Stuck on centerstand

skipcurt

Skip
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Hi all, I just did a fluid change before my trip next week to WVSTOC and now I can't get it off the centerstand. Any ideas? I've rocked it forward about 2' and it won't disengage. It's an '04 1300. Didn't feel like anything wrong going up.
Help!

Skip
 
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Byron

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Have you tried spraying something like WD-40 on the pivot points of the center stand?
 

T_C

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Put a short jack (pressing on a board) under the oil pan and lift it just enough to see if the stand will pivot.

WARNING!!!!
The bike will now be supported by just the two points of jack and rear tire. It will become a sever tip-over hazard if you are not being careful and steadying it. Best to have a second person to hold her stable.
WARNING!!!!
 
OP
OP
skipcurt

skipcurt

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She's down now. I think it might have been because I was a bit sloppy with oil filter drain today and it got on the centerstand/newpaper. Trying to rock it forward was just making the bike and paper slide. My perception is the darn oil filter could be located in a better location. I use the foil under the filter method but it still seems to always want to pour out the front side of the foil no matter how good I make it.
Thanks for the quick input! Soon it's off to WVSToc.

Skip
 

SupraSabre

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I always change the oil filter with the bike on the side stand and not the center stand. It takes a little manuvering to get the filter out though.
 

Firstpeke

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Regarding WD40, I am sure you all know this but it is a Water Displacing fluid not a lubricant or anti corrosion agent..... better to use ACF50 or penetrating oil, we have a product here called Plus-Gas, nearest thing to it would be some diesel fuel with some light oil mixed in.....

Sorry but I do hear people repeatedly recommending WD40 like this and it just isn't up to the job.... yes it will work to an extent because it is a liquid... but that's where it stops...

Best use for it on a bike is spraying the ignition leads after a drenching, or getting tar spots off the plastic.....

Glad you got the bike off the stand.... they may not corrode in the USA but they certainly do here..... badly, if not looked after....

Bring back grease points.

You might find this interesting; http://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html
 

Kevin_56

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I always change the oil filter with the bike on the side stand and not the center stand.
I have always done it on the center stand and no oil on it or the floor. Cut a section out of the side of a gallon ice cream bucket. Abut 3 -4 inches wide. It is pre-curved and rigid. Loosen the filter, maneuver the plastic trough under the filter and above the case. Remove filter and the oil runs down the trough and into your oil pan. Provided you put it behind the center stand. Never a mess.
 
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Regarding WD40, I am sure you all know this but it is a Water Displacing fluid not a lubricant or anti corrosion agent..... better to use ACF50 or penetrating oil, we have a product here called Plus-Gas, nearest thing to it would be some diesel fuel with some light oil mixed in.....

Sorry but I do hear people repeatedly recommending WD40 like this and it just isn't up to the job.... yes it will work to an extent because it is a liquid... but that's where it stops...

Best use for it on a bike is spraying the ignition leads after a drenching, or getting tar spots off the plastic.....

Glad you got the bike off the stand.... they may not corrode in the USA but they certainly do here..... badly, if not looked after....

Bring back grease points.

You might find this interesting; http://f2mcltd.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/winter-salt-protection-acf50-fs365-or.html
We could probably do a whole thread on WD40 with opinions all over the map. I've experimented with WD40 and never found it effective at displacing moisture, but when the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a thick oil about the viscosity of a medium weight motor oil. It may not be the best lubricant and certainly not a very good penetrating lubricant, but it does work.
 

SupraSabre

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We could probably do a whole thread on WD40 with opinions all over the map. I've experimented with WD40 and never found it effective at displacing moisture, but when the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a thick oil about the viscosity of a medium weight motor oil. It may not be the best lubricant and certainly not a very good penetrating lubricant, but it does work.
My first experiences with WD40 were after I started driving, I came across a few cars (including the one I drove) with moisture in their distributor caps. A good shot of WD40 and you had a running car!
 

Firstpeke

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I wonder what the WD stands for.... and the 40 for that matter....

All I can say is, I worked on Naval Aircraft for 14 years and only after I left the service did I find a product that ACTUALLY works at preventing corrosion, neutralising salt contamination and lubricating what it was applied to... it wasn't WD40.... or any other product that is sold to do that on motorcycles, GT85, FS365 and on and on.... but ACF50 is the one that does....

If you are happy with WD40, then my advice is, as they say, worth exactly what you paid for it.
 

Byron

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Regarding WD40, I am sure you all know this but it is a Water Displacing fluid not a lubricant or anti corrosion agent.....
You might what to let the company know that because this is what they publish in their product MSDS: "Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion".
 

Firstpeke

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Sarcasm lost there then?

Let me just say that I don't waste money on products that don't really work...... regardless of what it says on the tin....

Oil thread anyone?

Tyres?

Horse, water, drink?
 
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Sarcasm lost there then?

Let me just say that I don't waste money on products that don't really work...... regardless of what it says on the tin....

Oil thread anyone?

Tyres?

Horse, water, drink?
I'm not a big fan of sarcasm, especially when it's used to challenge someone's (right or wrong) opinion, but thanks for the information on ACF50. IMHO, there are many products better than WD40 and it's easy to believe that ACF50 is one of them. Still, I do keep WD40 on hand since it's cheap, readily available and actually does lubricate
 

Kevin_56

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Not knowing I searched for what it is -

HOW IT WORKS: ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion lubricant compound, specifically designed for the Aerospace Industry. It is an ultra Thin Fluid Compound (TFFC) that actively treats metal using advanced polar bonding technology. ACF-50 actively penetrates and "creeps" into the tightest seams, lap joints, micro cracks, and around rivet heads, displacing moisture and other corrosive fluids (orange juice, coke, coffee, salt water) in these corrosive prone areas. ACF-50's thin film acts like an "OFF SWITCH" for corrosion remaining effective for up to 24 months.

Another list of uses.

ACF-50 kills any corrosion currently in progress with just one application.
ACF-50 is non-flammable, non-carcinogenic, and virtually non-toxic.
ACF-50 can be safely applied to electronics such as radios, timers, test equipment, antenna connections, computers, etc.
ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.
ACF-50 provides excellent low-shear lubrication to moving parts and cables.
 

dduelin

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I wonder what the WD stands for.... and the 40 for that matter....

All I can say is, I worked on Naval Aircraft for 14 years and only after I left the service did I find a product that ACTUALLY works at preventing corrosion, neutralising salt contamination and lubricating what it was applied to... it wasn't WD40.... or any other product ..........
I have it from reliable sources the only thing that prevents corrosion on naval aircraft is the hydraulic fluid constantly leaking out of them, particularly British ones.

There is a place on my garage shelf for WD40 along with Boeshield T-9, 3 in 1, PB Blaster, Free, Ps88, etc. but none of them would have helped the OP. Like Skip, a couple times I had my ST up on the stand on a very slick floor and all it did was scoot forward on the stand when I tried to rock it forward off the stand. Both times I had to get someone to help me - the last time was at Tony and Annette's tech day. The hanger floor was very slick.
 
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Kevin_56

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Like Skip, a couple times I had my ST up on the stand on a very slick floor and all it did was scoot forward on the stand when I tried to rock it forward off the stand. Both times I had to get someone to help me - the last time was at Tony and Annette's tech day. The hanger floor was very slick.
Yep, if that stand does not bite the floor surface it slides like on skates.
 
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