Placing order for new t-stat...additional parts?

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I just spent 2 hours reading and finding some great info here on how to replace a bad thermostat. I am ecstatic to learn that a properly working one should solve my dismal 30mpg economy I got on my first tank.

Before I order it though, are there any other parts to consider getting? I was thinking about getting some extra pop-rivets for the front fairing as a few are in bad shape...anything else? So far I am getting a thermostat and an o-ring. Btw I have almost 29k on my 04 that I bought one month ago. The dealership changed oil & filter when I bought it. Thanks, doug
 
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These are the items I like to have handy.

Spare oil filter
Pad Set, Front 06455-MCS-G01, you ned 2 sets
Pad Set, Rear 06435-MCS-G01
Honda Brake / Clutch fluid
Honda Final drive oil
Moly 60 Paste, 08734-0001 For the final drive splines
Rear Flange O-RING (61X2) 91302-MA6-003 For the final drive splines
Rear Flange O-RING (50.5X3.5) 91358-MG9-003 For the final drive splines
 

dduelin

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I would replace the original thermostat housing O-ring which is part number 91361-SF4-951. It seals the two housing halves together and is a source of coolant weeps, seeps, or leaks.
 
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Thanks for the replies. The schematic lists two O-rings, both #25:
orings002.jpg
orings.jpg
Any guess to which one? Both? More than one of either? Thanks!
 

dduelin

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The model code in part numbers for the ST1300 is MCS so that one is a safe bet. I think the O ring is identical in both numbers, one could could have superseded the other, no worries, they will ship the right one. Or go to a supply house and get a 1.75" by 3/32" O ring. That's what I did. This one will be slightly thicker but still fits and may seal better for the long run. The Honda one is really skinny for the groove it fits.
 
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Don't forget the new antifreeze....Honda car dealers have it cheaper if you want to stay original..........ff
 
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Umm...local Honda dealer? If "local" is within 110 miles then yes, I have a local Honda dealer; and that is a car dealer (although there might be a Honda motorcycle dealer in that town). Other options?
 

T_C

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Any of your preferred antifreeze will do, AS LONG AS IT SAYS SILICATE FREE!

You can buy the pre-diluted stuff at WallWorld, or buy the full strength and dilute yourself. If you dilute yourself, be sure to use distilled water. Tap water might have enough minerals in it to cause the same damage as the silicate.

Silicate is added to anti-freeze to help scour lime and other buildup off the inside of the engine cooling system. The problem with an ST1300 is they use a ceramic seal on the waterpump, and it does not play well with little particles running around in there.
 
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In Dave's thorough write up on draining radiator, he mentions replacing the two sealing washers for the crankcase bolts. However, I've already ordered the other parts! Are there some similar washers I can pick up at a local auto store? Thanks.
 
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My experience, is there's so little antifreeze left in the block I skipped the drain bolts...much easier, BTW....and it didn't blow up or catch on fire......just whatever comes out when you drain the lower hose to replace the T stat........was good enough for me..........ff
 

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In Dave's thorough write up on draining radiator, he mentions replacing the two sealing washers for the crankcase bolts. However, I've already ordered the other parts! Are there some similar washers I can pick up at a local auto store? Thanks.
I need to point out and give credit to the member that wrote it, Leo7x24. All I did was save copies of his excellent tutorials.

To your point I would remove the two 10mm drains as this is the first coolant flush. Not much coolant comes out but the jacket galleries they are tapped into could trap sediment or trash. I have reused the washers in the past. Any thin copper sealing washer you can find would work if you wanted to replace them just pay attention to torquing them.
 

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My experience, is there's so little antifreeze left in the block I skipped the drain bolts...much easier, BTW....and it didn't blow up or catch on fire......just whatever comes out when you drain the lower hose to replace the T stat........was good enough for me..........ff
I do the same on my ST
 
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Fortunately the website/store I ordered from was closed yesterday and therefore hadn't shipped my order. I was able to add the washers without any additional shipping charge. It turns out it is a Honda dealer up in Washington and the confirmation email stated that it could take 5 business days to ship as they don't carry all their parts in stock. Guess the t-stat swap may not happen for a couple of weeks...
 

Kevin_56

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Remove the two drain bolts that are easiest to get at. One side is way easier than the other. When you see you much, or should I say little comes out. You decide if the other side is worth the effort. I chose not to do the other side and have not done either on follow up changes. Your call.
 
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Well, my town of 40,000+ does not have a Honda dealership (2 or 4 wheel versions) and according to the local auto store, they don't carry motorcycle antifreeze. So the only other place left was the Yamaha/Kawasaki dealership. Once there, I asked for silicate-free coolant and he gave me a condescending look. He said their oem fluid probably won't work but showed me a bottle of blue stuff that he said was "really good." He did look it up and it is silicate free, but warned that it cannot be mixed with any other coolant. He acted like if it did there would be terrible consequences...like a gaping hole in the time/space continuum. However, it was $22 for 1/2 a gallon! I wasn't sure how much I needed but didn't want to fork out nearly $50 for a gallon of coolant. He asked why it couldn't use coolant with silicates and wasn't satisfied with my answer that it was not good for a ceramic part inside.

I ended up going to Wally-World and getting the Prestone coolant for all cars...


Will this work? I couldn't find anywhere on the bottle whether it did our did not contain silicates! Hopefully going to replace the thermostat tomorrow (Friday). Thanks again, dc.
 

ibike2havefun

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Found this old thread that may answer for you-- I think you're onto something here.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?113745-1300-coolant-capacity

I too have a thermostat replacement in the near future- the part arrived yesterday. If it wasn't going to be so frigging cold here this weekend it would be a good opportunity but with temps in the single digits to teens and a howling wind on tap for tomorrow I'm not eager to do discretionary work outdoors at the moment. (I have no garage.)
 
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T_C

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The last bottle of Prestone I bought did specifically say Silicate free.

As far as your dealer giving you a condescending look, remember this for the future. They are idiots.

Yes the stuff he was trying to sell you is expensive and can not be mixed with water based products, you need to flush the engine first. Some folks here use it. It has good theory behind it, but is probably overkill for our engines, IMHO.
 
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Ok. AGAIN, THANK YOU ALL. Just when I start to figure out my old bike I have to start over. But it is so much easier to do so since I have access to a group of such knowledgeable folks who are willing to help an ST noob. T-stat change here we go!
 
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