TCS ABS lights on steady after brake fluid replacement

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Dec 18, 2014
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ST1100AY
Hi

I'm waiting for my Service Manuals to arrive so can't easily troubleshoot this problem myself and would appreciate any thoughts.

ST1100AY (2000) TCS ABS

Just back from a local bike garage (not Honda) where I had a full service including brake pads and fluid change plus new tyres, both fork seals replaced

Bike ran fine for 10km then I noticed a rubbing sound , it sounded like pads on disk so I didn't pay too much attention figuring they would need to bed in or I had a sticky piston.

At 20 km the ABS red light and TCS red light plus TCS yellow light all came on steady.

I pulled over and switched off, upon restarting I have flashing ABS and TCS as normal. Got moving again and both ABS red and TCS red went steady (but no yellow TCS) Rubbing noise less than before.

Came home slowly and have had to leave the bike now and dash out by car.

Without knowing much about the TCS and ABS system on this bike I figure it may be :

damaged sensors during pad installation
faulty electrical connectors
air in brake fluid


does any of this sound familiar and if so could you kindly give me a steer until I get my manuals

Many thanks

Steve
 
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First thing I would check since you heard "rubbing sounds" would be if the pads were put in correctly, or if the clips were damaged etc.
Check to make sure the pads are seated square and the pins are torqued correctly. A pad retaining pin may have loosened up, or not been tightened correctly, and worked loose causing the pad to tilt, thus causing the rubbing sounds etc.
I hope its something that simple.
I have seen shops put pads in backwards before, and one pad would be metal against metal!
Since most shops also cut corners, I would check to see if they used a mity vac, or bled it quickly, and left air in the system.
I would not risk riding it at all as long as lights are warning you of possible failure in the brake system.
Let us know what you find.
Igofar
 

Ron

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The front sensor bracket is held in place by a screw that was removed to remove caliper. This is needed to remove the front wheel and to replace the brake pads. For installation of the caliper a couple things must be done. There are 2 screws that holds the sensor bracket in place. One screw holds the bracket and another screw that helps locate the sensor bracket. The locating screw has a shank that goes into a hole on the sensor bracket to help locate it. It must be lined up correctly before the other screw is tightened. Parts break out @:

www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1996-honda-st1100-abs-st1100a/o/m151479#sch17716 Note both left and right caliper brackets are shown.

Look for screw #33 that has a shank that goes into the top hole on part #27 (sensor bracket). Screw #32 secures the sensor bracket in place.


Hope this can be understood and you can get it going. I cut a groove into my sensor with the "gear" when I first got my ST. Luckily for me the sensor still worked. :)
 
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aSTerix
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Thank you for all the posts, very informative and useful.

I was able to follow the procedure to find fault codes, it is 5 and 7.

I recall reading something about air in the brake system causing some modulator to overload and blow a fuse. Although it could be just a bad connection or the

As soon as I get the chance I will strip the front end down myself and investigate and post the results

Huge thank you for your comments and suggestions, this is such a nice friendly forum and makes me pleased to have chosen the Honda ST
 
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aSTerix
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I took the front ABS sensor off and i am assuming that it's not meant to have the groove !!

Checked at Honda and they want $170 for a replacement, looks like i will be hunting eBay

Fuses are all good so I'm not sure what the power supply fault code is.

I'm still not sure how it was misaligned because it wasn't me who put it back together but i will sit with the mechanic when the replacement goes back in

Is there any adjustment or measurement i have to take or is it just a case of making sure everythIng is seated and tightened correctly




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aSTerix
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Check the air gap between the sensors and the pulsar rings. The rubbing sound might be the sensor catching the pulsar ring. Check that the castellation in the pulsar ring hasn't got muck in it. Extract the wire brush bristle from between the pulsar ring and the sensor.
I wasn't able to find the "wire brush bristle" (between the pulsar ring and the sensor) on the bike. Do you perhaps have a part number or photo, many thanks Steve
 
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aSTerix
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Is this the ABS wire brush, i had the Honda dealer look and they found a reference in a Parts catalogue addendum, it has Honda code WDYPML


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aSTerix
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Just for historical accuracy, there is no ABS wire brush !! I did actually go looking for one thinking I had missed it !! Having then worked out that I had misread the post I couldn't resist the spoof part WDYPML (Why Don't You Pull My Leg)
 
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aSTerix
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Looks like I have found the problem that triggered the ABS secondary code (7) Power Supply:

The cable wires at the connector end (opposite end to sensor) have been stripped of insulation and the bare conductors are exposed and touching.

Interestingly, when I took the ABS sensor off my second donor bike it had exactly the same cable wire problem so it looks like this might be a recurring problem, problem is the connector is a real pain to get to with fairing in place.

Photos will follow
 
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aSTerix
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This is the ABS sensor that triggered the Electrical fault code it's very hot in Dubai most of the year so i suspect that caused the Insulation degradation


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aSTerix
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This is when I wish I had bought that box of miscellaneous electrical connector repair terminal and crimps I saw on eBay a while back !!

I didn't so if anyone has any suggestions how I can safely extract the physical brass connectors from inside the plastic housing I would be very grateful (that way I can slip heat shrink tubing over the individual wires.

I need to remove the corrosion on the wires and was wondering if I should use Acetic acid (vinegar) or phosphoric acid (coke) , might try one on each and see what effects it has, not much to lose

Any other repair suggestions very much welcome, thanks Steve (Asterysk)
 
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aSTerix
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Just in case anyone else experiences the same problem and decides to repair the connector, its a Sumitomo HM 090 Series 3 wire and cost $3.55 including crimp barrels and seal, I have just ordered one (well actually decided to order a kit of connectors of different types that I am likely to find on the ST).
 
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aSTerix
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I'm back on the road again, huge thank you to all for your very useful tips and comments.

Interestingly my ABS lights go out a lot quicker now, probably within 1 second of moving off compared to about 10 seconds before. I think that my main problem was the degraded insulation on the sensor wire rather than the groove I inadvertently cut in the end.

It definitely looks like the insulation on the ABS sensor degraded with heat and time, I will take some photos and start a new thread about the problem
 
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