Do I really need to bleed my brakes to get my rear wheel off?

river

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The shop manual says the rear brakes need to be bled, and indicate if you open the pressure on the brake system all the brakes need to be bled.

Is there an easier way to get the rear wheel off without all the brake bleeding?

Thanks
Jim
 

MajorTom

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Perhaps you can explain what you are trying to do. If you open the braking system the brakes need to be bled, but you don't have to open the system to remove the rear wheel. I hope that answers your question.
 

Kevin_56

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One option is to remove the pads. This gives plenty of clearance to remove the caliper and to put it back on. Then replace the pads back in the caliper. Another option is to gently pry the outboard pad away from the disk. Best to clean the disk pucks before you move them back into the caliper. No need to open the bleed valve for any of the above SUGGESTIONS.
 

ESB

STRIDER
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On the '07 -NON ABS- I do not have to do anything w/Brakes to remove rear wheel.
No clue or info. about the ABS model.
 

BakerBoy

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No, no brake bleeding (or caliper disassembly or brake pad removal) is required on either standard or ABS models to get the rear wheel off.

The key (as is described in the service manual) is to get the exhaust pipes out of the way, remove the lower rear fender extension, remove the rear caliper stopper bolt, pull the axle out far enough that the entire caliper (and the frame it is mounted too) can be lifted up and out (lifted up off the rear disc), and you then tie it up out of the way. The whole rear wheel then slides to rider's left about 3/4" of an inch and comes off the drive splines.

Do NOT press any brake lever or pedal while the rear caliper/pads are removed from the rear disc!
Don't forget to reinstall and properly torque the caliper stopper bolt ... bad things can happen if that bolt is missing or loose.
 

Kevin_56

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No, no brake bleeding (or caliper disassembly or brake pad removal) is required on either standard or ABS models to get the rear wheel off.
This is true. I just find it easier to remove the pads and you then have more wiggle room to put it back over the disk. You also get a chance to look closely at your pads for wear.
 
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This is true. I just find it easier to remove the pads and you then have more wiggle room to put it back over the disk. You also get a chance to look closely at your pads for wear.
I just did my back tire for (seems like) the umpteenth time. I simply remove the Caliper bolt and lift the brake caliper off without removing the pads. Once the caliper is tied to the side, I use two really huge flat blade screwdrivers to spread the pads open slightly (be careful this makes the rear brake fluid level rise slightly). Apply Brake cleaner on all the pads/pins while they are pinned in place. If the pads are worn, replace them. When installing the wheel, the caliper goes on super easy because the clearance between the pads is now greater than the width of the rotor (after the slight spreading operation). Also, remember to inspect rear flange bearing and clean the rear flanges. Apply 5 grams of Moly 60 and torque everything per the shop manual.
 
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