Plastic cover over handlebars?

Not sure why I haven't noticed before the photos I'm now seeing of certain ST1100's that have a grey plastic cover with logo covering the handlebars and hardware. Mine and many others I've seen are just bare bars, bolts, risers, and all. So is the cover only for certain years or is it something I can add. I always thought the bronze color of the bars was a little off and now wonder if mine is not stock.
???

Bars on all years were/are black.

Grey plastic piece/s covered the bars on all years.

If you want to replace them make sure you buy bars and plastic from the same year.

Most ST1100 have some type of changes to the stock bar to allow a more upright ride. The first thing to go is the old cover.
Some use risers, some change the bars out to aftermarket, but most are running with the grips higher than stock.
If you want the cover keep an eye on the adds as this parts shows up for sale every few months.

the plastic cover attaches to a couple of threaded holes drilled into the top triple clamp, so it can't be raised to accommodate bars with a higher rise than the stock ones.

My bars are raised up and back an inch, but I was able to keep the grey plastic by adding some tabs of metal to relocate it higher. It's a wee bit more reach down to the ignition switch but not a big problem.

There had been a design change from pre '95 and post '96 models at handlebar and covers.

As its a '01 model the following fiche is valid:
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/handle_bars_&_top_bridge.htm
(does not fit '90~'95 models!)

Many removed the plastics for:
- creak/squeaking when pushing the bike with the handlebar
- installing bar raisers or entirely different handlebar

Mcreviver said:

My bars are raised up and back an inch, but I was able to keep the grey plastic by adding some tabs of metal to relocate it higher. It's a wee bit more reach down to the ignition switch but not a big problem.

Click to expand...

I like this idea. So I imagine you fabricated the tabs? Any rattling or distractive shaking?

ST1100Y said:

There had been a design change from pre '95 and post '96 models at handlebar and covers.

As its a '01 model the following fiche is valid:
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/handle_bars_&_top_bridge.htm
(does not fit '90~'95 models!)

Many removed the plastics for:
- creak/squeaking when pushing the bike with the handlebar
- installing bar raisers or entirely different handlebar

Click to expand...

Great Info! So do you know if it's diagram # 17 cover # 53155?

FieSTa45 said:

Most ST1100 have some type of changes to the stock bar to allow a more upright ride. The first thing to go is the old cover.
Some use risers, some change the bars out to aftermarket, but most are running with the grips higher than stock.
If you want the cover keep an eye on the adds as this parts shows up for sale every few months.

Click to expand...

Are you referring to ads on this forum?
Thanks!

KCST said:

Great Info! So do you know if it's diagram # 17 cover # 53155?

Click to expand...

Nah, if all is missing you'll need more then that, but I just saw that the fiche misses loc #18... sorry bout that... will need to research elsewhere for the full parts lists and come back later...

on the Honda handlebar fiche page its items 16 & 17, plus #30 clips and #22 screws. #12 is the ignition switch bezel if you want that, but if your bars aren't stock then it probably won't fit snugly anyway.

I'm about to pull all of that off my ST1100 to install some Rox Risers to move my bars up and back a bit.

If you are interested in obtaining an OEM cover, you could put an ad in the "wanted" section. Ther are likely several available.

I had risers on my 2 previous ST1100s & I modified the cover so the key wasn't a problem to get to & I also didn't have to fab anything to secure the bottom of the cover....they stayed very secure for many miles & occasionally saw speeds into triple digits.

John

Noah said:

I'm about to pull all of that off my ST1100 to install some Rox Risers to move my bars up and back a bit.

Click to expand...

So let me know if you plan not to or are unable to re-install those and want to sell them.

Thanks everyone!

dwalby said:

on the Honda handlebar fiche page its items 16 & 17, plus #30 clips and #22 screws. #12 is the ignition switch bezel if you want that, but if your bars aren't stock then it probably won't fit snugly anyway.

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+ #13 & #34 ;-) (that metal tab clamps on the steel wire on the upper tee, holding the hoses and wirings in place)

I'm thinking of giving the risers a try,I think the easiest way out is just to remove the plastic cover,can always be refitted and put back to stock if selling then.what mm diameter are the st1100's bars?

The bars are 7/8", or, about 23mm.

KCST said:

I like this idea. So I imagine you fabricated the tabs? Any rattling or distractive shaking?

Click to expand...

Yes I made the tabs or scrounged them from items in my "don't throw that away you might need it someday" bin. There is no rattling around of the plastic and it looks basically stock.

broc11 said:

I'm thinking of giving the risers a try

Click to expand...

On the '94 I've installed the OEM P-spec raisers (and the wider P-spec handlebar).
The OEM plastics (pre '95 design) fit perfectly (as their only mounted at the plate welded to the tube; this will not apply on a post '96 design, where the plastics are mounted at the upper tee, so one will need to fabricate some brackets/extensions for that)

However, even the only slight raise (IIRC ~20mm) already gives me the sensation of being somewhat "detached" from the steering...
Handles absolutely fine on straight bits and wide turns, but feels kinda weird during tight cornering...
The '00 with its OEM setup feels more compact and precise in this...

Pretty easy to do even with 'slight' risers. You can also flip the wire holder on the front (probably don't have it) and bend a piece of metal with a hole through it to put the front screw through. You can make the rear 'extended' tabs out of flat stock (like angle braces from a hardware store).
I cut off a closet pole to 'line' the deeper key hole - some use 35mm film containers as the 'liner'.