maintenance for some rainy days

sendin

Denny from Sebastopol
Joined
Sep 19, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Sebastopol CA
Bike
2002 ST1100
Got a 2002 non ABS recently and finally put together the maintenance history from the previous 2 owners. I think I know what I should do, but more eyes and sometimes even more opinions are usually helpful! So thanks in advance.

MILEAGE DATE SERVICE
0 5/28/2002 NEW
620 6/12/2002 600 MILE SERVICE OC, O/F BY ORIG DEALER
4755 7/27/2002 4K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
8153 10/26/2002 8K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, NEW NGK CR8EH-9 PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
12799 7/26/2003 12K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032", AIR FILTER
15843 11/22/2003 15K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
17416 6/17/2004 NEW REAR TIRE BRIDGESTONE EXEDRA G548 160/70-17M/C 73V, NEW REAR BRAKE PADS,
18954 7/26/2004 18K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
21108 4/23/2005 21K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
" NEW FRONT TIRE BRIDGESTONE EXEDRA G547 110/80-18M/C 58V, NEW FRONT BRAKE PADS
21270 5/5/2005 NEW PLUGS IRIDIUM NGK CR8EHIX-9 GAPPED 0.032"
25035 11/13/2005 24K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032", REP FINAL DR 80-90W
28326 8/20/2006 27K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
28921 9/30/2006 NEW REAR BRAKE PADS, REP BRAKE FLUID (DOT 4) FRONT & REAR BRAKES ONLY
29140 11/2/2006 NEW AIR FILTER
31539 10/24/2007 30K MILE OC, 3.9 QTS PENNZOIL 10-40W, O/F FRAM PH6017A, PLUGS CHECKED & GAPPED 0.032"
" REPLACED COOLANT, (PRESTONE 50/50 MIX) REPLACED CLUTCH FLUID (DOT 4)
31892 3/8/2009 NEW BATTERY
32070 4/16/2009 NEW REAR TIRE BRIDGESTONE EXEDRA G548 160/70-17M/C 73V
33307 4/17/2011 NEW BATTERY
35558 8/6/2011 OC, O FILTER, COOLANT, RAD CAP
40466 8/9/2012 OC, O FILTER, FINAL DRIVE FLUID, USED MOTUL 20-50 SYN, GEAR LUBE
? 11/16/2012 REAR BRAKES
? 6/28/2013 CLUTCH LINE, BRAKE FLUID
42781 10/23/2014 Current mileage

So I was going to do an oil change, new oil filter, flush and put in new coolant, new brake and clutch fluid, check brake pads, new spark plugs/gapped, new air filter, replace final drive oil, clean and regrease splines on final drive, and for front forks new seals and oil. I was also thinking about carb sync and valve clearances, but that might be above my current pay grade these days; maybe not. I should probably get a nice stand and then all this stuff gets 10 times easier. Denny from Sebastopol
 
Joined
Jun 9, 2012
Messages
400
Location
Paris, TN
Bike
'99 ST1100
STOC #
8606
There is a couple of electrical modifications that are suggested for ST1100's. The ignition circuit is overloaded for the OEM wire size and the connector may melt if it gets corroded. Linky

The second modification is enhancing the ground circuit for the headlights. Linky

Then of course if you want to add farkles you should add a dedicated fuse box. My 12 circuit box is powered using #8 wire and a relay.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,046
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
replace final drive oil, clean and regrease splines on final drive, and for front forks new seals and oil. I was also thinking about carb sync and valve clearances
looks like the final drive oil was recently changed with a good quality synthetic, no need to do it again but it is easy and cheap.

New fork oil is a good idea, but hard to say on the seals. On one hand if they're not leaking why change them, on the other hand if they're original 12 years old and 43k miles then they're probably getting close to leaking anyway.

valve adjust interval is 15k miles, looks like its never been done, good idea to check them to see where they're at. Chances are they will be within spec and you won't have to swap any shims, and just checking them isn't that hard a job.
 
Joined
Sep 10, 2011
Messages
2,211
Location
West Michigan
Bike
'98 ST1100
STOC #
8470
Don't be surprised if your valve clearances are spot-on !! When i got my bike, I checked them and all 16 valves were right in the middle of the range. 20K miles later, the same !! Nice !!

It's not hard to check the clearances, even adjusting ( changing shims ) is fairly easy. The camshafts lift straight out, and then the shims are right under the followers. Don't hesitate to at least check the clearances yourself , IMHO.
 
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
226
Location
Brewerton, NY
Bike
ST1100/ST1300
STOC #
949
Keep to your original plan Denny.....

Plus:

I didn't see where the fuel filter has ever been changed. Use OEM.
Replace the front wheel bearings.
Rebuild, or remove the auto fuel vacuum valve. It's about to fail...

Good luck with the new bike!
 
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
1,387
Age
72
Location
Grand Junction, Colo.
Bike
92 ST1100
For the front forks, lifting the dust seals and using a MotionPro SealMate pulling any unwanted particles of dirt/bugs from sealing edge of fork seals may save the immediate expense of R/R of the front forks;).
 
Joined
Jun 3, 2006
Messages
3,512
Location
British Columbia
Bike
2021 RE Meteor 350
Keep to your original plan Denny.....

Plus:

I didn't see where the fuel filter has ever been changed. Use OEM.
Replace the front wheel bearings.
Rebuild, or remove the auto fuel vacuum valve. It's about to fail...
Wheel bearings aren't likely to be bad at only 42,000 miles. As long as a pressure washer hasn't been used to clean those areas and the dust seals are given a light smear of grease at every tire change, you should easily get 100,000 miles out of those bearings.

My fuel vacuum valve is still functioning well after 110,000 miles, so to say it is about to fail is rather hasty too.

Your list looks quite thorough Denny, but just do the valve clearance check for peace of mind. Get yourself the Honda Service Manual. It will be a big help in all those jobs your pay grade doesn't cover.;)
 
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
226
Location
Brewerton, NY
Bike
ST1100/ST1300
STOC #
949
I've changed quite a few wheel bearings out in the parking lot's of several STOC events. All of those bikes had between 30-50K miles. Many STOC members carry spares just in case. WAY too many auto fuel valves have failed at 30K + miles mark.... Denny's bike has some written history, but STill has a lot of "un-known" care. What may be good for your bike, may not be best, for the rest...
 
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
5,046
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
STOC #
687
I've changed quite a few wheel bearings out in the parking lot's of several STOC events. All of those bikes had between 30-50K miles. Many STOC members carry spares just in case. WAY too many auto fuel valves have failed at 30K + miles mark.... Denny's bike has some written history, but STill has a lot of "un-known" care. What may be good for your bike, may not be best, for the rest...
I'd assume climate and riding conditions are a factor, California bikes typically go a long way on the original bearings, much more than 30-50k.
 

970mike

Mike Brown
Site Supporter
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May 6, 2008
Messages
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66
Location
Lompoc, California
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07 & 12 ST1300A
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LINK
STOC #
8057
I'd assume climate and riding conditions are a factor, California bikes typically go a long way on the original bearings, much more than 30-50k.
125,000 on my original bearings and they were not in to bad of shape after all those miles when I replaced them.
 
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Denny from Sebastopol
Joined
Sep 19, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Sebastopol CA
Bike
2002 ST1100
Thanks for these replies. Will be adding - check valve clearances and I will change the fork job to just changing the oil and giving the seals some gentle attention with the Moition Pro SealMate (already ordered). Going to forgo the front wheel bearing and fuel valve work - but oddly this bike did spend an unknown, but probably short amount of time in New York because it has an inspection sticker on the left fork. It is dated April of 2012 so I think it was the 2nd owner. Anyway - this bike obviously spent a lot of time in a garage and/or covered and driven mostly when it was dry. You can hardly get me off the dang thing!
 

970mike

Mike Brown
Site Supporter
Joined
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Messages
6,167
Age
66
Location
Lompoc, California
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07 & 12 ST1300A
SPOT
LINK
STOC #
8057
Thanks for these replies. Will be adding - check valve clearances and I will change the fork job to just changing the oil and giving the seals some gentle attention with the Moition Pro SealMate (already ordered). Going to forgo the front wheel bearing and fuel valve work - but oddly this bike did spend an unknown, but probably short amount of time in New York because it has an inspection sticker on the left fork. It is dated April of 2012 so I think it was the 2nd owner. Anyway - this bike obviously spent a lot of time in a garage and/or covered and driven mostly when it was dry. You can hardly get me off the dang thing!
Oh now you are hooked for sure!! Enjoy the bike. :D
 
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
86
Age
61
Location
Danville, California
Bike
2002 ST1100A
STOC #
8795
I just got my 2002 a few months ago and it has similar miles/history. Sounds like I have some work to do this winter also!
 
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Denny from Sebastopol
Joined
Sep 19, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Sebastopol CA
Bike
2002 ST1100
JimS63 What the hay - let's hook up! I am going to Rancho Cordova https://www.google.com/maps/place/6213+Excelsior+Rd,+Sacramento,+CA+95829/@38.5142724,-121.2960135,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x809ac2463ecdc175:0x8210b8deedf9f380 this Sunday AM to view some dog agility trials and I just got a carb sync tool for one aspect of my maintenance adventures (you can borrow)
[h=1]Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge Cb Kz Gs Xs 550 650 750 [/h]
PM Me I will check before I pass out I mean fall asleep tonight.

But I just found out that my 2002 ST1100 is *** heavy. I tried to jack it up on a bike lift and it leaned so far back I was scared for the exhaust pipes. The panniers are ore OFF!!! The rear tire is filled with air not lead!! Put her back down and will check again in the AM when I am sober and there is more light. Pretty f'ing weird given the nice tabs off the bottom that would lead one to believe someone has done their balance calcs correctly. Honda who?

Since it is Friday night I hope that everyone who reads this will realize that some parts of this missive was delivered tongue n check and will otherwise have a wonderful weekend! Denny from Sebastopol
 
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Denny from Sebastopol
Joined
Sep 19, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Sebastopol CA
Bike
2002 ST1100
The lift is on hold with a possible solution offered elsewhere here. Maybe tomorrow. Got the coolant flushed and replaced and the holding tank cleaned. Never seen her naked so that took up big part of the day gandering with the Clymer manual in hand. NAPA did not have the plugs so I ordered them online. Someone used some wanky fasteners here and there for the plastic clothing, but I think I can fix most of it.

Then checked valve clearances and found they were all within spec. That was easy like almost everyone here said it was. Tuperware is still off since I am not sure what else I want to do. Still some sunny days out here so I am temped to button her up so I can ride. The tech stuff on here for the ST1100 is very helpful.

What's the name of that heads up display helmet that is coming out in May of 2015? Been trying to remember the name all day. Thanks for the help an suggestions here - Denny from Sebastopol
 

Slydynbye

Will ride for Pie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
1,594
Location
Fremont, California
Bike
2000 ABSII
STOC #
7331
Since you probably have good access you should dis-assemble , clean and lube the shift linkage.
The difference in shifting can be amazing if yours was crusty and under lubricated.


Also check the clutch lever brass pivot, if it is still round just some grease but if it is out of round it is time to replace it.
 
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Denny from Sebastopol
Joined
Sep 19, 2014
Messages
10
Location
Sebastopol CA
Bike
2002 ST1100
OK Will check those two things too.

So I have the Clymer manual and got the Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge Cb Kz Gs Xs 550 650 750 which looks very well made with great and numerous accessories. On page 80 in the Clymer Manual on the bottom rt column it reads - 7A On 49 state and Ca , Switzerland and Austria models, disconnect the no. 2 vacuum hose (A figure 34) and the No. 4 cylinder vacuum hose (B) from the T-fitting on the left side of the engine. 8. Connect the vacuum gauge No. 2 and No. 4 adapters to the No. 2 and No. 4 cylinder vacuum hoses.

So that accounts for what to do with two of the three vacuum hoses. What do I do with the hose that connects to the base of the T-fitting? Just leave it open? Everything else in the instructions make perfect sense. Thanks again - Denny from Sebastopol
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
5,218
Location
Bettendorf, Iowa
Bike
1991 SSMST1100
STOC #
1058
OK Will check those two things too.

So I have the Clymer manual and got the Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge Cb Kz Gs Xs 550 650 750 which looks very well made with great and numerous accessories. On page 80 in the Clymer Manual on the bottom rt column it reads - 7A On 49 state and Ca , Switzerland and Austria models, disconnect the no. 2 vacuum hose (A figure 34) and the No. 4 cylinder vacuum hose (B) from the T-fitting on the left side of the engine. 8. Connect the vacuum gauge No. 2 and No. 4 adapters to the No. 2 and No. 4 cylinder vacuum hoses.

So that accounts for what to do with two of the three vacuum hoses. What do I do with the hose that connects to the base of the T-fitting? Just leave it open? Everything else in the instructions make perfect sense. Thanks again - Denny from Sebastopol
Just leave it open, Denny. It is the vacuum lead/source for the Air Suction Valves (aka: PAIRs). Has no effect on a carb sync.

I don't know if the Clymer manual repeats the serious carb sync procedure error in the Haynes manual so I'll just mention this anyway: the base carb is #4 and the other three carbs are sync'd to it individually and in any order, period!

John
 
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