I'll post pics later.

Well, looks like there is wear on the driveshaft joint.

And the oil seal was not all the way up, as I thought it should be, but maybe not.

But is this normal??

Does it come that way? I wonder if it worked it's way down and that is why the oil seal was up?

I tried to get a good pic to show what I think is wear.

Can you see where the teeth go flat at the back?
But maybe it comes that way?
Update: found a pic on the internet and it looked like this one, so I'm thinking this is normal.

What do the pros recommend?

I'd probably replace the oil seal, end cap and o-ring on the driveshaft joint. And maybe the pinion joint nut too.

John

+1 on what John said... you're already there, so might as well.

Ish, that doesn't look good. I promise I don't ride through any rivers.
Sorry you are having issues John.

Here's a couple more pics of the dsj.


When cleaned up, wear is apparent. I'll just order the set and it will all be good.

Mark, don't sweat it!