Had forks off doing steering head bearings last night...this morning I find my fork lock will only work when turned to the right. Will not worj to the left. Dark in parking garage...dont feel any cables or wires binding....ideas?
steering lock issue
- Thread starter Igofar
- Start date
Kevin_56
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Never use my steering lock, SO I had to test. Can not help out why yours will not, but it will lock both ways on mine, never knew that.
I am sure you will sort it out. Hope you do not have to loosen all the locking nuts to align the locking plate to the lock.
I am sure you will sort it out. Hope you do not have to loosen all the locking nuts to align the locking plate to the lock.
90210brandon
Be a Zero
Some people say the OEM key is weak and will break off in the ignition.
CYYJ
Michael
The OEM key is not made of the strongest possible material.
In practice, we need to be careful to not apply any significant amount of torque to the OEM key, regardless of what lock cylinder it is being used in.
The greatest risk of busting the OEM key in two pieces (one of which will remain in the lock cylinder, meaning "you're screwed") exists when operating the steering lock and when operating the two latches that attach the panniers to the side of the bike. In those cases, the key cylinder may not always operate easily (like, for example, the way the front left fairing pocket operates), and if we twist too hard on the key, we may break the key.
The solution for those of us in North America is easy enough, we just get a replacement key cut using an aftermarket blank that is made of stronger material than the OEM key. Unfortunately, that's not an option for European riders, whose motos are equipped with the HISS (transponder) system.
Michael
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Igofar
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Got that covered....got about a half dozen keys made last year.
As far as the lock problem goes, I think I figured it out, I'm just not sure how to fix it yet
The key turns effortlessly and falls into the frame hole when turned to the right, however, the left side won't and I have to wiggle the bars and "find" the spot perfectly to get it to work.
There is nothing binding, the hold in the frame is clean, I chamfered the edge of the opening even, and applied some grease to it, as well as the lock pin. It does not appear damaged or bent etc.
Here's what I think happened: While doing the steering head bearings, following the instructions to the letter, I replaced the stem, adjusted the torque, re-set the torque, then replaced the fork tubes and only torqued the (4) lower ones to hold the forks in place while I replaced the top triple clamp, leaving those two bolts loose for assembly reasons...wrong idea.....senior moment....etc.
when I torqued the stem nut down, it moved the tree downward and miss aligned the lock dowel and the hole in the frame.
I tore it all apart again tonight, re-adjusted everything, and made sure I tightened them down this time to keep the top tree from moving again.
Seems to have worked, I can now lock and unlock it to the left, just not as easy as to the right for some reason.
I'm considering locking the pin into the frame, then loosening all the fork bolts and then re-doing them to see if that helps.
Anyone got any better ideas?
Igofar
As far as the lock problem goes, I think I figured it out, I'm just not sure how to fix it yet
The key turns effortlessly and falls into the frame hole when turned to the right, however, the left side won't and I have to wiggle the bars and "find" the spot perfectly to get it to work.
There is nothing binding, the hold in the frame is clean, I chamfered the edge of the opening even, and applied some grease to it, as well as the lock pin. It does not appear damaged or bent etc.
Here's what I think happened: While doing the steering head bearings, following the instructions to the letter, I replaced the stem, adjusted the torque, re-set the torque, then replaced the fork tubes and only torqued the (4) lower ones to hold the forks in place while I replaced the top triple clamp, leaving those two bolts loose for assembly reasons...wrong idea.....senior moment....etc.
when I torqued the stem nut down, it moved the tree downward and miss aligned the lock dowel and the hole in the frame.
I tore it all apart again tonight, re-adjusted everything, and made sure I tightened them down this time to keep the top tree from moving again.
Seems to have worked, I can now lock and unlock it to the left, just not as easy as to the right for some reason.
I'm considering locking the pin into the frame, then loosening all the fork bolts and then re-doing them to see if that helps.
Anyone got any better ideas?
Igofar
Thanks for the clarification re. key strength. In my case, the lock doesn't seem to take more force than the ignition.
Since my bike has HISS, am I right in thinking it is of little use replacing the key, as I will have to replace it with (an equally weak) Honda key (with transponder)?
Since my bike has HISS, am I right in thinking it is of little use replacing the key, as I will have to replace it with (an equally weak) Honda key (with transponder)?
I'm thinking you could get a replacement key cut using an aftermarket blank that is made of stronger material than the OEM key, but it would only be good for the locks, wouldn't let you start the bike. That's what I did to get a spare key for my Mustang, so I can get into the car in case I ever have a senior moment and lock the ignition key in the car. It also will lock/unlock the glove compartment and trunk.
I think you may have misaligned the for legs and have a slight twist between upper and lower trees causing the lock pin to not line up on the left. Loosen absolutely every bolt and the axle aslothe fender bolts and brake line brackets absolutely anything tying the fork legs together, then line up the fork tube with the top of the upper tree and torque the pinch bolts on the upper tree. Have someone support the back of the bike upright while you do a few plunges of the front forks to line everything up. Torque all the pinch bolts evenly bit by bit side to side so you don't do all one side then the other. careful not to bump or disturb anything while doing this. That should line things up and the lock should work.
CYYJ
Michael
Hi Peter:
Not necessarily. The HISS system works by recognizing the proximity of the transponder embedded in the head of the key. If you had an aftermarket key (without a transponder chip) cut, and your OEM key (with the chip) busted in half, you could throw away the lower half - the key blade half - of the OEM key, and put both the aftermarket key and the head of the original key on the same key ring. Then, when you want to start the bike, all you have to do is ensure that the head of the original key is within about an inch or so of the ignition switch. It won't matter that the aftermarket key is the one actually stuck in the ignition, as long as the original key head (with the transponder embedded in it) is proximate to the ignition switch, it will be recognized and the anti-theft system will authorize the start process.
There is quite a body of discussion of that subject here in the forum - do a keyword seach for 'HISS' or 'transponder' and you will likely find all the discussions about this subject.
For what it's worth, on the same subject, I was quite surprised when I had to replace the ignition switch on my VW Phaeton a year ago, and found out that all Phaetons (and all Touregs) in the world use the same ignition switch. The ignition switch doesn't even pay attention to the cuts in the key blade (it has no tumblers in it at all, you could stuff a Popsicle stick into it and twist the switch). Instead, all the ignition switch does is look for the transponder embedded in the head of the VW key. If it finds the transponder, it starts. If it doesn't, it won't start. The pattern cut into the key blade itself is only used (recognized) by the locks on the driver door and the trunk.
Michael
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Igofar
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I have got to stop working until early morning hours in the garage
Removed wheel and loosened everything etc.
Lock now works....thanks much!
I got lazy and did one fork leg at a time....and I know better.
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For thought or the next time assemble everything - forks, wheel, fender etc tight enough to support the bike weight then place your floor jack under the engine and get the weight off the front wheel. Loosen the clamp bolts and let the jack set the fork tube height in the clamps. Drop or raise the jack and the tubes slide up and down as a unit in horizontal alignment. Torque the clamp bolts then loosen the axle pinch bolts left side ??, bounce the forks to set the tubes in vertical alignment. I'm sure you knew this though but just worked to late into the night.
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Igofar
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I normally use a K&L center jack under engine.....use axle through the forks...loosen everything then use axle to lift forks into place...then tighten everything in a criss cross method after whackin' everthing with a big ole rubber mallet lol.
Thanks for the suggestion though...it was a 18hr day and my brain was like oatmeal
Thanks for the suggestion though...it was a 18hr day and my brain was like oatmeal
No problem glad it helped out
MileHigh
Juvenile delinquent
I did my steering head bearings a year ago and have the similar problem. Steering lock no longer works. Been planning to take a look this year and see what is up.
Take a look at this thread- https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?112172-Just-replaced-steering-head-bearings-w-tapered-and-now-the-fork-won-t-lock
Look at post #7