Suspension overhaul time

Reginald

cyclepoke
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those are progressive springs (which are the problem) the following was copied from Sonic about the differences:
[SIZE=+1]Straight-Rate Springs vs. Progressive Rate Springs[/SIZE]Over the last 20 years, one of the biggest changes in the aftermarket motorcycle suspension world has been the virtually complete switch from progressive rate springs to straight rate ones. I think it?s safe to say that there?s not a single reputable suspension tuner who advocates progressive springs. The question is why? What?s the problem with a progressive rate? Why are straight rate springs better?

One of the problems is that bikes, street bikes anyway, just don?t have enough travel to take advantage of progressive rates. The soft initial portion gets blown right through, leaving a limited amount of travel for the stiffer portion to deal with. This results in less compliance, less traction and a harsher ride. Another issue is damping; Damping rates, particularly rebound damping, need to be matched to the spring rate. With a progressive (i.e. variable) rate, that?s impossible. Damping is always a compromise and a progressive rate just makes the balancing act that much more difficult. Adding to the problem is that modern forks actually have 2 spring mediums, the steel coil and the air trapped inside. The air is intrinsically a highly progressive spring. Adding a progressively wound steel spring to the mix is just making a bad situation worse.

At WeSTOC I discussed progressive VS straight rates with Mat Wiley (Race Tech and Rider Magazine Tech editor). He added to what you said above by saying when preload is added, it takes up the progressive part of the spring and in effect making it a straight rate spring.

I have the .95 Race Tech fork springs and a rebuilt shock by Race Tech. I use the 10 wt. fork oil. Mat check out my suspension and thought it well set up. I like it much better than before.

I rode it over the "Lost Coast Road" at WeSTOC and it performed well. That road is beat to hell and one STOC member got thrown from his bike on this route this year. So I believe the springs and shock would work for your roads up north. Oh, once rebuilt the shocks cost about half to rebuild them again if you get that many miles on them.
 
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Outbackwack

Outbackwack

Howard
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At WeSTOC I discussed progressive VS straight rates with Mat Wiley (Race Tech and Rider Magazine Tech editor). He added to what you said above by saying when preload is added, it takes up the progressive part of the spring and in effect making it a straight rate spring.

I have the .95 Race Tech fork springs and a rebuilt shock by Race Tech. I use the 10 wt. fork oil. Mat check out my suspension and thought it well set up. I like it much better than before.

I rode it over the "Lost Coast Road" at WeSTOC and it performed well. That road is beat to hell and one STOC member got thrown from his bike on this route this year. So I believe the springs and shock would work for your roads up north. Oh, once rebuilt the shocks cost about half to rebuild them again if you get that many miles on them.
Reg, how much do you weigh in at? Ride 2 up? Loaded for camping or anything like that?
 

Reginald

cyclepoke
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Reg, how much do you weigh in at? Ride 2 up? Loaded for camping or anything like that?
I weigh 210. The spring rates are set for an un loaded bike. My front spring is a .95 rate spring. Since I don't get aggressive (for me) when loaded, I thought I'd set up the bike for just me. Well, the setup greatly enhanced my loaded bike too.

I don't ride 2 up anymore, so I have no observations for that condition. The wife has a Spyder.
 

T_C

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I weigh 210. The spring rates are set for an un loaded bike. My front spring is a .95 rate spring.
Huh???

For the calculators that comes in way undersprung. That is just barley over what the factory is and don't we figure the factory bike was designed for 150 lb. rider?
I'm just a tad heavier then ya, 220, but I'm running the 1.2 spring. Mat thought mine was set-up good at WeStoc too... but he is a salesman so...
 

Reginald

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Huh???

For the calculators that comes in way undersprung. That is just barley over what the factory is and don't we figure the factory bike was designed for 150 lb. rider?
I'm just a tad heavier then ya, 220, but I'm running the 1.2 spring. Mat thought mine was set-up good at WeStoc too... but he is a salesman so...
Well,,, that was the Race Tech calculator that gave me those specs (actually between .95 and 1.0). I even discussed it over the phone with their tech guy. Am I remembering correctly that the ST1300 stock rate is .85. My set-up works, what more can I say? So, Mat's a salesman who appears to be concerned, I think I'll trust him.
 
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I have a Sonic .95's and Race Tech gold valves up front and had Race tech rebuild my "non rebuildable" stoc honda shock. Put in a new shock spring and gold valve. Totally transformed the handling of the bike. Feels #100 lighter in the corners. If it gets bumpy, the wheels just dance and the bike rails thru the turn.. No more front bobble or dive on braking. Expensive? yes and at the time a little below $1000. Worth it?? absolutootly. BTW I'm #185 and ride solo.
 
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Outbackwack

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Howard
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I was just prompted about doing the overhaul again and I'm wondering how much time I can expect to 1) remove/replace the rear shock and 2) do a Race-Tech or Sonic upgrade to the front forks? What's Race-Tech's estimated turnaround time for a rear shock rebuild? Thanks!
 
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I was just prompted about doing the overhaul again and I'm wondering how much time I can expect to 1) remove/replace the rear shock and 2) do a Race-Tech or Sonic upgrade to the front forks? What's Race-Tech's estimated turnaround time for a rear shock rebuild? Thanks!
Hard questions! The following are myou times I am a reasonably skilled with good tools.

Rear shock removal about a hour first time. I live close to race tech so no shipping time. They took 2 days to rebuild my shock. About an hour to put it back on.

The front forts are a little more involved depending on what you are going to do.

I spent a couple of days taking off my forks, disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. I think if I did it again one day could i do this.
If you are just going to change out the springs it would be quicker.
 
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Outbackwack

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Howard
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I will probably send the rear shock to Race Tech and upgrade the fork springs. I was even thinking about sending everything to them just to be done with it.
 

T_C

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Will the Race Tech mods enable me to ride two up even if our combined weight is close to 500lbs?
As long as you tell Race Tech that at the time of rebuild, and provided they have a proper weight spring.

So might want to email them before sending. Only they can truly answer this question.
 

MajorTom

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I had a RaceTech rear shock rebuild done with a heavier spring to accommodate my wife and I riding 2-up. She won't share her weight :), but I'm 210# and we ride with the panniers and trunk jam packed when we tour, so I wouldn't be surprised if we're pushing 500#. The rebuilt shock handles the load with aplomb. No more bottoming out over railway crossings, etc. or wallowing around the corners. Of course that means things are a bit stiff when it's just me on the bike, even with no preload dialed in. Life's a series of compromises.
 
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I have a real layman question. How does one know when his rear shock require overhauling? My shock is a Work shock with one inch shorter than OEM, 30K miles on it.
Kenny
 

dduelin

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Dave, thanks. I'll play around with the dampering screw to see if it makes a difference. I take it if it doesn't, it means time to overhaul the shock. Are there antother symptoms to tell the shock is deteriorating, but not outright dead?
Kenny
 

mlheck

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Adding the Racetech suspension to my bike was the best money I've spent on the bike. We ride 2 up about 30% of the time, so I went one spring rate down from what they recommended for the 2 of us. This has worked out quite while. When the rear shock went out on my ST1100 it felt like the bike was hinged in the middle. If the bike does a lot of moving around when leaned over in a corner, then you probably need a new shock.
 
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I had a RaceTech rear shock rebuild done with a heavier spring to accommodate my wife and I riding 2-up. She won't share her weight :), but I'm 210# and we ride with the panniers and trunk jam packed when we tour, so I wouldn't be surprised if we're pushing 500#. The rebuilt shock handles the load with aplomb. No more bottoming out over railway crossings, etc. or wallowing around the corners. Of course that means things are a bit stiff when it's just me on the bike, even with no preload dialed in. Life's a series of compromises.

What weight spring was put on your rear shock??
 
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