Headlight and switch issue (I think)

This morning I cranked up the BeaST and the headlight would not come back on after starting. It has delayed in the past, but this morning it just didn't come back on. I shut if off and started it again - nothing. Shut if off again, flipped the kill switch on and off several times, started it back up and nothing. Again, they have delayed coming back on a couple of times that I've noticed, but never more than about a second or so (I know this because my driving lights were "solo" for a while - hooked up to a separate fuse box).
Anyway, I am assuming this will be a switch issue, but wanted to seek assistance for other possibilities. I'm going to take the starter switch and spray some contact cleaner in it, and maybe the same for the hi/lo switch, but am not sure that is the issue. I do also realize dialectic grease is my friend once those areas are clean, so ....
Am I on the right track and is there anything else I need to check? Thanks!

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

The symptoms you describe seem to match the fault on Mike Martins page. I have dropped the link below hope this helps.

http://koczarski.com/mmartin/Headlight.htm

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

If the switch pod is like the 1300 you're on the right track.
Just use some plastic safe contact cleaner in the starter button and exercise it.
If you can take it apart a fresh pencil eraser can be used to clean the contacts further.

The hi/low, turn signal contacts etc. might benifit from a spritz as well.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

Cleaner may help, as long as the switch isn't broken!

When we were on our "Family" ride two weeks ago Justin's headlights would not come on. Now, I told him to check the starter switch first, but of course in his mind, he couldn't understand why the starter switch would cause that. So after he tore into all kinds of different possibilities (plastic sitting every where) and couldn't find anything, I took the starter switch apart and we found that the nylon part that holds the little switch together broke. And there was no fixing that part. Justin used a wire tie to hold the top of the switch in place until we got home, where he was able to replace it with another right side handlebar switch that I had as an extra.

The way I found that it was the starter switch, with the switch opened up, I pushed on the top of it, downward, allowing the connections that it had lost due to the broken piece, make contact...we have lights!

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

You have a dirty connection in the switch or a bad switch. Let us know what you find.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

Success! (or seems to be)
I bought some contact cleaner on the way home today. I took the starter switch apart, sprayed it well, worked it, sprayed it some more and put it back together. It work wonderfully .... for a few pushes, and then it began sticking. It would start, but the switch would stick in - pulled it out and the headlights would come back on. I took the switch apart again and shot some dialectic grease in, worked it, put a touch more in, worked it and buckled it all back up. It is currently working slicker than pig snot (I would have said something else, but this is a family forum ). There's no indication there was ever a problem.
Thanks for the suggestions and ideas - I hope I have this one licked (for another 90K+ anyway).

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

I also have this issue on my 99

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

I may catch a little heat on this but I think you may want to reconsider the use of dialectic grease. It is an insulator. Do a search on Google "Is dialectic grease conductive?"

I have heard this before when I was having turn signal switch issues on a vintage bike. I told a friend that was helping me troubleshoot the issue that I used dialectic grease and he said that it is non conductive and I should clean the switch and use a non silicone grease. My issues disappeared and have been gone for some time now.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

I would try WD-40. Using the red straw, soak both housings while flipping the switches.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

+1 on WD-40. Kerosene based, so it cleans well and dries without residue.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

I had the same issue on my 03 ST1300 I just sprayed contact cleaner into my switch in place the shot a little silicone lube into it no problems since.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

WD-40. Quick, easy, and cheap. If it doesn't work, move on to the next fix attempt.

Re: Heeadlight and switch issue (I think)

Grabcon said:

I may catch a little heat on this but I think you may want to reconsider the use of dialectic grease. It is an insulator. Do a search on Google "Is dialectic grease conductive?"

I have heard this before when I was having turn signal switch issues on a vintage bike. I told a friend that was helping me troubleshoot the issue that I used dialectic grease and he said that it is non conductive and I should clean the switch and use a non silicone grease. My issues disappeared and have been gone for some time now.

Click to expand...

Dielectric is an insulator. One is silicone aka bulb grease, dielectric grease, spark plug boot lube, brake grease, o-ring grease for scuba diving (really refined grade), underwater cameras and probably a dozen different names.
Another common dielectric substance is mineral oil (think wd-40) castor oil etc. common stuff err not the wd-40 used inside high voltage transformers. Mix in some soap and you have plain ol grease also a dielectric.
Particularly for connectors dielectric silicone grease will keep moisture (corrosion) off the metal but displace and provide metal to metal contact when plugged together. Where silicone grease is, gunk and corrosion isn't.
If your contacts are clean and in good condition dielectric grease should work fine.

Note there are lubricating contact cleaners and purpose made contact lubricants don't know how long they'd last in an open switch housing.

I *think some of the components are ABS and mineral filled ABS, kerosene if that's what is in wd, wouldn't be the best in there.
If the button is physically sticking it could be either gunk still in there or the contact cleaner that wasn't compatible with the plastic.


Full disclosure;
I'm in the wd-40 is a great dirt attractor mediocre penetrating oil lousy lubricant camp LOL.

My ST1100 had that issue and the problem was the high low beam switch. Contact cleaner resolved the issue temporarily in my case.

Gerhard

Never use a pink eraser to clean electrical parts. It contains red phosphorus whitch will promote corrosion. Use only the white variety of eraser.

Gonzo do have a reference for that? The red ones are a little more abrasive iron oxide to make em pink but phosphorus added to rubber would be a flame retardent you'd have to add on porpoise?

Dielectric grease as mentioned by st1300r does prevent corrosion. Keep in mind that a tight connection is preferred, the Dielectric will preform well, but if the connection is not tight such as light pressure from a switch rather than a connector, the Dielectric will act as an insulator. The metal to metal must have good contact and pressure or the Dielectric grease will do its job and provide insulated qualities.

st1300r said:

I *think some of the components are ABS and mineral filled ABS, kerosene if that's what is in wd, wouldn't be the best in there.
If the button is physically sticking it could be either gunk still in there or the contact cleaner that wasn't compatible with the plastic.

Click to expand...

I as well won't advocate WD-40, risk of making the plastic brittle...

The full job of servicing those switch-pods would require disassembly, cleaning out all crud, lubing axles and moving parts with plastic safe marine-grease, nursing all metal parts & contacts with something like ACF-50... all a bit of tweezers and Q-tip work ;-)
After this, proper treatment those switches will serve perfectly again for at least another decade...

Full disclosure; I'm in the wd-40 is a great dirt attractor mediocre penetrating oil lousy lubricant camp LOL.

Click to expand...

Again I agree, WD-40 is only a short time, momentarily fix, but will cause even more problems in the future...
(same with the bad custom of spraying this crap into the barrels of locks... panniers, ignition, etc...)

Gonzo said:

Never use a pink eraser to clean electrical parts. It contains red phosphorus whitch will promote corrosion. Use only the white variety of eraser.

Click to expand...

Either this or get one of those glass-fibre pens dedicated to clean contacts... and use it carefully, their highly abrasive, so 1~2 light touches/twists are absolutely enough.
And remember that after this one must use something protective like ACF-50 on the now fully blanked surfaces, otherwise they will corrode up again rather fast.

Well, like I said in a previous post - what I did is working like a charm. No hesitation in the button and the lights come back on as soon as it is released