Progressive shock and drive shaft questions

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

Hey guys I have a few questions.
I took some of the fairing off to see if I can adjust the shock height and I saw the shock is not OEM but from Progressive and I knew that it was possible. But the problem is, I can turn the whole shock in place maybe quarter of an inch each way. It doesn't wiggle side to side at all though. Is there some kind of bushing missing or is this normal?

Also for the drive shaft
- how do I check the fluid?
- where do I fill up and drain?

Do I screw the shiny chrome piece off to fill with fluid?

And do I unscrew the most bottom bolt to drain the fluid?

How much do I fill it up with?

Thank you!!!!

cammy moir · Dec 9, 2014

Hi. In the last photo the bolt to the left of the axle bolt is the filler hole - always unscrew this one first. The drain is directly below the axle bolt. Once drained, with the bike on the centre stand, fill it till the fluid comes up to the edge of the opening. Sorry I can not help with the shock. Cheers

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

Thanks!!
Any drive shaft fluid you recommend that they sell in the US as well(I see you're in Scotland)?

Also what is that chrome cap looking thing on top of the drive shaft?

Lastly when do I change the fluid? I have the factory manual but I can't seem to find it unless I'm an idiot.

JPKalishek · Dec 9, 2014

for gear oil I used a synthetic blend mainly because I had it on hand.
The progressive shock likely has spherical bearings and will rotate on those, but not have the side to side play

afrymoyer · Dec 9, 2014

Yes, the rear shock is a Progressive. During adjustment, it is normal for it to twist / turn, as you have mentioned. The shock bushings are a "ball-socket" design. Use caution when adjusting. Be sure to clean the aluminum threads on the shock body before turning the adjustment collar, otherwise you'll have a good chance of messing up the threads if not clean. Afterwards, Put some kind of grease / lube onto the threads and adjust the collar up into the lube. This will also help with future adjustments.

I also see from your pix, that someone has had that shock apart before. The adjuster locking collar is missing. There should be TWO collars (double spanner collars). One for making adjustments, the other to lock the adjuster in place. Your locking collar is missing....

Personally, I use Amsoil 75/W90 Marine gear oil in my final drive and I change it every other year. You'll get a ton of different opinions on this topic....

The chrome cap up on top of the gear box is the breather assy.

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

afrymoyer said:
Yes, the rear shock is a Progressive. During adjustment, it is normal for it to twist / turn, as you have mentioned. The shock bushings are a "ball-socket" design. Use caution when adjusting. Be sure to clean the aluminum threads on the shock body before turning the adjustment collar, otherwise you'll have a good chance of messing up the threads if not clean. Afterwards, Put some kind of grease / lube onto the threads and adjust the collar up into the lube. This will also help with future adjustments.

I also see from your pix, that someone has had that shock apart before. The adjuster locking collar is missing. There should be TWO collars (double spanner collars). One for making adjustments, the other to lock the adjuster in place. Your locking collar is missing....

Personally, I use Amsoil 75/W90 Marine gear oil in my final drive and I change it every other year. You'll get a ton of different opinions on this topic....

The chrome cap up on top of the gear box is the breather assy.

I see. So change it every year or two?

And that sucks....will not having the lock collar be detrimental to the shock or will it just mean i will have to keep readjusting it every so often?

thanks for the detailed post!

Bigmak96 · Dec 9, 2014

Be sure to loosen your fill plug prior to draining. Some have emptied the drive only find the fill plug stuck.

afrymoyer · Dec 9, 2014

suprabuddha said:
I see. So change it every year or two?

And that sucks....will not having the lock collar be detrimental to the shock or will it just mean i will have to keep readjusting it every so often?

thanks for the detailed post!

The gear oil starts getting dirty around the 15,000 mark. So, if your annual mileage is around that, then change every year. If under that, go longer. You'll never get into trouble or cause any harm by changing early....

Check the level and condition regularly throughout the year. Remember buying a quart of your favorite gear oil will last for around three oil changes.

The rear Progressive shock IS serviceable. Being that it's winter time, take it off and have it rebuilt / repaired by Progressive and have them replace the missing collar. You might even be able to buy the part and fix yourself. Personally, I wouldn't trust the adjusting collar to hold it's adjustment without the locking collar in place. Over time it may wear out those cheesy aluminum threads rendering the shock useless. Might as well fix it now while you still can. A new shock is $400....

kiltman · Dec 9, 2014

I use just standard 80/90 gear oil and change it at every oil change. It only takes a couple of minutes extra to do and a couple dollars worth of oil. I also monitor how fine the filings are from the splines in the discarded oil. For the most part it hasn't been an issue.

GreenZR · Dec 9, 2014

First, welcome from Southern Indiana!

I have the Progressve 465 rear shock, and yes it is normal for the shock to move like that.

This might be some help on it.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?105337-Progressive-465-oddity/page3

Drain and fill the final drive as mentioned above.

Gary.

Bush · Dec 9, 2014

Suprabuddha sounds like a bit of a novice to this wrenching thing, so I would advise you to be very careful not to use gorilla like hands when tightening those drain/fill bolts. On the inside of the drain bolt, Honda had embedded a small magnet, put there to collect fine shavings of metal from the ring gears. Clean that out before reinstalling the bolt. Also, I'd suggest you use a SYNTHETIC gear oil (Castrol makes a 75W/90 synthetic that I use). You will never find metal bits on that bolt magnet again with synthetic gear oil.

Fill until it just starts to run out the fill hole.

FYI, this part is called the final drive case, not the driveshaft. It would be very helpful for you, if you plan to do much wrenching on your "new" baby, to buy a Honda Service Manual for your year of bike.

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

Thanks a bunch for the help you guys.

I emailed progressive themselves and unfortunately got a response stating that I have the old 420 model and it is no longer serviceable because it has been long discontinued.

the guy I'm talking to isn't sure him self if the model comes with a locking collar but I asked if it would be a problem with out it. Haven't got an reply for that question yet. But seeing he seems to be somewhat clueless I'm not too optimistic about response I will be getting.

In order to get the most height shaven off I screwed the collar all the way up so the spring is stretched to the top leaving no room for it to go anywhere. This is why I'm assuming I can live with out the locking collar if it did indeed come with one.

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

Bush said:
Suprabuddha sounds like a bit of a novice to this wrenching thing, so I would advise you to be very careful not to use gorilla like hands when tightening those drain/fill bolts. On the inside of the drain bolt, Honda had embedded a small magnet, put there to collect fine shavings of metal from the ring gears. Clean that out before reinstalling the bolt. Also, I'd suggest you use a SYNTHETIC gear oil (Castrol makes a 75W/90 synthetic that I use). You will never find metal bits on that bolt magnet again with synthetic gear oil.

Fill until it just starts to run out the fill hole.

FYI, this part is called the final drive case, not the driveshaft. It would be very helpful for you, if you plan to do much wrenching on your "new" baby, to buy a Honda Service Manual for your year of bike.

Thank you very much. Yes I'm aware of not over tightening things on a motorcycle. Became well aware of that while working on my first motorcycle...a sportster lol.

i do have a service manual but like most factory service manuals...it's hard to understand for a novice...speaking only for my self that is.

thanks for the tip about the magnet. Do you guys use torque specs for these bolts?

One last thing. Are these mirrors unadjustable???

Mark · Dec 9, 2014

The drain on the bottom left in your picture is plastic with an o-ring. Do Not Overtighten this drain... you will crack it and regret the crack!

The mirrors are adjustable. I suggest you pop the mirror covers off and have a look at the adjustment possible and then put the covers back on, sit on the bike and push the mirrors around until they are correct for you.

Bush · Dec 9, 2014

Mark, do you mean the filler bolt, when you speak of plastic? The drain is certainly steel, but my filler is aluminum. Did some 1100 models have a plastic filler bolt?

Mark · Dec 9, 2014

Large gray/grey cap on the left of the 2nd of your pictures.
If it is not plastic it is a very cheap fragile material which will crack...

sirepair · Dec 9, 2014

suprabuddha said:
Thanks a bunch for the help you guys.

I emailed progressive themselves and unfortunately got a response stating that I have the old 420 model and it is no longer serviceable because it has been long discontinued.

Hmmm, well I was considering sending my 420 in for service, but had not heard that Progressive no longer serviced them. I will go ahead and contact them and if they will not service my current 420 I will take my $$ elsewhere and purchase a different shock! Kinda defeats the purpose of having a rebuildable shock....

suprabuddha · Dec 9, 2014

Thanks Mark!

sirepair said:
Hmmm, well I was considering sending my 420 in for service, but had not heard that Progressive no longer serviced them. I will go ahead and contact them and if they will not service my current 420 I will take my $$ elsewhere and purchase a different shock! Kinda defeats the purpose of having a rebuildable shock....

Yup. Spoke to Gerrad through email. He made it clear that because it's been discontinued for a long time they no longer have any spare parts or literature left so they can't fix it. He wasn't even sure if the 420 came with a locking ring. I think after seeing some stock pictures it does indeed come with one. I have no idea why the previous owner would remove it..

asked some ebay sellers who sell the 420 shock if they sell the locking ring and one replied no..assume the others will say the same thing.

i did make a wanted thread in the wanted sub section so fingers crossed...

Honestly with the spring depressed all the way up i don't really see a reason to have one though. ..

GreenZR · Dec 9, 2014

Suprabuddha, where are you located? I'm sure someone here is close enough to give you a hand with things. Look for Tech Events in your area, great way to learn and have a great time.

Gary.

SMSW · Dec 9, 2014

cammy moir said:
Hi. In the last photo the bolt to the left of the axle bolt is the filler hole - always unscrew this one first. The drain is directly below the axle bolt. Once drained, with the bike on the centre stand, fill it till the fluid comes up to the edge of the opening. Sorry I can not help with the shock. Cheers

It is helpful to replace the drain bolt before you start filling the final drive. I like to use Honda's hypoid gear oil. It is not expensive.

Progressive shock and drive shaft questions

suprabuddha

cammy moir

suprabuddha

JPKalishek

Armadillo Kicker

afrymoyer

suprabuddha

Bigmak96

R.I.P. - 2021/08/07

afrymoyer

kiltman

GreenZR

Bush

suprabuddha

suprabuddha

Mark

Gotta make tracks

Bush

Mark

Gotta make tracks

sirepair

Let's RIDE!

suprabuddha

GreenZR

SMSW