Turn over and died

I'm new to the ST world. I picked up a 94 ST1100 last spring. I put 5,000 on it and was going to take it out for a short run. The starter started cranking over and then everything just went dead. I did notice that when I turned the ignition key on that the clock would go out after that.

I'm not an electrician by any sorts. I have power going to the ignition and I attempted to hotwire it, not sure if I did it right, but it still sits like a lost puppy. Well, actually, I'm the lost one here. I'm not sure how to check the bank angle sensors. I know they were on recall for the 93's from what I read here, but that does not apply to me. It probably isn't the start switch because all the dash lights would go on before starting anyway.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I would guess the battery is shot. They will show voltage but won't have the amps. Do you have another one to test with? Batteries are available about anywhere less than $100 (Walmart, auto parts store, Batteries Plus).

if you don't already have a basic voltmeter, go out and get one. Harbor freight usually has them for a few bucks, not sure who else to point you to if you don't have a HF near you. It sounds like your battery is dead, but its worth putting a meter on it to verify that. If you don't have enough oomph to keep the clock alive, then its likely your battery is toast. Measure the battery voltage with the ignition off, should be around 12.7v. With the ignition on it should still hold 12.0v or so with the headlight on. Anything significantly less than that and you need a new battery anyway, so start there. You can also hook up a car battery with jumper cables, but don't start the car, just use the battery with the car off. Then see if your starter cranks. If you can make a good connection with the jumper cables, you can probably start the bike. If so, then your problem is solved, buy a new battery. If not, then you can start tracing out the circuit from there, come back for more advice.

To access the battery:
- remove LHS pannier
- remove seat
- remove LH side panel

Dunno if an owner's manual came with the bike, but here is an online version giving the general overview:
http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/owners_manual.htm

I don't think that the bank angle sensor is an issue, dim instrument lights and the clock "going out" point to a voltage issue; battery dead, loose terminals, wiring...

Sounds like you need to load test the battery, check that the connections are clean and tight and maybe it is time for a new battery.

And check the red connector near the main fuse and starter solenoid ( next to the battery ) for corroded connections.

If you need a battery, I would recommend an AGM battery. The battery is a standard size, I believe a 16XL. I got mine at my local Ag store for about $85. Since you are from Dairy Land, I bet you have one near you too.

In addition to a Volt-Ohm meter you will need a schematic diagram. Good luck & have fun. Of course, electrical problems are always fun !! Keep use informed.

At the tupperware is off the bike and all parts accounted for. I have a basic volt/ohm meeter that I have been running through the bike with off of the wiring diagram. I've been attempting to locate and test from the trouble shooting parts from the shop manual. If it is as simple as the battery telling me to screw myself... I have the voltage, but I will check for push today. The connections look good from the ones I've been tracking down. I didn't get any dim lights at all after it went dead while starting. It just doesn't engage any electrical system upon turning the key. The clock was on only because it has power to it. I'm away for most of the day, but I'll get back to it Sunday for sure. The fuses are all in good shape and make connection. Thanks for the input.

When I get done with this, I get to tackle the "I smell gas after I turn the bike off" situation. The fuel valve passes the vacuum test and the vacuum hose connected to it looks brand new. My new project bike. Grrr.

If the plastics are off, remove the aircleaner casing and between the carbs and the steering head there is a rubber "blanket". If you lift it up there are some connectors underneath and one of mine was loose. It gave the same symptoms as you mention. With electrics, it's often a case of elimination - starting with the easiest!

The petrol smell is often just the tank venting pressure build up from the engine heated air inside the tank. Quite normal, but mine sounds like the Queen Elizabeth coming into port sometimes. A little silicon grease around the seals will probably quieten it for a while.

Double Six, AKA FlyingPanMan on YouTube

You have to be kidding me. Dead battery. Really! Two stupid points for me. Hear that? It's my cranium being projected into the nearest vertical surface. I have to say that on the positive side, I got to know my bike and parts location better. I will be riding before the snow flies. Thanks everyone for taking the time to read and respond to my so-called issue. St owners really are a great group to be associated with!

That's great!

I get to tackle the "I smell gas after I turn the bike off" situation. The fuel valve passes the vacuum test and the vacuum hose connected to it looks brand new. My new project bike.

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Bypass the vac. fuel valve. Hook the hose from the fuel valve to the filter and plug the vac. line. Run it that way for a while and smell if you still have the "gas smell". If yes, put thing back as they were or don't. Continue looking for the problem.

Don't feel bad Roll4.......couple yrs. back our Escape decided it wouldn't even hardly click let alone start. Hmmm.....did fine day before. Got out volt meter, checked it showed 12.5v at battery. Turn ign. key to just on position....4v. Hmmm....4shorted cells. Replaced the Interstate batt. with new.......all good again. Just key on for the elctronics was enough to condem that battery.

Glad you got your starting problem sorted out and the bike back on the road.

Ron said:

That's great!
Bypass the vac. fuel valve. Hook the hose from the fuel valve to the filter and plug the vac. line. Run it that way for a while and smell if you still have the "gas smell". If yes, put thing back as they were or don't. Continue looking for the problem.

Click to expand...

I'm finally getting back to the gas smell issue. It wasn't the shutoff valve. I replaced the fuel lines after removing the carbs. I hooked up a fuel line from the fuel valve to the carbs on the bench and turned over the bike. Once the fuel pump kicked in and filled the carbs, I noticed that the float bowls were leaking. I just need some O-rings, right? O-ring kits are $31 a piece. I've been working my way around the forums to find cheaper priced o-rings. I know the bike is 21 years young with barely any miles on it, but isn't that a bit steep?

Should I be contemplating a carb rebuild on a bike with 21K on it? It's not even broken in yet, but my wallet is. Any leads on a good supplier of parts that doesn't hold us hostage?

I've got a DRZ that I've been riding, but it is not the same on the road.

21year old bike with only 21,000 miles? It sure sat for a long time. Worst thing in the world for it. Were the carbs drained? If the bowl seals are leaking on the outside, I'm thinking the bowls are full of oxidation on the inside.

I see it this way. You're already removing the carbs to reseal the float bowls. Why not spend some extra time and thoroughly clean them out. YOUR RIGHT THERE... Take a real good look at those boots too.

Hate to see ya put 'em back on, THEN have problems.

Roll4Damage said:

Once the fuel pump kicked in and filled the carbs, I noticed that the float bowls were leaking.
I just need some O-rings, right? O-ring kits are $31 a piece. I've been working my way around the forums to find cheaper priced o-rings.
I know the bike is 21 years young with barely any miles on it, but isn't that a bit steep?

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Well, their not just only "O-rings", their specifically, unique shaped gaskets... and I find your $31,-/piece a real bargain...
http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-3816-13MT3L41-ST1100M-1991-E__2101-PAN+EUROPEAN+ST+1100.html
And considering that they'll easily last another 20 years, is that price no issue at all...

If someone obtains a +20 year old motorcycle, he must be aware that he will be confronted with some rebuild/overhaul costs...

Definitely replace the Carb boots (Insulators) they are old and stiff. They are also relatively cheap.
Dealing with a Vacuum leak afterward will not be good for your mental health.