No, but you have to remove the swing arm. A special tool for torquing the swing arm bearings is required also. If you get the Honda Service Manual, it will guide you through the whole operation.
Dreaded 28 amp alt oil leak
- Thread starter FWTBT
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OP
OP
Thanks for your reply and the information regarding your alternator. I haven't pursued the project any further and am using the bike as is. I am still undecided on which project to start first and whether or not to do the work myself. I recently moved but I still don't have a decent place to work on the bike. It'll be expensive to have all the work done by a shop but these are such great old bikes I believe it's worth it to spend the money. Even if I spend more on the bike than what the bike can be sold for it's still cheaper than a new or newer bike and I'll have a bike that will take me anywhere I want to go for many many years.
OP
OP
I do have the service manual. The last time I checked the voltages the output was fine. The wiring and connectors were in good shape last I checked also but that was about a year ago so I should have another look. Maybe I'll give them a spray with electronic cleaner and give them a little dielectric grease. I don't load the system too heavily. The only thing I run is a gps, aftermarket led brake light and my electric vest. The gps and brake light use very little power. If I remember correctly the vest is about 3.6 amps and I use it a quite a bit.
another problem is coming in. there's a water leakage and I think it is watercoolant from radiator. I haven't check any further. damn!
Is there a "rent a shop" place near you on the Island anywhere? I've heard of such a business on the Lower Mainland, but didn't pay attention, as I don't need it. They have heated space and tools for DIYers to do repairs to their own vehicles. You will save a ton of money if you can manage to do it yourself. Enough, I would say, to buy a second ST1100!
ST1100Y
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Hint:
when purchasing P/N 31130-MT3-003, cover alternator (loc 9), the O-ring (loc 17) is included (at least it was the last time I'd ordered a 26A stator from David Silver)
If your stator is OK and you'll only want to replace the O-ring, loc 17 is the thing you'll need.
And also check first if not the O-ring of the casing (loc 16) is the original culprit or simply leaking as well (you'd hate going through all the work, to then still have a leak at the other O-ring ;-))
I always apply a slight film silicone-grease on the O-rings (plus the sealing surface in the casing/engine housing) and ensure its not twisted by pushing/rotating it along the groove.
Inserting the components is tricky, take time, see that you have the bolt bores properly aligned and the unit fully parallel to the dedicated opening/flange before pushing it in/on.
Avoid jamming as the new O-ring might get cut/kinked on the metal edges.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Also not a "big" issue...
First locate where its dripping, front or aft section, left or right of the engine?
Could be a simple as the overflow hose cracked at the stub on the thermostat housing; such is fixed in about 1 minute... cut the cracked end off and put the hose back on.
Other areas are the internal cooling lines and/or their elbow connectors/O-rings at the cylinder heads (underneath the carbs)
Also the internal bypass line (thin hose behind the t/belt housing) is popular to age and getting brittle.
Cracked seal of radiator cap, loose hose-clamps and such are other items to check.
Wrong coolant (use only silicate free stuff!) could have lead to failure of the water-pump seal...
Such would be annoying as you'd need to remove the timing belt to replace that.
But first eliminate all other possible sources of trouble.
Again: the forum is full of reports/guides on how to locate and fix any coolant leaks.
thanks once again bro.. the explaination is very helpful. gonna have some works to do and will update you after. cheers
Martin,
Did you eliminate the 2P connector? I've already removed the 3P previously on mine, but was considering whether I needed to take out the 2P as well? Already ordered the O-ring as well, so guess that might be another part going into the spare bin.
Not a big expense wasted though.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
I'd to replace/fix the 3-pin on my previous '92... "cremated" due to too intensive washing... definitely not load or design related, more a UTS-error (AKA blonde moment) ;-)
On the '94 the wiring is still OEM (aside the added P-spec stuff); only needed to replace the stator over windings shorted to ground... totally different issue... loss of all electrics like 100 yards from the MOT station... unplugged the stator and continued on battery power... bike passed MOT with flying colours BTW
On both, the '92 and the '94 all connectors, starter relays, etc... got/getting serviced, but are untouched and holding up flawless...
That's exactly where I'm at now. Found getting the swing arm off, for the first time, to be quite easy. I don't imagine it will slip into place as easily as it fell out of there. Had to remove a few more parts than you see mentioned in either the online write ups, or in the Service Manual. Like the large aluminum footrest/silencer holder on the left side, so I could get at the third bolt that holds the brake line onto the swing arm.
I haven't seen mention of the need to drain the oil before removing the alternator cover, but thought I'd better check first. Is the normal oil level below the alternator?
Also, I know you like the silicone grease, (the Service Manual says to use oil) but what about using some silicone gasket sealer on the O-ring, like the Permatex Blue stuff that I use on the valve cover gaskets. It works quite well up there and I can't see why it wouldn't be better for sealing against an oil leak.
Thanks for your thoughts.
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Any type of silicone sealer on o-rings is a no-no. A thin film smear of dielectic grease or silicone lube work the best, just to allow o-ring to easily give and conform when compressed. Thin film of oil on o-ring works as well too
.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Huh?! Can't recall having to do this... rotated silencers aside (don't pull them out), removed wheel, shock, f/drive, separated brake line at master and dropped the swing-arm.
For removing the 3 bolts holding the stator in place a 1/4" ratchet kit with extensions, U-joint and bits comes handy... (also a 1/4" torque wrench with appropriate range for assembly)
Yes, as long as you don't jack up the front wheel; main-stand and wheel on the ground (or platform if you have such) is fully OK.
+1...
Won't bound on the flexing O-ring and the solvents might even cause corrosion on the long run...
guys, at last my st is back to my house after few days in garageshop replacing the seal on the alternator. and now no more leaking. but here is another problem.
the bike is heating so much not like before. the fan in working though. and to the worse, when the engine in really hot state the clutch isn't working. luckily it happened when the gear is at neutral. the clutch couldn't get in to 1st gear, so I had to stop at the side of the road and when for her to cool down.
after some time, the clutch worked normally until the engine hot it stopped working again. is that a normal problem?
the bike is heating so much not like before. the fan in working though. and to the worse, when the engine in really hot state the clutch isn't working. luckily it happened when the gear is at neutral. the clutch couldn't get in to 1st gear, so I had to stop at the side of the road and when for her to cool down.
after some time, the clutch worked normally until the engine hot it stopped working again. is that a normal problem?
Check coolant level if it?s overheating while your fan works.
Clutch not working when hot might mean there's too much water in the clutch fluid.
Replacing the fluid might help.
Clutch not working when hot might mean there's too much water in the clutch fluid.
Replacing the fluid might help.
tomorrow will replace the fluid, clean all the fluid and replace with new one. hope it cures the problem. thanks bro