2006 st1300 non abs, low miles, always garaged, last started about a month ago, never any grief from it in any way.
Planned to trip down to Arkanstoc friday so went to start it yesterday and nothing, this is new, and surprising,..escalated to frustrating.
The most obvious symptoms are.
The things I have done
So I have approached this from the fact I could not hear the fuel pump on initial ignition on condition (should I even be able to hear it on all ignition on initiations?) or smell any fuel and the code 9 trouble code and am open to any suggestions for another approach. I thought it would be a fuel related trouble but who knows. I know it is the nature of things that break one day they work the next they don't but a reason for it would be nice.
Going forward is their a way to test the fuel pump external to all the FI stuff that goes on before it, like unplug the black connector and apply battery voltage. Is there a reason to approach this from an electrical/spark related trouble?
So Open to all and any suggestions of where to go next.
If I make Arkanstoc it will probably be in a car
Planned to trip down to Arkanstoc friday so went to start it yesterday and nothing, this is new, and surprising,..escalated to frustrating.
The most obvious symptoms are.
- Wont start, starter engages and spins motor easily and normally
- Police switch installed is in the run position have it installed in such a way to operate aux lights and headlights (on/off, Hid's) no indication of corrosion here, normal operation
- NO FUEL PUMP NOISE
- Battery voltage at rest over 12.75 v pulls down to 11.4v on a 10 second crank. (headlight off)
- code 9 pulled from the test port
The things I have done
- Drained fuel both tanks added 2 gallons fresh 91 octane with 4 oz of seafoam, yes I measured it.
- chased code 9 trouble per the service manual IAT sensor.
- page 5-22 made all tests relating to this widget all per the manual, voltages in spec, continuity with each conductor, ground and the ECM pins are good. No shorts, opens, grounds or crosses. With what I know about conductors and an Ohmmeter nothing wrong with these 2 wires as they relate to each other and chassis ground.
- have 12v on both sides of all fuses in the fuse tray, inspected FI fuse. Satisfied all fuses are good.
- Removed and bench tested the fuel cutoff relay and the engine stop relay via a 12v battery and an ohmeter. windings and contacts normal operation and resistance, satisfied these two relays are good, and they operate with key on, you can hear and feel them in case something up stream would be preventing their operation(the manual shows two different locations for the fuel cutoff relay, by color codes I choose to call the inboard one the Fuel cutoff relay.)
- Removed the upper tank,(really fun to do) air cleaner housing, to inspect the throttle bodies for signs of mice, none clean as whistle as I would expect.
- Installed a new Battery (Shorai Lithium Iron)
- No corrosion found any where yet.
- searched and read about a jillion trouble related threads (so much for Honda reliability).
- Put it all back together, cleared the codes, No Joy, No new codes, But I may not have cranked it long enough or often enough to set any.
So I have approached this from the fact I could not hear the fuel pump on initial ignition on condition (should I even be able to hear it on all ignition on initiations?) or smell any fuel and the code 9 trouble code and am open to any suggestions for another approach. I thought it would be a fuel related trouble but who knows. I know it is the nature of things that break one day they work the next they don't but a reason for it would be nice.
Going forward is their a way to test the fuel pump external to all the FI stuff that goes on before it, like unplug the black connector and apply battery voltage. Is there a reason to approach this from an electrical/spark related trouble?
So Open to all and any suggestions of where to go next.
If I make Arkanstoc it will probably be in a car