alternator

any problem running some heated clothing with my 28 alt.?

I used to unplug one headlight when running 'lectrics. That being said, tick-tock, tick-tock.

Do check the connectors at the VR/R and look for any source of resistance/corrosion at all the wire connectors. Also, polish the battery and cable terminals and the main ground where it bolts to the block down by the starter. There is also a wiring mod which reduces voltage drop but don't have a link to the details in front of me. Google search should turn it up.

Given proper maintenance, no reason the 28 amper can't serve for the life of the bike. Keep us poSTed.

I run a heated vest and heated grips. As mentioned in George's post above, make sure you service all your connectors or you WILL have trouble. Get a digital voltmeter installed and monitor the system, then you can easily shut down your heated accessories when your voltage drops below charging rates.

I ran a heated vest on cool occasions and had 55/60W headlight bulbs for 19 years and over 100,000 miles, until my 28 amper on my '95 ST died. You only have about 10 watts to spare with that system, so don't overload it. The red 3P connector from the alternator to the VRR should be removed to eliminate that one source of most 28 amp problems.

I did encounter a failure three times. On the first occasion the white connector to the VRR melted ( I was warned about this on the forum and I thought it looked good but was wrong) The dealer replaced the VRR and made new connections. My red connector melted the second time round and I replaced the connectors and also did the yellow alternator wires,(soldered the wires and bypassed the connector) My third time was my fault. It was the red wire connector again and I should have replaced the corroded wire ( I thought it was clean enough but was wrong) I cut back all the corroded wire spliced in clean wire applied plenty of dielectric grease to all connections. Since then I haven't had any problems with the system. I've made myself a little kit to store in the tail section. I have premade wire connections with spade clips and a crimping tool, in case a connector fails I can easily replaced the burned out section.

kiltman said:

I've made myself a little kit to store in the tail section. I have premade wire connections with spade clips and a crimping tool, in case a connector fails I can easily replaced the burned out section.

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Interesting idea Robert. I do carry a spare VRR in the toolkit. I still haven't put the 40 amper in.

DeanR said:

Interesting idea Robert. I do carry a spare VRR in the toolkit. I still haven't put the 40 amper in.

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Dean, have you scheduled a time to install that puppy?

kiltman said:

Dean, have you scheduled a time to install that puppy?

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Nope. Made it through last year without a problem. But I have a decision to make in anticipation of a possible trip west this year.

I think the key to this is keeping those connectors in check. Lots of Dielectric grease to keep away the moisture, Making sure the connectors are tight, clean. The red connector for the main fuse is the worse for being able to collect water and get corroded. However if you have all the components I guess jumping in and doing it is the way to go.

Bush said:

You only have about 10 watts to spare with that system...

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Methinks that you'd meant 10 Amps there, not Watts...
If memory serves right the 28A system offers a max surplus of like 120 to 140W... on this you'll have to include all accessories operated; heated handles, stereo, satnav, aux lights, etc...

ST1100Y said:

Methinks that you'd meant 10 Amps there, not Watts...
If memory serves right the 28A system offers a max surplus of like 120 to 140W... on this you'll have to include all accessories operated; heated handles, stereo, satnav, aux lights, etc...

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You're right. I should have said amps. Talking of my headlight watts must have stuck 'watts' in my head.

Ive run heated grips on mine a long time before going to the 40. Long as things are in good order, and you keep it lightly loaded, the 28er should last awhile.