Tony Worrall's "Pendle Parking Brake" for the ST 1300

STraymond

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Thanks for the response. I would definitely stay nearby in the incline scenario.


Ray



Yes- no question. It can maintain more than enough brake power to prevent the front wheel from turning regardless of the incline. If the incline were steep enough the tire would slide before the wheel will turn if the park brake was applied with enough force. I would not walk away and leave it alone however- not because I have any concern that the park brake will fail but because if anyone squeezes the brake lever the park brake releases instantly as it is designed to do.
 
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Michael
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Just wondering, for those of you that have one of Tony's parking brakes, do you have enough confidence that you would put the bike on its side stand and in neutral and warm it up while parked on an incline?
NO NO NO NO NO... that's way beyond the scope of what the device was designed for.

Sure, it will apply sufficient pressure to the front brake to keep the motorcycle in one place on a steep incline - but, remember that it was designed so that the slightest movement of the front brake lever will result in rapid and positive complete disengagement of the park brake. That's an important safety feature of the device, but it means that use of the device is strictly limited to times when the rider is astride the motorcycle.

Based on 12 years and 100,000 miles of using the Middleton handbrake on my ST 1100 (a similar design, now out of production), I don't recommend that anyone ever depend on using the handbrake to secure the motorcycle when they are not astride it. I tried to make that clear in my original review (post #1), when I wrote:

...Be aware that it is only intended to be used when the rider is astride the motorcycle - in other words, if you want to park your bike on a hill using the side-stand, you put the engine in gear as you normally would. This handbrake would hold the moto parked on a hill, but if anyone bumps the front brake lever, the handbrake will instantly release, as it is designed to do.
Michael
 

T_C

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Not to mention the possibility of a slow hydraulic fluid leak around the actuator piston during an extended lock that may allow the braking effect to be reduced.
 

STraymond

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OK - but still a nice farkle.



NO NO NO NO NO... that's way beyond the scope of what the device was designed for.

Sure, it will apply sufficient pressure to the front brake to keep the motorcycle in one place on a steep incline - but, remember that it was designed so that the slightest movement of the front brake lever will result in rapid and positive complete disengagement of the park brake. That's an important safety feature of the device, but it means that use of the device is strictly limited to times when the rider is astride the motorcycle.

Based on 12 years and 100,000 miles of using the Middleton handbrake on my ST 1100 (a similar design, now out of production), I don't recommend that anyone ever depend on using the handbrake to secure the motorcycle when they are not astride it. I tried to make that clear in my original review (post #1), when I wrote:



Michael
 

JZH

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if I remember correctly he said there was at least three different suppliers. Whether or not that means three different manufacturers is another question. You will need to ask him if you are curious as he is on this site. It is a question I did not pursue, and therefore cannot answer, as it is of little consequence to me as I have a good product and Tony was great to deal with- which is what did concern me.
Perhaps there was a misunderstanding. Perhaps it was NISSIN that had three different suppliers? As I said, I've never seen any non-NISSIN masters on Honda street bikes of this era, so I would have been very surprised if Honda had used more than one OEM on the ST1300 models. If the outer dimensions of the master cylinder assembly were not spec'd, or not precisely spec'd, that could account for the differences in those areas--and the unforeseen difficulties Tony encountered while trying to rely on certain non-spec'd dimensions for his design.

Ciao,
 

SteveST1300

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My brake came yesterday but I don't get my bike back until Saturday looking forwar d to installing this farkle. It came with very good instructions and all you need to do the install thanks Tony!
 
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Would a thin piece of ABS plastic work, between the pats, to avoid corrosion?
It would be easier to work with, for most people.
 

ST Gui

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Would a thin piece of ABS plastic work, between the pats, to avoid corrosion?
It would be easier to work with, for most people.
Good question. It would accomplish the same end but short term I think. Eventually the adjustment screw would probably dig through the plastic. Dressing the end of the screw as Andrew did would probably slow the wear considerably.

How much pressure does that screw exert? That would be worth considering.
 
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This was my solution to protecting the aluminium resevoir- a thin piece of steel sheet metal I cut to match and attached using some very thin double sided tape to keep the dis-similar metals from making contact. With everything assembled you would never see it unless you specifically looked.

PB020001.jpg
Great ideat! I might try to find a small piece of sheet stainless for this - to forestall rusting when the bike gets caught in the rain. Alternatively, I have some hdpe plastic (high density polyethylene) that is sold by woodworking supply shops. This stuff comes in sheets 1/8, 1/4, etc. inch thicknesses. The only downside is that it tends not to stick to anything. I'll have to experiment with some double faced tape to see how I can affix a small piece in position. I also have a block of nylon that was used as a guide for wire drawing by a nearby factory. I could cut off a small piece and machine it into a 'cap' for the adjustment screw. I would think this too might wear the paint over time, where the steel tab Andrew used would spread the load over a greater area.
 

Andrew Shadow

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How much pressure does that screw exert?
All depends on how much brake force you want the park brake to apply. The set-screw can be adjusted so that it will hold the brake lever as tightly as you can squeeze it. I wouldn't recomend it though- to much stress on the brake lever, the reservoir where the set-screw seats and the park brake for no reason as I can't imagine any situation where you would need that much brake force. It really doesn't take that much brake force to keep a stationary bike from moving.
 
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Michael
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...It really doesn't take that much brake force to keep a stationary bike from moving.
Exactly.

I have mine set to apply perhaps 15 to 20% of available front brake application force. That is more than sufficient to keep the bike stopped on any incline.

Another way of expressing the above would be to say that you should be able to pull the brake lever not only to, but past the engagement hole using only the little finger of your right hand. If you have the device adjusted so that it applies any more force than that, it is a bit of a waste of effort.

I've put a small rubber cap (from the end of a bungee cord hook) over the end of my set-screw. That, plus appropriate adjustment of the device, should be sufficient to ensure that there is no scratching of the paint where the set-screw touches the master cylinder.

Michael
 

ST Gui

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It really doesn't take that much brake force to keep a stationary bike from moving.
Right. I know this from holding the bike still on hills at a stop light. It's just moderate pressure on the front brake. So a piece of sturdy plastic would work but for how long I don't know.
 
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Has anyone done anything to address the issue Andrew found with the parking brake 'arm' rubbing on the top paint of the brake lever? This is not the same as the stop screw abrading the paint on the reservoir. See 4th picture, post 28 (caption: Then I noticed....)
 
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Michael
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Has anyone done anything to address the issue Andrew found with the parking brake 'arm' rubbing on the top paint of the brake lever?
I have not observed that happening at all on my installation. It's possible that either Honda changed the shape of the master cylinder casting slightly (even if inadvertently), or; Tony modified the design of the arm a bit.

Michael
 

T_C

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Exactly.

I have mine set to apply perhaps 15 to 20% of available front brake application force. That is more than sufficient to keep the bike stopped on any incline.
There are a few hills around where this does not work. I explored a bit of Deadwood this year... ventured up a side street to where it dead-ended. I discovered that on certain inclines the front brake will not hold the bike in place. Hopefully you never learn this personally... it wasn't fun!
 
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