Addressing bad tips on ST-Owners...

Joined
Dec 5, 2014
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Hobbs, NM
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2004 ST1300A
After reading several bad tips (as in tip-overs) I decided to get some rear tip-over bars. (C'mon...That was a little funny). However, the ones I really like (bygdawgs) are just too expensive right now. Eventually I'd like some, but in the meantime I understand I can modify the gl1800 bars. There is a set of chrome ones here on the forum, but I found some on eBay that are black, which I think I like better. Will these work? I understand the mod requires longer bolts, boring bigger holes, and bending the bars a bit...is that correct? Here is a link to the bars I'm looking at...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/321664198289?nav=SEARCH [/URL]
Thanks for the help.
 

Chance

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image.jpgimage.jpgI have had a set on mine for,years and am v ray glad to tell you they're excellent. I used a vice and large hose clamp to pinch them and hold them in the correct configuration for installation. A piece of the originL mount will need to be cut/ground off. You'll be VERY happy with the results and cost savings. They portrude roughly 1" past the saddlebags and appear stock to an untrained eye. They do work as well. Hope this helps!

Chance
 
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v8-7

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I haven't seen black ones before . Makes me think they weren't looking good so someone painted them.

Also $25 for one side sees high .
 
OP
OP
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Hobbs, NM
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2004 ST1300A
They were the only black set I saw. Is it easy to paint chrome? I'd love to paint them as close to the oem blue as possible (without paying the outrageous colorite price).

The other one was $15 (both obo). I was going to offer $30 for both. But if I can paint chrome then my options really open up. Thanks for the reply.
 

Nashcat

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After having my GL1800 crash bars for several months, I finally got them mounted last week. I procrastinated until I finally bought a lift table to make it easier. Get longer screws, drill out the holes, get a couple hose clamps to hold the bars together after squeezing in a vise. On the right side, I had to open the holes toward one side, to get the bars more vertical. The Wing crash bars that I had were not exactly symmetrical.

John



image.jpg
 
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I haven't seen black ones before . Makes me think they weren't looking good so someone painted them.

Also $25 for one side sees high .
The some of the new wings are blacked out, no chrome. Or, they could have come off a F6B. These bikes would have had a trike kit put on more than likely.
 
OP
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Hobbs, NM
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Ok, I picked up a set of these off a forum member and expect them to be in the next few days. In the meantime, does anyone have a suggestion on how to paint them?

What prepping needs to be done to paint chrome? Has anyone had any luck finding blue paint that is similar to the oem Coronado blue?

I don't want to spend more money on paint than I do on the bars, (which would be the case if I ordered from color-rite). Really hoping to find a can of spray paint that is close. Thanks, doug
 

ibike2havefun

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<snip>...Has anyone had any luck finding blue paint that is similar to the oem Coronado blue? </snip>
Depending on how similar "similar" has to be, Rust-Oleum makes a blue that's a couple shades lighter but if you aren't overly picky it might do. I have about 99% of a can left I'd be glad to send you if the mail would take it, but they won't. Instead I can send you the chunk of PVC that I painted with it, making a key extender for the ignition key (which I them snapped off on the very first ride... :( )

Send PM with your mailing address if interested (bearing in mind that I'll be out of pocket until March 1st so if you need it sooner than that I can't help)and I'll send it along when I get back. Then you can decide if it's a close enough match to suit your discerning taste.
 
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Have them sandblast them first.
Sandblasting is messy. You can achieve the same by sanding the bars with fine sandpaper to give the surface some 'tooth' or roughness. Sand lightly, just enough to get the paint to stick. Then use a good primer. Finally, spray the finished color. If you can get a primer close to the finished color, chips won't be so obvious. Paint will not be as durable as powder coating. Hereaoubts, one could probably get both powdercoated for around 25 to 40 bucks.

Be careful installing them. If you have to use clamps on them to make them fit, you will almost certainly damage the painted finish. You might try fitting them first, and bend them in a vise or w clamps first, then paint them. The Bygdawg version says not to pull both bolts out of the bike at the same time. You remove one, put the guard on and screw in the bolt finger tight, then remove and reinstall the second bolt. If you pull both together, the frame slips down and you now need someone to hold the rear of the bike up while you realign the holes. If you do this, make sure you have a BiG friend handy.
 
OP
OP
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Dec 5, 2014
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Hobbs, NM
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2004 ST1300A
Depending on how similar "similar" has to be, Rust-Oleum makes a blue that's a couple shades lighter but if you aren't overly picky it might do. I have about 99% of a can left I'd be glad to send you if the mail would take it, but they won't. Instead I can send you the chunk of PVC that I painted with it, making a key extender for the ignition key (which I them snapped off on the very first ride... :( )

Send PM with your mailing address if interested (bearing in mind that I'll be out of pocket until March 1st so if you need it sooner than that I can't help)and I'll send it along when I get back. Then you can decide if it's a close enough match to suit your discerning taste.
Thank you for the offer. Instead, would you mind getting the color name and/or number off the can? From there I can just run up to the hardware store and grab one.

I'm not expecting a perfect match. The only colors available for tip bars are chrome and black, so nearly any shade of blue (other than sky or baby) will blend in better.

Funny, on my cruiser I wanted chrome everything...now I'm avoiding it!
 
OP
OP
Joined
Dec 5, 2014
Messages
180
Location
Hobbs, NM
Bike
2004 ST1300A
Sandblasting is messy. You can achieve the same by sanding the bars with fine sandpaper to give the surface some 'tooth' or roughness. Sand lightly, just enough to get the paint to stick. Then use a good primer. Finally, spray the finished color. If you can get a primer close to the finished color, chips won't be so obvious. Paint will not be as durable as powder coating. Hereaoubts, one could probably get both powdercoated for around 25 to 40 bucks.

Be careful installing them. If you have to use clamps on them to make them fit, you will almost certainly damage the painted finish. You might try fitting them first, and bend them in a vise or w clamps first, then paint them. The Bygdawg version says not to pull both bolts out of the bike at the same time. You remove one, put the guard on and screw in the bolt finger tight, then remove and reinstall the second bolt. If you pull both together, the frame slips down and you now need someone to hold the rear of the bike up while you realign the holes. If you do this, make sure you have a BiG friend handy.
I have a friend with a sand blasting cabinet...I'm sure he'll give me a tutorial. Otherwise I don't mind attacking it with sandpaper.

When you suggested the powder coating, does that price include the powder? Do they have access to all different colors? I've watched a show on powder coating, but I am not familiar with where to get the powder and how closely it can be matched (I'm not picky, any dark blue would work).

I suppose the advantage of paint is that it can be easily touched up in case the bars were ever put into service. Just grab the half-used can of paint and give it a shot...
 
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